wise choice man,

@titan rev... vr4turbo sent his regards... XD

Just to add, it is applicable, weekdays from 2am to 5pm.

Update on my Redline Air filter usage. Good news. My FC improved from 13.45 km/L to 14.15 km/L.

Thank you shaoming90

Driven 50/50 Highway and City.

Hi...
Juz 2clear the usual confusion abt EO suitable 4Gagas...

Pls chk yr User Manual for range of SAE grades suitable...a wide range actually...

As is, xW30 to xW50 are all suitable & within range for our country ambient temp...

xW30? For those who prefer lil bit better FC & faster revs? Less protection 4moving parts tho...

xW50? For those who dun mind slightly higher FC but provides better protection?

xW40? Most SCs use this & most users, too. The middle road.

As in everything in Life, any decision is a compromise...
Yr pref...yr decision...

Enjoy yr Gaga! Most important...

Per tank? FC are controlled from your foot and not the EO.

hi...i am very new to OBD..

What is OBD?
Saga 1.3 FLX Exec (A) can install OBD2?
Where to fix or install OBD?

Kenny

For less than 5 bucks per tank saving? Ya, right.
Most time our car engine is at optimum temperature which is around 90 degrees (according to meter).
How many times do you think that it will be in cold temperature even in those Cameron or Genting area? Few minutes compare to hours that we spend driving like maybe less than 3%. 
And nowadays our EO is in multiviscosity like 5W-40 instead of SAE 40 spec.

To me, the effect is negligible compare to your right foot (and your left foot for manual).
Ya, can try single grade and see. 

30k already cabut...

coolkwc 17K cabut

soon will have tron car mari TT already... Tron r3apers GaGa

Engine oil talk

Fubar20 TitanRev

I know you guys have your idea on how motor oil benefit the car. Here's my piece to chip in despite I'm not particular and have very little knowledge on engine oil. I've been driving several years, changing engine oil almost every 3 month, sometimes twice when I hit 3000 miles too soon. Due to cost of motor oil start increasing, I found I'm paying more and more on the vehicle maintenance, so I start to dig more info from magician. Helping to overhaul engine benefit the most in terms of technical knowledge and understand how motor oil affect engine performance.

Rule of thumb, buy engine oil with API stamp. Here's a link, please download and print a copy put inside your car. The next time when you wanna purchase motor oil, make sure you read the ratings whether its SN/SJ/SM/SL.

http://www.api.org/certifications/engineoi...2010_120210.pdf

With API ratings, you'll get an idea how these engine oil comply to your power unit. Your motor vehicle rely on the chemical inside the motor oil to survive friction. The viscosity only meant very little, but the API rating worth the most. Hence, when you use cap ayam motor oil, despite they put down 10w60, that does not mean the molecule can stand your car's 10.1:1 compressrion ratio with 400'c extreme heat during the ignition. Be it 10w100, it doesn't make any difference when the oil being channeled into the combustion chamber.

However, don't take my word as a whole. The viscosity does yield it's importance. For instance 10w40 multi-visco simply means 10 comes suffixed with W, meaning WINTER(not weight/watt as claim by others) for cold start viscosity. The 40 after W is hot viscosity. The front winter denote has lower figure, meaning the liquid has lower "beku" point. Sorry ran out of vocabulary. The hot visco higher denote a higher boiling point. You don't want oil to boil, just like your mommy cooking in the kitchen.

I've seen many horrible incident's while helping customer to do engine overhauling. Unsurprisingly, most of them having problem with their motor, they tend to miss their oil change quite often, sometimes up to few years did not change oil at all. Before dismantle an engine for overhaul, as I loosen the oil sum nut, I'll be extremely careful to not let oil spill on my hand. These burnt oil can irritate my skin and cause allergy. However, most of the time after the sum nut being pull off, there aren't any oil drip out. Even if there is, very little and very thick. Got once we unable to drain anything out from the sum, because those oil already turned grease. Can imagine how not to jammed the pistons?





Thinner hot viscosity oil does not mean you have less chance building up sludge, infact it's the opposite. Otften I ask magician why not fully synthetic as those expansive oil usually added cleaning agent, can last up to 6000 miles. The answer is simple, recycle the same oil in the engine can only make those oil turn into sludge. Debris and dirt to have more opportunity to form a bigger object between molecule, hence sludge start to build.



I used to worship 76 racing motor oil 10w40 for NASCAR, until my car start to emit white smoke and finally ended up with a full overhaul. Again, I did the overhaul by myself with assistance of magician to find that not much sludge built up, but the piston ring has been fully grounded off. Lesson learned as magician explain, usually racing motor oil does meant for racing. Those oil wouldn't last more than few thousand miles as it degrade faster than normal oil from the market. The dangerous part is, motor oil should form a film of coating on engine parts, but the degraded oil does not. It will be fully drained to the sump. Believe it or not, your engine life were shorten each time you crank start it, not when you taking it to the redline(provided the redline figure is properly balanced on your crankcase).

From the above little knowledge I gained from magician, I've been practicing frequent oil change. For your information, VTEC oil is rated SAE10w30 have no problem running at 8krpm.

i use stop oil,wanna try???once foreman was saying that it looks and feels better than castrol magnatec,ahahhhaa  

ehehehehe,local oil can be gooding also.....  

I was gonna say lucky the dugong driver kacau gary not you. If kacau you he'll be in the hospital / mortuary now