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PC Audio Creative GigaWorks S750 7.1 speaker repair, A short guide and info with pictures...

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golestani
post Mar 11 2017, 10:01 PM

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hey guys , i repaired my own s750 but with a professional engineer and it working only for 2 months ! anyway i was so happy of that but when it was on i hear a sound like explode and my pod lights gets off and blinking power light on the back of the sub-woofer , anyway i open the subwoofer and i saw a IRF740 is exploded ! and 1 of the C60 or C61 was a bit shaking i mean its not well connected to the board anyway i go to a electric repair shop and i ask him to replace the IRF740 and connect the C60 or C69 to the board again , i came home and connect the power board to the IO-Board and amp 1 , amp 2 but guess what still like before i replace the IRF740 and C60 connection repair nothing changed at all so i try to disconnect the AMP 1 and AMP 2 from the power board and then when i disconnect the AMP2 wire from the power board the green light instantly get back and even i can turn on it full , but if i connect the amp2 instantly the power goes off and green power light start blinking !!! i want to know the problem is from AMP board or still maybe there is a problem with the Power board ? because i just want to know if this issue came from the AMP board i will check it again for fault parts but if still maybe there is a problem with power board i will try to change all caps or anything i can again for make sure its not the power board problem , another question can anyone tell me the right voltage in a working fine and stable sub-woofer for AMP board ?
if i know maybe i check the powers first to understand the problem is still because of power board or amp board ,
ty for this topic it will help a lot of people .
and another thing i forgot to mean it after some disconnect and reconnecting again the amp 2 board that cause the power off the C60 get exploded ( only smoke not so much sound ) anyway what kind of the problem is that !?!?! i really feeling disappointed . i waiting for an answer.....
golestani
post Mar 11 2017, 10:11 PM

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QUOTE(asenrzhang @ Feb 17 2017, 02:08 PM)
I can tell the only different is just different connections of those three 0Ω resistors, as you already found it.
With proper modification (the schematics already figure it out), you can make the PSU works on 230V or 110V.
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hey man , ty for ur reply's i read all of them and i have the same problem like the other guy said if he connect the amp board to the power board the green light is blinking and if the amp board disconnected from the power board the green light get back instantly . i hope u answer me or give me some tips i really love s750 setup because its really amazing u won't believe that i use it with my old sound card sound blaster audigy 2 zs with windows 10 64-bit and it sounds lovely !! im waiting for ur answer . u can check my previous reply here ( i mean full detailed problem ) ty
golestani
post Mar 12 2017, 05:23 AM

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QUOTE(asenrzhang @ Mar 11 2017, 09:00 PM)
Again, I'm not a professional engineer, so take the advises at your own risk!

I would like to do this test (let me call it Test Case for AMP Board 2) to identify the source:
disconnect AMP board 1, connect AMP board 2, then power on to see if the back LED blinking or not.
Most blinking LED issues of S750 are caused by bad capacitors.
I say "most", not "all", because when I repair AMP board 2, there's one time, when I try to mount the AMP board 2 back, I leave one screw loosely, very loosely --> this caused back LED blinking too, I guess the screw make a circuit somehow between the back plate and hint sink of AMP board 2.
CN4 & CN5: [1] [2] [3] [4] [5](pin for RED wire)


  • V2to1 should be 70V

  • V4to3 should be -24V

  • V5to3 should be 24V



I don't know. I mean it could be the fault of PSU board, or fault of AMP board 2, or both.
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for the first test yeah , the only way i got green light blinking when i connect amp board 2 its not matter its connected solo or connected with I/O and AMP 1 board , so i think maybe its because of AMP 2 problem but there is nothing to see with the eyes , and again i changed 4 200v 470uf and still 1 of the CAP get very hot if i let it go im sure it will explode again ! and its only happened when i turn on the PSU with POD or remote control ( the only way i can turn the subwoofer on is when i disconnect the AMP2 (( the one with 3 bash IC's )) and when i turn it on the CAP C60 getting hot i mean too much hot in 10 or 20 second and if i dont disconnect the cable from the electric im sure it will explode again like last time it already did !

so i just want to know if u know where this problem cause only for C60 CAP its happening .
still i don't know what is the problem maybe C60 cap didn't connected to the board well and the C60 is the power source of the AMP2 board so if i connect it to the power board , power board will understand the power is on problem or even there is a problem with AMP2 so it won't let u turn on the sub-woofer ! i still don't understand it at all but i won't give up so easy ! after first time i spent about 80 dollar to fix it , it only worked for 2 months and its make me feel so bad sad.gif if my s750 will get back to live again i will get all of the AMP and IO and Power board out of the sub-woofer and i will make a custom box for AMP,etc and just a small wire get into the sub-woofer for the sub-woofer sound , and i will keep the amp and other board cool with a FAN or something else maybe i put it in the freezer smile.gif) but i don't want to lose it again only because of poor design of the amp and power when there is no air coming in and out .
golestani
post Mar 12 2017, 06:34 PM

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QUOTE(asenrzhang @ Mar 12 2017, 11:15 AM)
Let me confirm these information:
(1) You replaced C59 & C60 & C69 & C70
(2) You disconnected AMP 2
(3) You use POD or remote control to power on
(4) Still, you got C60 very hot in seconds (without AMP 2)

And the voltage of your power line is 110V or 220V~240V?

If C60 is the only capacitor which becomes hot, maybe you need to check components in the following picture:
[attachmentid=8583146]
Especially Q2 (IRF740) and D4 (FEP16DT), if Q2 is the one exploded and been replaced in the repair shop, then focus on D4.
If you successfully put PSU & AMP & IO boards to another box, please share your experience. smile.gif such as

  • how to disassemble the bracket without hurt the screws (I try to disassemble the bracket of AMP 2, the screw head is been damaged, but still I can't screw it down)
  • how to fill the hole after disassembled audio IO board -- I mean the part on the back plate.
  • how to drill a small hole for audio line to subwoofer
  • and, the most important thing, how to build the box and put parts in it

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I'm using the 220v~240v for sure .
and yeah only C60 will get hot after I turn on sub with POD
only way POD will get alive is disconnecting the amp board from the power board
and in standby mode I think everything is ok but for sure I have to disconnect amp board to see the lights on pod
and for sure I will check that D4 and see what is going on.
if my set get alive for sure I will share all photos how to do that ,
and for the thing u said about how to fill the hole u make for wires to get into the sub-woofer box its really easy
u just need to use a drill to open a hole as much small as u can then after ur wires get enough into the hole
u can use glue to close the hole I already did it when I got my input power fuse and other par get die !
right now I have no power in socket on the back of the sub-woofer I put him out of the subwoofer and I use a glue and peace of wood to fill the back of the sub-woofer
and as I said if the my s750 gets alive 100% I will make another box for all other parts and put a fan back of the box to get the air get our or get into the box of hot stuffs smile.gif)
I will share them with photos or some parts with video . because its only works for 2 months after professional repair and for sure the problem is hot box because I can't play
my s750 at high volume so it can cool down him self ! and I use it on 2 or 3 lights volume on the pod mostly so sub-woofer can't change the air in the box .
I think they use sub-woofer for changing the air not to bashing around smile.gif) 8" sub-woofer in the box biggrin.gif for ventilation biggrin.gif
but its only works when u constantly play a music with high volume at least 5 green lights on the volume bar on the pod biggrin.gif
golestani
post Mar 12 2017, 06:36 PM

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QUOTE(asenrzhang @ Mar 12 2017, 11:15 AM)
Let me confirm these information:
(1) You replaced C59 & C60 & C69 & C70
(2) You disconnected AMP 2
(3) You use POD or remote control to power on
(4) Still, you got C60 very hot in seconds (without AMP 2)

And the voltage of your power line is 110V or 220V~240V?
I forgot to ask can I use 250V 470uf for C60 cap or they all should be 200v only ?
higher voltage will help or its just not important ?

 

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