err... how to align. Normally I built the whole thing near complete, or until at least the crane/boom is sturdy enough to stand by itself.
Then with the LA extended 60-100% with the weight of the boom, press in the middle part of the entire LA length and can feel the degree of firmness or wobble. Both should have the same firmness.
If not, dismantle part of it, only rotate the top part of the LA 180 degrees clock/counter-clock wise. Sometimes may need to adjust 1 teeth of the gears connected to the bottom of the LA.

Can align one. Cause the LA are manufactured similiar.
But due to rotate the LA 'head' is always 180 degrees, sometimes it is too much. Therefore, have to adjust single teeth or 1-3 teeth of the tan-gear at the base of the LA.
Need to have dexterity with fingers, else everything pop-out or drop, then have to start align all over again.
But the important point is, both the 20T gear, must be parallel, instead of oppposite facing each another.
I not yet build 42009 ...

ya, tip of finger pain. That's why I keep some tools around:
- philips screwdriver : easier to push axles/pins out, than using another axle. No damage, as long as don't slip.
- thin rubber grip : to pull out bushes, pins, some axles.
- thin-nose plier : if can't with rubber grip, then to pull some bushes/axle-with-stud. Some damage to the external layer, but no choice.
- lego brick remover tool : use to lever / dig out stuff.

8043 I have issue with changing the config (that red stick) from fwd/back movement to digging and vice-versa.
If on rechargeable battery, then 4-6 out of 10 times will stuck (can't engage).
If on full alkaline battery, maybe 1-2 out of 10 times.
Check few times, not sure which part is not align properly. If push with finger, no problem.
In the end, I follow MOC and mod it to use 3 controllers.


Recent busy ... not much time to play. My 8110 still stuck without the tilt-table bed yet.
And not yet get a 9V adapter to cut-cost for battery (and lazy to recharge).

thanks bro
What's with the banana la lol
Name card holder look nice leh!
Definitely a laptop, hazmat suit CMF, sleepy head CMF, a couple of torsos for my own hero MOC and rocker girl (tbc). Today just BL skull mask (from Indiana Jones) damn rare!! [attachmentid=3582552], a couple more cool torsos, guitars and this video camera [attachmentid=3582565] - gonna make ala innocent videographers taping haunted house then kena haunted by ghosts scene. 

Anyway, here's one more to end the night with! cheers!

[attachmentid=3582583]

PF motors drain battery like we drink water

Try and let us know

I haven't try, but I think it will slip out of the finger easily. Maybe can use it as "grip" or several layer when trying to push/align axles.
Sharing is caring

Use test-meter. Get a cheap digital one <RM50. Can check the voltage and mA.
Need to check each individual battery, as well as the full 6x battery pack output.
I think minimum >7.6V to run decently. But for good power, at least 9-10 V

Also, depends on the load factor. 42009 is heavy. The crane is heavy as well. Even heavier load if you try to lift something as light as 200-500g. If it is under tremendous load, the motor will cut-off.

I think a full rechargeable pack (6xAA) can last about 2-3 hours of play time for me.
Alkalines, not sure. Maybe 3-3.5 hours.

The smaller 6x AAA for train-sets, will last shorter for Technic PF motors, about 2 hours for rechargeables.
But for train PF, I think it last slightly longer, about 2-3 hours.

Haha... its like tycoon looking for affordable Ferrari...

Those who finished their 42009 , after lifting up the boom , when I wanna extend the gear starts to grind have to push the gears back in only can extend , did I Pasang wrongly ?

got affordable Ferrari what, most of us here already own them

yeah you can either get that (30148) or this one too (4360) [attachmentid=3584228]

However, if you want a whole 'studio scene' i suggest getting 1351 set. 

[attachmentid=3584229]

So far BL cheapest selling for MYR 134.00 and above (used/brand new set) but Singapore selling incomplete set MYR 77.31 minus the box and mini figures. (store name: minifig_sg)

If you want to go conventional, then get the normal 30089 camera and moc like this. Notice the guns? 

[attachmentid=3584237]

there is a way to do video camera by putting 6 parts together
dunno wat to call these parts also

but for sure need the 1x1 with 3 stud , 2 peices
then something with handle for minifig to hold
then the 1x2 tile decorated with videotape

here is my spiderman holding a variatio, it used to have a 1x1 trans round plate in front for the lense

Read the review at http://www.technicbricks.com/2013/07/tbs-t...e-crane-mk.html part 5 Functionality & Playability

It looks like the outriggers (the 4 support) should use frictionless tan pin instead of the blue friction pin which is plain unnecessary and strain the motor which already at its limit.

hmm clearer picture.. green thingy.. the shaft will bend when the boom is lift up =x, the gears will detached like the one on red, have to push the red gear back to position.. so that the boom can extend.. any idea what did I do wrong X_X
[attachmentid=3584262]
[attachmentid=3584263]

If I'm bringing Studio set in, anyone interested?

MOC ar?

both can be spinned easily, just that the red part always run out of place have to adjust back everytime the boom goes up and down

I can see in the photo there is a very noticeable bend in your black axle. Is it supposed to be like that? I have not build my set but I doubt Lego intend for the axle to be like this in their original design... Better watch out, my daughter broke an axle like this when she was only 3yrs old.

Like someone else mentioned, you seem to have wrongly positioned the yellow technic beam. The black axle should not bend like in the photo. Instead it should be going straight like the photo attached.
[attachmentid=3585051]
[attachmentid=3585053]
[attachmentid=3585054]

If you use non-rechargeables, the depleted batteries are still good enough for other devices like alarm clocks, remote controls (tv, aircond, etc.), and even LED-torchlights. But then, you will have a lot of these batteries, and you can MOC like this:


That is why I opt for re-chargeables, but due to lower voltage, I need to put in 7-8x instead of 6x. Hence, my MOC on battery pack couple of months ago.
Now, I want to use 9V DC adapter, since some of the stuff don't run far, like the excavators.

test-meter can get anywhere, normally I goto Pasar Road, Pudu in KL. Branded one is like Fluke. Yes, those with two cables, normally black and red.

Test meter quite useful, can test many things. AC or DC voltage. from 0.xxx to 1000V, even for cheapo ones.
Can test Amp, Ohm resistance, simple broken cable test, etc. Can use for home electrical also (don't simply plug into the 240V AC if don't know what you want to test)

When motor run slow, I just recharge the whole 6-8x lots of batteries. Quite conclusive on low-batt most of the time.
Very rare I check it often. But sometimes useful to isolate out a single faulty/flat battery, as it can cause the entire battery pack problem.

For general usage around the house and for your toys don't need to get Fluke, the price will make you faint! haha!

Lately I tried a very cheap brand "UNI-T", a digital multimeter cost me RM52. So far so good...

Yeah, don't go poking those probes into 240V AC if you don't know what you're doing!

However, battery voltage is only a general indicator of the battery's state of charge. Voltage cannot tell you the battery's "health status", ie. its ability to store the charge. For that the simple way is to get a smart charger and analyzer, I've been using this brand for many years and I am led to believe it is one of the best around...



Maha PowerEx MH-C9000 Battery Charger and Analyzer

This is sold by Shashinki, a local online seller of photographic gears. Very established and reliable, DSLR kaki will know of them.

LOL ... I don't have Fluke either  been dreaming of owning one, but over-kill. I'm using cheapo China-brand digital test-meter <RM50 only    As long can give me some readings, not for commercial use, is ok already.

Nice, will check out the charger. Bulk-CS anyone ?
You did the homework for him
As I suspected in my earlier reply to him.

Haha! Yeah I also dream of  owning a Fluke but really overkill!

No need to do CS la for the charger, just order direct from Shashinki. Free shipping above RM50.

Their service is pretty good (don't know if it's still the same now), my current charger is actually a replacement. The first one malfunction after a few months, I suspect it was due to my sister's batteries which exploded after I left it to charge overnight. (She was using cheapo batteries) Wrote to Shashinki and they sent me a replacement, no questions asked. I sent the faulty charger back to them at their cost.

This is a very good charger, give it a try. Only thing I miss here is the ability to charge C. D and 9V batteries but since AA and AAA covers most devices I survive so far with those AA to C/D size adapters if ever needed.

Their Maha brand batteries are not bad either, I feel that it is 'stronger' than Eneloops but overall I still love the cool white and colourful Eneloops.

Uber yummy haul!

Pls pm me price of Iron Man polybag, was planning to import but might as well save me the trouble... haha!

And I see Modular Buildings!  
No offense but GP so so only... If you want real battery performance check out Eneloop and Maha. Many more brands out there that are way better than GP...

With GP you get very good performance when the battery is fully charge but that tapers off... With Eneloop the performance is more consistent.

Yes 

You should start using rechargeable batteries starting from today. Do it for the sake of our environment.

With the prices of low self discharge batteries now there is really no advantage in using single use batteries unless you really need the full 1.5V from each batt.

Charger is a one time cost, invest in a good one and you'll be happily charging all batteries from any brands. Don't have to match charger brands with batteries.
You have to invite us to your playground la... such an exclusive club...
You dived into the deep end if this is your first Technic set! lol!  

You can't rush through a Technic build like how you do with regular bricks... Just remember, you NEVER have to apply excessive force when connecting the pins or pieces. If you find yourself doing that and forcing things to come together then something is wrong somewhere and you should stop and check. Also make it a habit to check your build every so often, turn the gears to check for free play etc.

And axle are always going to be straight! lol!  

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2...88930445&type=1

what you all think about this lego casing? this is share by 1 of the BOMers and i have order 3 casing from them

what's the price of a reliable charger like? any particular brand?

my micro haul at LLM today   Don't dare to overspend as kids & my owmed mum around too (jadi "kuai kuai chai" dulu) 




& As for the Star war event....personally, an epic fail.......such a showcase of poor maintenance and "tidak apa" attitude from LLM stafsf manning that area.



Other that hot sunny day, i really(& my kids too) enjoy the whole trips...come back home with sunburned all over !

Generally, Technic and Mindstorm are the most technical Lego sets, hence will take longer time. Even compared to Modular/Creator series.

Except maybe 10179 
This is one of the big question in my mind previously before buying Eneloop, since I have GP charger   

Indeed he dived to the top 10 deepest in technicality.
Yes, everytime put an axle with gears, bushes, must test rotate the axle and it should spin quite freely without friction. Then have to adjust by 0.1-0.2mm but not too much.
One way is to count the empty holes from left-to-right and right-to-left to confirm the correct position.

Yes, axle are always straight. If curve/bend, they will use tube or flexible hose.

If you have past experience on Technic already, I suggest either 9398 or 8110 (older set) for big sets.
42009 is new and will be around for another 2 years for you to save money.

Else, can start with smaller/medium sets like 4200x series (42000, 42004, 42006, 42007, ...)