ETC is good to eliminate the initial lag on the throttle respond the FLX has. All DBW suffer throttle lag. Cable has the best throttle feel in my opinion.

IF Proton can offer ECU software update which can reduce the lag time. I think I will go to them instead.

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Jun 11 2013, 01:55 PM

That thread expired already lah mahihi...Hahahahaha

BTW what is Fofi???

Dares, also the Ular Oren thing??? i see many gaga owner here got install...

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Jun 11 2013, 09:07 PM

Thanks dares now I know...

So the Ular Oren thing need to buy from YAB and DIY install...

I also got this bar but I got it FOC...Hahahahaha...lucky draw at a shop


The last image that was for the gear shift panel. I asked before but I was told none available for Saga BLM or FLX....This is a Race Tech product. I'm also in search for short shifter.

David, thank you again for the info. I think I got a old RSM lying in my stock. I need to go find it 1st then see can use or not.

After this will happen...
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/automobil/message/23269

No, tire shop won't give you sign anything. I have purchase A048, KU36,AD07, R888, Federal 595RSR, Ach 123 they didn't tell me sign anything. These are street legal semis so it can be used on the road. Full slick they only sell if you pay DP and confirm order. I've bought a pair of Hoosier for a friend from a tire shop. Need 50% DP and the shop owner tell this these are race tires not street legal but didn't tell me to sign anything la. I believe people who go for semi slick usually already know about the tire only then buy for the average people tire shop won't even recommend to them.

I found that 595RSR, perform very good on both wet and dry on street but the AD07, R888 and A048 performed even better on dry. But to me the worst tires in rain theAD07, R888 and A048. I have a few close call when running on these even at speed of 80km/h. The tires will lost grip even you hit the slightest water puddle.

KU36, performance was ok for me 1 exploded on my drive which was not very fast so I never want back to Ku36 anymore. Side wall was softer than R888 and A048. 595RSR softwall is also on the soft side from what I see on my last touge event in Bukit Putus. The wide wall got road mark even with the PSI at 35 (heated)

I find that 595RSR works very well on light vechiles like hatch and small sedan up to cars like the Silvia but when put on to GTR it struggles to maintain grip this is because of the car weight and perhaps the compound of the tire. When I brought the 595RSR down to the track it behave quite different after a few laps. The performance somewhat drop and it lost grip at corners. I tried lowering the PSI but it only improved so little. So it's a mixed feeling for me, when I told others how RSR perform on track some user say its good but some said not.

ATR sport also have a lot of good review on it. I fitted it on my sister car. Grip was out of my expectation. For the price I pay it was worth every penny, wet and dry there's just grip grip grip. The threadwear is 400 so I assume the compound will be damn hard and needs a lot of warming up to make the tire grip but it didn't I have saw users with thread down to like 40% they still have grip.

The most I like is A048 and R888, these 2 have the best grip on dry and with its hard sidewall but not comfortable for daily drive but it's personal preference. Threadwear on these 2 were very unforgiving my advice if user want to purchase these tires buy another set of rims to fit them on and use them on track days or the occasional Sunday drive. You will be praying a lot like I do if it rains and crawl like turtle.

For street use and the occasional spirited drive, my choice will be these few Parada Spec2, ATR sport, 595RSR, GT Radial Champiro HPY, of the newly launch SX2 from GT Radial also. Japan tires now very expensive.

All the comments is based on my usage and experience on these tires so other people might have a different comment.

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Jun 13 2013, 11:56 AM

ATR sport that time I buy 17inch was around 380/pcs. They only come out with 15 inch size after ATR sport2 launch...Achilles very sui one...new tires they launch big size 1st no small size then when launch the latest the old one got small sie...sei ye....

Corsa Versa? nice name...sounds very italian and like those racing tire...

kenji, Achilles and GT Radial tire can use...Now the Indon tire maker catching up fast....Actually the GT stands for Gajah Tunggal when my friend told me..

Fly apa fly?? the small insect the fly?? Hahahaha

Cannot finish ah? gib to YAB or V12 or me I finish for you...Kakakakaka

GT radial the SX2 for 15 inch price is 2XX. How much you got the Corsa?

V12, just tell them. No I'm not fixing it...just hand itchy mau cabut this and that.....I'm training to be a surgeon mah....

I have been running this MT-01 from HWL for more than a month now so I guess it will be a good time to give some insight on this. I bought this at a bargain price of less than 900 as the shop is shifting to a new store I bargain very hard with the shop owner and I'm happy with the price I got. Then off to my factory for installation (I'm not doing cars just that I have a workshop and tools to do the job) my stock suspension was pretty tall given that I have swap in 15 inch the gap between tires and fender was very wide and there was more roll on the car.

In the beginning I opt for a 8K , 6K spring from the shop owner and brought it home. I was given 1 week of trial if I wanted to change the spring.

I took me 2 hours to setup and install. You need to use back the stock top mount for both front and rear absorber. Learning from my previous bitter experience on lowering (too much). I told myself to maintain the drive shaft close to water level so that the CV joints and the boots won't suffer from excessive angle due to lowering so I went on to set the suspension to a lowering of rear 2.5 fingers and front 3 fingers gap. This retain the daily drivablility of the car and take into account the gazillion of speed bumps we have. With this setup I can clear every speed bump just like a normal car no need to go side ways or scare hit the chassis.

After 2 days of driving with 8K,6K setting it was a very damn poor choice. The ride was totally HARSH to the bone, then it struck me that the gaga is not a very heavy car so 8,6K setting will perform very nice on track but not on street. For the 2 days, I went up and down every road I can imagine, housing area, trunk road, highway..etc...ride was just HARSH any sane passenger will curse me until the sun goes down. Driving feel and stability was good on flat roads and flat corners but not when I hit those yellow line, road gap, repaved gap. The car just lost it stability. I put the car back on jacks took out and spring and went to swap for a 6,4k setting which is the preset spring that came with the MT-01. (double job for me, because trying to be a white rat) Another 2 hours spent on putting this back. The 1st thing I notice when I change the spring for the back from 6 to 4 the 4K spring is shorter so I needed to readjust my height collar for the rear.

Out for a test drive, this time the car is more humane and forgiving when it comes to bumps and gaps. The rear won't hop over those uneven surface anymore and will go through them but the rebound was a bit too quick but I get used to that after more driving test. The tail now follow through nicely on turns. Then next day was ZTH TTA..A good place to test out the suspension. The 1st thing I notice is how the car will turn in when it comes to a corner, previously when I turn the steering the car will roll a bit then turn but now it's gone. The moment I give input to the steering the car will turn in without roll the back was a lil on the soft side and I can feel the roll at the back but still managable. With this installed I've told myself that the tires will be wearing off faster due to the harder setting but over 1 month now my tires are still good. The car now has a very nippy handling and quick steering response from sudden steering input. A few times I tried avoiding cars that turnnig out of the junction without stopping on my stock suspension I have to give more input to the steering to get the angle of turn I needed to avoid but now I don't have to input too much which is good in case of wet road condition so that the car won't risk loosing control.

A difference between the rear installation of HWL and GAB is that HWL has it's shocks and spring made into a single unit. Instead of spring and shocks. I don't know the real reason for this but I'm still searching around for answer.

Comfort wise, it differs from person to person, for me I'm used to it already. I can feel every bump from the road through my steering. The reason I opt for HWL is because it can be service, been in the market for a long time, bargain price, I got a local shop here who has Top Perfect guy coming down to do service and shorter time while GAB I have to give it to the shop and they send it to KL to repair.

Before deciding on HWL, I have made some calls and look around for sport spring. I've look at GAB SS but this were made according to Savvy spec so they are prone to sagging if put on saga (my cousin's saga the best example) I also went to Rosli Smart what they do is drain out the stock absorber oil and inject a different oil to make it harder old school way, I also make inquiries on ProRide but the seller never ever reply my e-mail.

The HWL MT-01 is not the PERFECT adjustable I would say, there are still some areas that I hope it can be better like the rebound rate but overall it's worth my penny. I'm still doing on going evaluation on this suspension.

Just a note though, Adjustable is not for everyone so you need to look around before you decide what you want. To some sport spring is enough but to some it's not enough.

Just my 2 kupang.

The uncle next door to me also everyday open bonnet after come back and stand there look here look there. I also ask him "uncle, car got problem?" He said car very hot need to open boot to let it breath and cool down.

leaking only serbis.....

Mahihi, don't scare me leh...I DIY pasang only...the screw will patah??

Just a note to those who plan to DIY install the absorber, The bracket to hole the brake line coupling need to use air grinder to grind a bit then only fit.

double post

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Jun 13 2013, 06:51 PM

Any idea how to solve this problem? If welding weld where??

Mahihi, I saw the thread is inside the trailing arm come to think of it If I weld that thing it won't solve the problem right? because the fragile part is the bolt that locks the absorber arm or the whol thread tube that runs into the trailing arm? You can refer to my picture and maybe got other picture with clearer one. I spent the night inspection and finding the place to weld but it struck me that the place that have the most stress will be the main bolt that lock into the trailing arm. If it would snap is the bolt that will snap because absorber resisting the upwards motion and the trailing arm is trying to move upwards. Logically speaking it should be the bolt that take the most stress.

I also thought up an idea yesterday, For safety, Maybe I can get some used spring cut into half or cut away just 1/4 then use cable ties (lots of them to secure the spring to the original spring seat and cable tie a rubber stopper on top of the cut spring to avoid the car from bottoming out IF the blot snap. What do you think?


Thanks for the correction but maybe due to the common words people use on these tires we called it semi slick. If Malaysian seldom people use mention tire saying UHP or EHP etc....

SV= Super VTec??

Niama, DNS MCB.....need to talk like that meh that foolfc or what ever...I also got other cars but I also drive Proton then I'm a poor fag also lah? M*H*i!!

Not to found fault with you but I have to disagree that Dugong quality is better maybe a bit tad better only. I used to work for Toyota Service Center and KIA also.

Quality of the Toyota cars to me has decrease a lot it's really so so only. I have owners complaining to me windscreen rattling noise from a 1 week old Vios, Power steering hose came loose before even 1st service (whole PS fluid leak dry), rear absorber not properly tighten Avanza lucky owner came in early when he complain got large sound from rear when going over uneven roads. Rear brake jam on a new car...etc...I've even open up a 2 weeks old Camry whole dashboard assembly because the AC system got sound inside the blower. That's why I've move away from Toyota ever since my neighbour before he change to a Vios I told him you better think again. But he still went for the Vios Dugong....he got the car then less than 1 month I saw him checking and move in and out of his Vios he told me the rear got sound send to service center also cannot rectify. Then another time he complain again front got sound.

Also the way the SC staff rectify problem is also sometimes not very professional. I won't spill out the details here because after kena sue then I die loh....what I see I see...up to personal choice to buy any brand of car.

To me I see that Proton has improved although it might still be under our expectation. Perodua on the other hand I also owned a MyVi before. Quality also have problems, I changed my steering rack twice in 1 year. Front headlights started to have crack line after 1 year. Head Unit rosak 3 times.

I've also seen a lady complains so furiously to the SA about her CT200h QC when I was in the service center when I send my Lexus there for service.

So any car also have QC problems not just the cheap cars...even expensive cars also have one. Even R35 have problems, MFD sot sot when the mileage was only 25k. Need to fork out a hefty sump to change it.

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Jun 17 2013, 03:08 PM