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PC Audio Creative GigaWorks S750 7.1 speaker repair, A short guide and info with pictures...

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Shadowdace
post Aug 26 2014, 10:40 PM

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Hi ppl, Hi Lex
First of all, ty for this epic topic, i'm learning alot and mb will have a chance to save my s750 too.
Now here is my trouble:
I've the same typical meltdown aka flashing green light and brown glue of death. I tried to remove it painfully and regulary test it. Obviously I made a short circuit and both of my c40 blown out shocking.gif
Now I'm on my way to change all part Lex recommended but I've a doubt about this c40: Kukruse said It's a 100v cap but his reference links to a 50v cap (in parlist.doc)
I'm already extremely lost in the number of parts and nomenclature, I hope you can help me with this c40 (or an exhaustive list for the whole pack sweat.gif but I can deal with research)
Ty in avance

QUOTE(kukruse @ Jan 23 2014, 04:09 PM)
Hi, lex.
First af all, I am very thankful to you for this thread.
I have also a problem with my S750 set.
One day my S750 did not give the power at all. The main fuse was blown out. But I found also that on both amp.boards C40 were burned out totally - see picture.
Other components seems OK.
[attachmentid=3828560]
So because it was not clear why it happened, I decided to replace all components what were available at the Digi-Key.
Thus most of passive components were replaced - my BOM file is uploaded too. I did not test transistors/power ICs, but visually they were good.
At the final phase when I must to test my S750 I found that I lost my marks about how to connect amp. boards to the IO-board (the board with inputs/outputs) and to the power board.
[attachmentid=3828571]
Maybe somebody here can give me information about that.
[attachmentid=3828559]
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Shadowdace
post Aug 26 2014, 11:41 PM

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QUOTE(lex @ Aug 26 2014, 11:05 PM)

C40? Is that a ceramic disc capacitor? If it is then usually that is 10nF (or 10,000pF) and the recommended voltage rating is usually 1kV since its part of the snubber network around the rectifiers... hmm.gif
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It's the orange one burned here:
user posted image

in the post of Kukruse https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2873671/+80#
Is his partlist.doc looks good to you?

My studies in science and technical engineering are soooo gone cry.gif
Shadowdace
post Aug 27 2014, 09:12 PM

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QUOTE(lex @ Aug 27 2014, 02:02 AM)
This is one of the power amplifier boards, and there are two of them. In fact both of them are identical. You can check the value of the capacitor on the other power amplifier board, in the same location. If that capacitor is in parallel with that big (1000uF 100VDC) electrolytic capacitor next to it, then very likely its a 100nF capacitor with voltage rating of at least 100V (following the big capacitor, can use capacitors with higher voltage rating also). Anyway, that capacitor may not be the only failed component on that board. Possibly that big (1000uF 100VDC) electrolytic capacitor next to it has some problems as well... hmm.gif
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Ok thanks a lot! It should be the FK20X7S2A475K whitch is described as a 100v than the FK20X7S1H475K (50v) witch is on partlist.doc

Btw I'll change every old/bad lytics and glue before re trying. This glue is awfully stuck on board, I'm scared of scratching something...
Shadowdace
post Aug 29 2014, 12:14 AM

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I don't understand very well the condensator's role. The FK20X7S2A475K seems good but it's very difficult to buy. What did I have to check for a new one? Same size and voltage obviously (100V like the big one on the pic) and 4.7 µF like the parlist of Kukruse. Is that all? I don't know the difference betwin ceramic and lytics..
Shadowdace
post Sep 5 2014, 12:31 AM

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Hi Lex
I would be eternally grateful for your help, everything works! thumbup.gif
I actually changed the big cap 450V on C61 and the cap 0.1µF 50V on C63 who are both dead (nothing on multimeter), C62 and C68 (they suffer too much from the proximity of the sink) and obviously I got rid off this glue (one off the most painfull work i've done vmad.gif ). On the amp board I've changed C40 (totally burned out), C39 (sligtly burned by C40), C81 and 91 glued to death...
Still have to replace the five 220µF and the five 100µF but It works!

Btw, I found the same problem I've before: The rear left output is down and I've some kind of cut in sound at higher level (above mid power depend of source) like a saturation. I can live without taking down the neighborhood's trinket but one way down is problematic...

Oh and thanks again for your advice that helped me so much ^^

This post has been edited by Shadowdace: Sep 5 2014, 05:28 AM
Shadowdace
post Sep 6 2014, 04:39 AM

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QUOTE(lex @ Sep 6 2014, 01:49 AM)
Glad it worked. Should give those speakers a new lease of life... wink.gif

Have you cleaned the connectors on the power amplifier boards? Also you may have to clean the audio controller board and the I/O board (where the audio, control pod/dock and speaker connectors are located). Especially the I/O board, which is right under the audio controller board, has lots of degraded glue especially at the connector solder pins. That one is kinda hard to clean and require some proper tools... hmm.gif
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I cleaned everything I could reach: Powerboard of course, degraded glue on both aux board (part brown, part white) and I cut the glue connexion between lytics on audio controller board (which is indeed the one on top with forty capacitor?). Some of the lytics still glued but no short circuit anymore.
Below audio controller, the I/O board contains two massives plates of glue: One top of the jack's enter, the other links the seven dual cable (red&black). This part requires desoldering the CN2 and CN4 line that I'm a bit afraid to do...
user posted image

user posted image

Do you think the soud's cut/saturation could come from C59/60/69/70 (or the 10 caps 220µF and 100µF on amp board) I have not change?

This post has been edited by Shadowdace: Sep 6 2014, 04:46 AM

 

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