
LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Driver's Thread! V27, all the older sifus went MIA liao :(
LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Driver's Thread! V27, all the older sifus went MIA liao :(
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Nov 16 2014, 09:37 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
270 posts Joined: May 2011 |
just using HDEO for my iswara.
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Nov 18 2014, 02:35 PM
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#2
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270 posts Joined: May 2011 |
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Nov 18 2014, 04:10 PM
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#3
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270 posts Joined: May 2011 |
where I can download the user manual?
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Nov 18 2014, 10:50 PM
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#4
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270 posts Joined: May 2011 |
QUOTE(megadisc @ Nov 18 2014, 08:05 PM) http://bhpetrol.com.my/product-lubricant.htmlyou can simply buy at your nearest BHP station. |
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Nov 21 2014, 11:14 AM
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#5
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270 posts Joined: May 2011 |
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Nov 23 2014, 05:23 PM
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#6
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270 posts Joined: May 2011 |
Proton Iswara 1.3 (4G13) decarbonize engine with water
This post has been edited by langatian: Nov 23 2014, 05:24 PM |
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Nov 28 2014, 12:05 PM
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#7
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270 posts Joined: May 2011 |
my rear defogger not functioning already. Izzit fuse has been burned?
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Nov 28 2014, 03:20 PM
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#8
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270 posts Joined: May 2011 |
QUOTE(Albert B @ Nov 28 2014, 02:16 PM) Possible causes: 1. Not checked yet1. fuse blown (check fuse no.10) 2. switch fault (is the orange LED indicator ON when you press the switch?) 3. wiring (if fuse & switch are OK, you need to check voltage at the demister terminals) 2. Orange indicator not lit. 3. Not checed yet Anyway thanks. |
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Nov 28 2014, 08:29 PM
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#9
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270 posts Joined: May 2011 |
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Nov 29 2014, 06:03 PM
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#10
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270 posts Joined: May 2011 |
QUOTE(Albert B @ Nov 29 2014, 09:59 AM) Did you test with ignition key to ON position (demister works only in this position) ? I already used the rear defogger during raining and its works. Thanks.Do you have a multimeter (volt/amp/resistance) for checking as below? 1. Turn ignition key to ON position press the demister switch to ON. 2. Irrespective of whether the orange LED is lit or not, measure the voltage at the demister terminals on the rear windscreen (because it is possible that the LED is faulty). 3. If there is no voltage, then it is likely the switch is faulty. You could replace this switch, or if you want to confirm you could check as follows: pry out the switch from the instrument cluster panel using a (-) screwdriver, unplug the socket. 4. One of the slots in the socket is the 12 V supply, test all against any nearby chassis earth/ground to confirm one is having 12V. 5. The switch have 4 pins : - 2 are for 12V incoming and out to demister - controlled by this switch, zero ohms or infinity ohms. - 2 are for the LED supply & earth, always have some resistance Measure the resistance across two of the pins in the switch. I can't remember which 2 of the 4 pins, just try all the combinations. There will be 2 pins which will have zero ohms when switch is pressed to ON, and open circuit when at OFF position. 6. If no 2 pins have this ON = zero ohms & OFF = infinite ohms, the switch is confirmed faulty. I had same problem too, but (just for the fun of DIY) I sprayed some carb cleaner fluid inside the switch contacts, rinsed with water, checked again; it was ok, so my demister is working again. |
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