david, the malacca trip is 1 day or stay overnight?

I think the bimmer didn;t have an LSD that's why he can't maintain his "drift" and car didn't have enough power. I saw he do on a wet road. He should have just pump up the air in the tire let the tire lose grip more easy and wonder does he do the clutch kick when he wants to start the "drift".

Mahihi, the bimmer same car with the vid david posted? don't have LSD also...where is the place they all do this?

David nice driving

If you want FF to drift with a nice angle, you need hydraulic handbrakes conventional cable handbrake can't apply sudden lock to the rear wheels. I've tried that driving at 60km/h and yanking the handbrake no lock. I've tried setting the handbrake level and lock level to the closest I can get but still can't. Did this during my secondary school time at a car park near my house. I even broke a few hand brake cables...Hahaha...that;s why a lot of drift cars and some gymkhana drivers they employ hydraulic handbrakes.

Some nice vids of FF drifting. Jap at its best...

A few more FF drift

If owner takes good care of the car ie, on time service, oil changes, parts replaced, wear and tear parts changed. Then I see no problem that the car will have major problems.

David, I need to AC cabin air filter from you. If you have stock on them. Yesterday I open up the cabin filter and wash the plastic net found no cabin filter inside which I believe didn't come with one. Thank you in advance.

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Jul 22 2013, 01:28 PM

BOT needs managements (piggybacks or standalone) IF using stock ECU they need to be reflash by a professional or it has to have a reflash module (COBB) so that parameters can be adjusted after BOT. My fav is COBB , plugs into the OBD port and you can upload the new parameters to the stock ECU from there. Very user friendly and I can download maps created by COBB tuning for my car.

Standalone can totally replace your stock ECU, if budget permits this is the best to go. More of a long term investment. More adjusting parameters and totally tunable from scratch. Signals from ECU is sent directly to the engine's sensors.

Piggyback is cheaper but with limited capabilities. Sufficient for light tuning and BOT you will need extra parts to make the tuning more stable pressure sensor 3 bar and a wideband O2 sensor. Assuming you are planning to go for E-manage.

Hope this helps. For BOT project to last and to be a good one. Parts and tuners are both important. You get what you paid. Also do ask the installer what type of parts is he putting in.

Owner also need to be conservative with your BOT car..don't go gaga like a friend of mine. 1st week of BOT blow his engine because keep upping the boost without using his brain to think.


David, thank you

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Jul 22 2013, 03:04 PM

For the money spent on BOT, it's like a hole that never fill up. car go in and out workshop like go toilet to pee...that's why I would prefer to have 1 NA car then another turbo car. NA has much less that can go wrong on a daily basis....If you want to drive a turbo car on daily basis best is to get those that comes with a turbo...but even that sometimes the factory turbo also give you black face sometimes...

Yesterday I buttseck my own saga. At Aeon shopping mall. A girl was parking behind me keep inching closer to adjust her parking spot but accidentally kiss my butt ( my real butt, not my car butt then I got push forward a bit and kiss my saga butt) that time I was putting stuff into my boot. When she bump me I was shock and like WTF...look back see that girl just give me sorry handsign... and reverse back a bit.