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 How do I get a turbo system installation, On my KIA Forte?

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jayraptor
post Jul 21 2013, 11:10 PM

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QUOTE(Pete the great @ Jul 20 2013, 05:44 PM)
Hi,

My dad just gave me a second hand Kia Forte for my 20th birthday. I am thinking of fixing a custom turbo system into my car.

1) Can you recommend a workshop specialises in this?
2) Name of the turbo system?
3) Any other additional installations?

Is turbo system:
1) high maintenance?
2) Fuel efficient? - VW's Tsi is very fuel efficient.
3) How much it cost?
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I say not advisable especially the lack of technical experts around locally. Yes, you can install turbo into Forte if you have RM5k. Before you do that, consider this list:
- FC deteriorates, the higher you boost the more thirsty.
- If you got greedy and boost higher, it'll overheat easily and when overheat, it'll crack your intake manifold and could also cause engine blown.
- Those air intake piping they do, do these people know how to calculate pressure in the first place and is it optimum the way the turn here and there? Ori air intake is never made straight by carmakers because it is required to gather enough air before pumping into combustion chamber for efficiency. Only P1 make straight air intake which is totally wrong.
- modified car will end up getting low RV, people tend to avoid modded cars especially the wiring, sensors & ECM not ori anymore. Messed up wiring, not many can help but end up living with it that could even led to easily burnt fuse.
- are they giving you wastegate turbocharger, variable geometry turbocharger or twinscroll turbocharger? Wastegate type turbocharger is prone to turbo lag and make sure you don't do last minute sudden brake (around 2000rpm border) as it'll encourage carbon buildup.

Yes, VW TSI, BMW turbocharged, Pug Turbocharged, etc very fuel efficient because they have Variable Geometry Turbocharger or Twin Scroll Turbocharger that eliminates turbo lag. Also, they have engineers that properly measure the air and picked the best optimum design for the air intake piping so that it could gather enough air giving optimum efficiency in combustion chamber. Most importantly, the air intake piping is made of material not affected by heat and the diameter not that thick compared to what those turbo shops piping offer, yet made of metal some more.

This post has been edited by jayraptor: Jul 21 2013, 11:12 PM
jayraptor
post Jul 22 2013, 11:35 PM

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QUOTE(Nightstalker1993 @ Jul 22 2013, 05:59 AM)
Seriously I'm speechless with all the negativity that surrounds when someone posts asking about bolting on turbo onto their car. Is it that bad? Maybe TS is serious about it and he just needs a point to start. Everybody have to start from somewhere.
1. many shops can do, depends on who you know
2. custom setup where got name bro, you think like japanese car can buy bolt on Greddy kit ka? That one also will cost you 5 figures
3. It's called a turbo KIT for a reason, there's definitely many things that needs to be installed.

1. Not really as long as done right the first time. Maybe just change the oil more often(instead of 7k, change at 5k)
2. depends on your foot. how much fuel you use depends on how much power you use from the engine. if you kaki binary keep boosting then your FC definitely will go down but if you just drive normal, your FC should remain the same or even better than stock.
3. 5k onwards to 5 figures depending on setup.
your concept about cars and how turbocharger system works is totally wrong. Technical experts you can refer to others who had already done it(as can be seen, there ARE turbo'd Forte's running around already), research online what others did overseas, research around BOT users from other cars as well.

- As mentioned previously, FC depends totally on your foot. You take a Golf GTi 2.0 and whack all out touge in genting and watch your fuel burnnnnn
- Usually overheating is not much of a problem, the problem about boosting high boost is whether your engine internals can take it or not. Pistons, conrods, crankshafts etc which is why you see people swapping out their pistons/conrods/crankshafts/gaskets with something stronger if they really go serious into their turbo setup. Intake manifold crack? HAHAHAHAHAHHA!! Exhaust manifold crack ada lah which is either due to shoddy welding during the fabrication of the manifold or your exhaust temps(tuning) is way too high which your pistons will melt first before your manifold will start cracking. And usually people engine blow is due to the head gasket giving way, pistons cracking, conrods or crankshaft snapping, but definitely not manifolds cracking.
- Air intake pipe cannot be straight? You gotta be kidding me. Explain why people go for ITB(Individual Throttle Bodies) then. It's basically sucking air direct from the atmosphere, no bends and whatnot. heres a video with ITB and standoff injectors.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

- A properly done up car can actually get a higher RV than a normal car as long as it's properly done up. If you want you can even remove the kit and demod the car and the car will be as good as stock, plus you can earn back a few grand from selling your turbo kit.
- you know alot of technical jargons like wastegate, twin scroll and VGT but seems like you have zero clue on what those are or even means. All petrol cars running turbos requires a wastegate, be it internal or external. VGT, twin scroll are technologies which improves turbo response and performance. Since all turbo's have wastegates, do explain the relationship between wastegate and turbo lag then and also i'm curious about carbon buildup if i release throttle at the 2000rpm spectrum.

I agree that newer cars comes with new technologies that reduces turbo lag and improves performance but things that comes out from the factory isn't exactly the best. They're designed so that they can be massed produced cheaply and effectively while still able to do it's basic job, albeit not the best. Many forced induction cars(4g93T GSR engine and Preve S4PH-T are good examples) have rubber hoses as their intercooler piping which expands under boost and this expansions robs about 500rpm before full boost comes in which is why many people replace it with stainless steel versions and Samco elbow bends which won't expand under boost. Stock exhaust manifolds are also cast iron. Swapping it out with a custom-made tuned-length 'banana' manifold will increase performance as it enhances exhaust gas flow to the turbo providing faster spool-up. Long story short, not all things that comes out from the factory, designed by 'engineers' are good, there's always space for improvement.
Agree with this statement, i suggest TS to study on how turbo system works first and all the parts needed, at least it will save you face by preventing you asking stupid questions to veterans who knows their shit.
the Forte in the video is an auto and the auto GB robs alot of HP from the car. A Polo TSi may win it, but hey, it's still faster than most NA cars on the road and can easily tapao a Vios.

My 2c to TS is to do your own research and what you do is totally up to you as it's your car anyway. But before you do anyhting, make sure you have enough knowledge on hand and don't regret whatever you have done(unless you've done something really really stupid) As you can see, many of the people here in this forum are just keyboard warriors who knows jackshit about the technical aspects on cars. Long gone is the time where this forum used to discuss technical stuff like cams and engine design, now it's just a place where people compare cars and ask what car to buy with a certain budget.

long post, bye bye

edit: btw, please do NOT get your kit from Xenon. just google up their name and you'll know what i mean.
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Since TS asking for advises whether to get Turbo, you are the devil while I am the angel. Ofcourse, 1 support 1 against. Those custom shops you mentioned, do they even know anything about pressure and air density in the first place? Do they know how to calculate the most optimum flow? Those piping are done with proper measurement or just copy and think got the style means ok. You can set air intake straight but it will not draw the highest volume of air with optimum density before pump into engine. You could draw lots of air but not highest density end up more fuel guzzling.

Excuse me, Forte 2.0 NA will get better FC than turbocharged 2.0L. This is fact. Also, the FC depends on how high the boost. If boosted to 2.4L engine strength professionally by Kia, it'll consume less fuel than 2.4L NA but still higher than 2.0L NA.

When comes to hands of Ah Chong or Ah Meng modify workshop, Lol!! Whatever they do, they are nothing close to what real carmakers could do in reality. Only end up with high FC and more horsepower but less torque. Vios is not made for performance and it is nothing more than a city car. Why take that for comparison?

Do you know what are the function of VGT & Twinscroll Turbochargers in the first place? Ever since these 2 types are introduced, those normal turbo we all know are now labelled as lower level wastegate turbocharger to differentiate clearly from the 2 new toys. What do you know about turbolag?

Pug508 1.6T
output 156ps@6000rpm
torque 240Nm@1400rpm

The turbo activates from 1400rpm onwards. If you think below 1400rpm without turbo assist is lag, that is wrong. Turbolag happens when the turbocharger activated and while operating at 3200rpm and there's sudden deceleration, the pressure from exhaust become low and to allow the turbocharger to continue spinning optimum, the VGT would retract the blades for low pressure mode continue to draw in air. Twinscroll type in BMW has 2 vents, 1 for low pressure and that allows the turbine to keep spinning under similar situation. The older normal wastegate type can't do this.

Talking about maintenance & reliability, do you know those who knows nothing about pressure would end up choking the engine. In long run, wear & tear faster and more often, requiring more cleaning.

This post has been edited by jayraptor: Jul 22 2013, 11:37 PM
jayraptor
post Jul 24 2013, 11:12 PM

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QUOTE(Gouki @ Jul 23 2013, 12:24 AM)
hahahahahahahaha, pls stop making you more looking like a fool lah. i wonder have u ever own and maintain a turbo car your own. (dont tell me mere test drives) do you even ever mod a turbo car? do you ever understand how turbo works? omfg. LMAO! shocking.gif  laugh.gif  doh.gif
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I doubt you know what pressure means and what purpose it serves in combustion engine. You don't know anything don't go and influence others to install turbo without consideration. You'll end up causing him killing the engine early and also causing him dearly should FC goes too high and his car lost resale value. Having wiring messed up could hardly get proper wireman to fix. Most of them can't fix, just to keep the electrical part barely functioning.

Yes, I owned and also maintained proper turbocharged engines and they come together with the SUVs, pickup trucks and cars. They were well made by Engineers that work for R&D in the respective brands, Ford, Hyundai, MMC, Toyota, Pug, etc.

Definitely not any Ah Beng with trial and error background that mod car like they think look like Need For Speed Underground or Fast & Furious means very good. They don't even know what pressure is. All they do, quote you custom ECU + intercooler + self made steel piping with style (not proper pressure calculation), normal wastegate turbocharger (prone to much lag), and have the diagnostic like machine to tell how much to boost. That's all. Nothing else, just tune according to how much the customer wanted. Then change large noisy & polluting exhaust. Final artwork, a car that would need to rev harder to move. Low end torque failed one.


jayraptor
post Jul 25 2013, 12:46 AM

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QUOTE(Gouki @ Jul 25 2013, 12:06 AM)
lol. you and your "pressure" theory. my god. i dont know anything? its funny for you to ask a person with degree holder major in engineering that question. and since when i influence anyone to install bolt-on turbo in their ride in this thread? do not put words into my mouth you idiot. stop acting like you are some pro with your theory jargons based on engineers in those automotive companies. i have workshop owners and friends that are graduates in automotive engineering, ex-professional mechanics in various carmaker companies and trained professionals in car modding and tuning from overseas. stop acting smart but making a fool out of you here.  doh.gif

Jason @ sleepwalker, if you reading this bro, pls look thru all his posts. deserve a holiday. shakehead.gif
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Whatever workshops they open, I have zero confidence on their workmanship, etc. Got degree but lack the machines & tools to do the precision calculation and most importantly, the material required to make proper intake hose will not be able to come up with anything close to carmakers tech & precision.

You are the fool here, stop trapping people with sweet talk that they could tune up their cars without worries. 1 wrong move and that spells the end of his car. Stop using the word 'Beh Tahan". Go to toilet then.
jayraptor
post Jul 26 2013, 10:18 PM

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QUOTE(Gouki @ Jul 25 2013, 12:50 AM)
again i repeat, do not put words into my mouth moron! i never trap or influence anyone to mod or tune up their cars without worries! doh.gif

yea, they have degree, no confidence in their workmanship? dont send your brand new rides to their official service centres then. their workmanship sux too. send your bloody rides oversea back to their HQ in their country to service lar. confirm good workmanship. doh.gif
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Those workshop friends of you have Degree in Automotive, not in material engineering or moulding engineering. They are only limited to whatever aftermarket tools they can get. FYI, they don't have the resources nor ability to mould air intake themselves. They still turn to those shiny metal tubes with so big diameter to replace the ori air intake of their customers.

Example, standard turbocharged variant Pug308THP from carmaker:
output 156ps@6000rpm
torque 240Nm@1400rpm
FC 9km/L

If you have non-turbo Pug308 1.6L NA engine getting 160NM torque fitted with turbocharger with their custom made ECU, piping, exhaust, etc. If you tuned to 156ps, most likely, your torque will not be anywhere close to 240Nm and your FC will not be as good as the 9km/L, yours could end up more fuel guzzling, even heavier.
jayraptor
post Jul 26 2013, 10:23 PM

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QUOTE(Smurf2 @ Jul 26 2013, 03:56 AM)
Sell off your forte i would suggest if you still love your life. I and my cousin already sold off our kia 6at version.
Full of problem.. Really regretted bought this car. My cousin almost flew out from windscreen lucky got safety belt protecting him. His car airbag didnt deployed when involved in accident with a toyota vios. His car front side all gone , leg stucked inside and steering on his body.. Cant imagine how kia designed forte actually. My forte, since bought, the car dashboard full of noise, complaint at SC but still persist.. Then before reached 10k milleage, engine keep dying. One morning suddenly cant start up, towed back to SC, after a month only collect my car. Using less than 20k, engine cant start up again! Really lousy car, i and my cousin really regret bought this korean car.. Should follow parent advise go for japanese cars.. My father toyota camry also never had this problem.. 2008 until now.. About 6 years already. Hope my SA faster deliver my honda city.. Really tired because of this lousy car.. Traded in to used car dealer only worth RM41k.. Used 1 year + only... Biggest regret..
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You can continue to make up story. Fact is, no such complain so far unless some1 go and mess with the wiring like sending to Ah Beng modify workshop. Ever wonder why those local blue taxi companies & Singapore taxi fleet still sticking to Sonata NF that those rival marketing staff kept spreading rumors that they are unreliable? Because the fact is, they are reliable & durable with hassle free low maintenance & descent FC.

Such obsolete old unethical dirty tactic no longer works. Hyundai-Kia reliability & maintenance wise proven. That explains why many going for Koreans nowadays. Not just cars, even construction machinery, handphones, TVs, electrical appliances, etc. are getting common in here and elsewhere.

This post has been edited by jayraptor: Jul 26 2013, 10:24 PM
jayraptor
post Jul 29 2013, 11:55 PM

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QUOTE(OC4/3 @ Jul 28 2013, 02:18 AM)
WTF are you on about
Don't get why your fascination with stock parts??
Regarding stock part vs aftermarket parts,there is shit load of example but here's a few good one:
1.)Stock Conrod-Even stock conrod in legendary turbocharged engine like 4G63,2JZGTE can be bent with right condition(Situation that cause high fatigue) and aftermarket rod like Manley,Carillo is miles ahead
2.)ECU-Stock ECU really is far behind aftermarket ECU usually and can't be tuned so aftermarket ECU is consistently better(As good as your tuner is)
Some example of additional feature would be sophisticated TCS,WOT Shift Cut
With that said,some platform with good programmer do get the ability to modify stock ECU and get additional feature(Think of it as Android ROM flashing)
3.)Turbocharger-Toyota is notoriously known for badly matched turbocharger that is weirdly sized
All i can say,you are just a bit pile of wannabe who like OE parts for no good reason
If you want to preach your OE parts superiority,go away from this forum
For as long as you are here,people like mxsteven,Nightstalker1993 will loathe your presence in this particular sub forum
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What a bunch of modders that think those local modify workshop can come up with proper turbocharger that could generate optimum output, torque & FC? FYI, whatever those local modify workshops can do are limited to whatever custom kits they can bring in and tune from there. The piping are so badly done that they are not even as efficient as what car manufacturer can produce.

You can tune up the car to have more power but do not expect it to be as effective and efficient as those cars that come with turbocharger by default eg. Pug 508 1.6T, Mondeo 2.0T, BMW 2.0T, VW Passat 1.8T, etc. I call these cars that are sold with turbocharger well built with optimum efficiency. Optimum means able to focus on performance as well as FC & maintenance in long run.

Those owners who sent their non-turbo cars with NA engine to fit turbocharger at local modify workshops, those are nothing more than motorsport fun. In reality on FC saving or maintenance wise, they are nothing close to optimum.

Don't talk about Toyota, Honda turbocharger, they are not the best in this. You want to talk about efficient & optimum turbocharger, refer Ford, Pug, VW, BMW, Audi as these carmakers are more advanced in anyway. Japanese made are reliable but when comes to GDI engine, diesel engine, turbocharger/supercharger, NVH, handling and build quality, the conti are still ahead. Japanese made beat conti only in terms of sales, reliability & after sales service. They didn't beat conti in everything.

This post has been edited by jayraptor: Jul 29 2013, 11:56 PM
jayraptor
post Aug 2 2013, 10:26 PM

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QUOTE(izso @ Jul 30 2013, 09:24 AM)
So.. how do you explain AMG, Alpina, TRD, Mugen, AMS and all those aftermarket tuners that make the original car 10x better? You can argue they have support from the manufacturer, but that's about all they have. The manufacturer doesn't support their cars or anything, just the name association.

Efficient as manufacturer? My ancient old Wira (which has a Mitsubishi engine if you don't know) is working better than it did when I first bought it. All modifications were DIY-ed except for machining, that one goes to the ah-chu ah-kao metal shop to do based on my requirements. My FC is better than stock, my base power figures is better than stock and back then even the 3-speed gearbox was still around and doing better than some if not most manual equivalents.

Highest 15km/L, lowest 11km/L with a heavy foot and/or sensible driving. 94whp vs the 80whp stock (mines an auto, so stock should be 74whp thereabouts). Maintenance is exactly the same as stock.

Not turbo charged. And definitely not big on motorsports. I do once in a while but that doesn't affect the car whatsoever.

So are you telling me Mitsubishi were a bunch of fools who couldn't do better than self-taught DIY-er like me? Or are you calling me a liar?
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AMG, Alpina, TRD, Mugen, AMS, etc, they are at least something like licensed modders in cooperation with carmakers. Therefore, these mods are professionally done as they done proper calculation and those air intake, exhaust, etc were done specifically for the make/models that they are made for.

We are talking about those who pull piping and install turbocharger, exhaust on their own here. If they only get 1 or 2 parts from TRD but the piping for air intake and exhaust are made of dunno where they get material, this is where the problem comes.

This is for those who still wanted to argue about ori Lancer GT '07-12 vs Inspira:
None of you bunch can tell the difference on the kerb weight Lancer GT 1385kg
compared to Inspira 16" rim 1335kg while with Inspira 17" rim + bodykit only at 1350kg. THis is not obvious enough on the difference. Stop taking the downgraded GT on website to compare. Who is the troll, you bunch ofcourse that rely so much on website. MMC technical department already hinted where the difference. If you bunch still unhappy and wanted to clarify further, check with MMC technical department. Why so afraid to check with them?

This post has been edited by jayraptor: Aug 2 2013, 10:27 PM
jayraptor
post Aug 7 2013, 08:37 AM

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QUOTE(dreamsquall @ Aug 3 2013, 10:19 AM)
I dont care la wat they hinted, I just wan the 50kg rear metal bar of lgt that u mentioned. Other than tis i'm not interested.
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Conclusion is, the few of you are bunch of idiots that don't understand basic English. The result obviously shows the weight difference between original Lancer GT with heaviest Inspira with larger rim + full bodykit. Despite putting everything in, the Inspira Premium even with 18" Lancer rim, as per K3nnYkl82 could only go max 1360kg. It still can't get anywhere close to Lancer GT kerb weight 1385kg. Is this not good enough for the answer?
jayraptor
post Aug 7 2013, 08:42 AM

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QUOTE(izso @ Aug 3 2013, 08:33 PM)
'Proper calculation'... riiiight. Like how the AMG black SL had so much torque the wheels couldn't handle it and the traction control system went crazy whenever someone floored it in a corner? Pretty good "proper calculation" by AMG.
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Whatever these franchised licensed modders do, the technical part especially the whole intake parts and exhaust parts that they fitted replacing the ori stock carmakers parts, the pressure, the piping, etc are carefully done. Local modshop, if they have the actual spec for modding specific make/model eg. Lancer and get the parts that are meant for modding Lancer, it will not go wrong.

However, those who get few renowned mod parts and do piping, etc, mix around with whatever mod part they can think of, too obsessed with Fast & Furious, that'll end up harming the engine. Customers who done with them are doing at own risk.

 

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