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Photography Canon EOS Family, One Big EOS Family - V56, The White Paladins' Territory!

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mingyuyu
post Jul 14 2013, 07:06 PM

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QUOTE(goldfries @ Jul 14 2013, 03:55 PM)
Canon camera noise control already good for past 3 - 4 years.

70D is likely to show slight improvement but not to the extent of what a 6D / 5D3 can do.
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I shoot in high ISO quite frequently and found that the old 18mp sensor kinda struggles above ISO800.
mingyuyu
post Jul 14 2013, 10:07 PM

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U using MKIII for that shot right?
mingyuyu
post Jul 14 2013, 11:09 PM

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QUOTE(alexlimco @ Jul 14 2013, 10:38 PM)
Yes but I believe that the quality from the 70D would not be far behind.
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Still yet to see, but I am hoping it will be much better than the 18mp one. micro 4/3 can already get on par with the older sensor, so Canon must release a new crop sensor that is good enough.
mingyuyu
post Jul 15 2013, 07:33 PM

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QUOTE(thelightside @ Jul 15 2013, 03:06 PM)
I would say two things about 70d noise at compared to 1d,5d.... first as everybody noted its  sensor size as compared to ff traditionally bigger sensor will always have the advantage when compared to crop of the same generation...but the 70d have a new gen of sensor maybe? but because of my second point if canon makes the 70d MUCH superior to the 1dx/c,5d3,6d  in term of noise and with the good focus the 70d it MIGHT eat in to some of the sales for the higher end model so I'm afraid canon will not do that...of cause this is all my opinion so let's wait and see lah...
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They say the m4/3 has limitation in terms of noise performance, but look at the OMD and GH3, noise is quite on par with canon old 18mp, if not better than it by a bit.
mingyuyu
post Jul 15 2013, 09:33 PM

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QUOTE(goldfries @ Jul 15 2013, 08:48 PM)
you guys expecting too much. APS-C is APS-C.

It will never give you FF type of noise control. It will always be a stop or 2 behind.

Question is whether you pixel peep to see the difference. smile.gif
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Not comparing it with FF la, but m4/3 with smaller sensor (quite a bit) can get better than APSC on canon, then it proved that Canon APSC sensor still have a long way to go, just that it depends on Canon to improve or not.
mingyuyu
post Jul 18 2013, 06:35 PM

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QUOTE(goldfries @ Jul 18 2013, 06:25 PM)
ahhh now that's the key.

No wonder I don't see it, my exposures don't go off by that many stop, that's insane.
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there is noise at iso 100 too on Canon, and if you pull the shadows, even at iso 100 the noise will get quite obvious.
mingyuyu
post Jul 18 2013, 06:48 PM

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huh?
user posted image
mingyuyu
post Jul 18 2013, 07:17 PM

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QUOTE(goldfries @ Jul 18 2013, 06:56 PM)
[attachmentid=3541682]

ISO 2500. Pull shadow bar to max. Donno whether if it's same as your LR shadow bar to 100%.
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Is the effect really that obvious on your picture?

The landscape I posted the area was almost pitch black before pulling out the shadows. And not only in that picture, I noticed the same amount of color noise on other pictures too when using a bigger amount of pulling.
mingyuyu
post Jul 18 2013, 07:46 PM

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QUOTE(alexlimco @ Jul 18 2013, 07:23 PM)
If the area is pitch black then it's way under exposed already. That's why I always check exposure on shadows, midtones and highlights first. If the difference between shadows and highlights is more than 3 stops then it's time to use filters or bracket your shots.
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But sometimes the condition don't really allow you to use filter or you don't have a filter, the same thing with bracketing shots.

Is there anyway to merge multiple exposures into one RAW file in computer?
mingyuyu
post Jul 18 2013, 09:14 PM

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QUOTE(alexlimco @ Jul 18 2013, 07:55 PM)
U can always stack them in PS and use layer mask to merge it or merge all the files as a 32 bits TIFF to edit in Lightroom.
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Editing the TIFF files and JPEG files have big difference?
mingyuyu
post Jul 19 2013, 05:46 PM

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QUOTE(alexlimco @ Jul 18 2013, 09:35 PM)
JPEG are useless to edit. Learn to shoot in RAW and then process them in PS or LR before exporting them as JPG.
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I shoot RAW since I realized how good it was, but you can't do any layerings/brushings in LR, only adjustment brush which is quite limited imo considering you can't make separate of accurate selections as in PS.

Another question, is it better to shoot at higher ISO but correct exposed of lower ISO with slightly underexposed when in dark situation?
mingyuyu
post Jul 19 2013, 07:17 PM

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QUOTE(goldfries @ Jul 19 2013, 06:08 PM)
ISO 1600 | 1/200

vs

ISO 800 | 1/80

like that?

normally I just set ISO first, then decide on shutter speed.

but if shutter speed is too low then only fix shutter speed then ISO.
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how about shooting maybe 1 stop or 1/3 stop underexposed with lower ISO then pull back in LR?

Will the original image with higher iso be noisier or the one underexposed?
mingyuyu
post Jul 21 2013, 03:58 PM

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user posted image
flower 2 by tuna97, on Flickr

why this thread so quiet? tongue.gif
mingyuyu
post Jul 21 2013, 08:50 PM

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QUOTE(alexlimco @ Jul 21 2013, 06:00 PM)
Indeed this thread has a tendency to slow down and then pick up momentum only to slow down again. smile.gif

[attachmentid=3546481]
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Needs moar gear talk! mad.gif
mingyuyu
post Jul 24 2013, 06:28 PM

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QUOTE(kon @ Jul 24 2013, 06:09 PM)
I was thinking of pre-ordering this lens but I decided to hold my purchase to see how the 1st batch of lenses fair.. I'm always skeptical about the QC for 3rd party lenses

Sample pictures from pre-production copies were very impressive though. Given a choice, would you guys get this lens or a 2nd hand Canon 17-55 IS?
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Reviews say that it was even sharper than the 17-55. They both aren't quite the same thing though imo, with the 17-55, u get 1mm wider and 20mm more zoom, and also IS.

But with the Sigma, it's like having a zoom lens that merged multiple of prime lenses ( lets say 24mm f1.8 and 35mm f1.8).

If I were you, I would go for the Sigma.
mingyuyu
post Jul 24 2013, 11:29 PM

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QUOTE(goldfries @ Jul 24 2013, 07:06 PM)
question is - how much sharpness is sufficient for one?

to me, I've no sharpness issue with every lens i have. not picky on sharpness either.

i place very high emphasis on other factors like focusing speed, focusing accuracy and image stabilization.

Sigma 18-35 f1.8 is interesting but I wouldn't spend RM 3k on lens that I can't do handheld video, nor without image stabilization when I'm taking photos at areas with lesser light.

Yes, I am pampered by the IS on my 15-85, and the wide. The only now the only thing that can convince me to change is a 15-85 f2.8 IS. tongue.gif

So far this is only possible alternative is found on a full-frame set, FF body with Tamron 24-70 f2.8 VC USD.
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The IS part is same with the f2.8 VS f4 IS thingy, you can choose to go for a faster shutter speed, or slower shutter speed with stabilization.

For me I will for for the faster shutter speed, as IS is useless when shooting moving subjects, and I think for a lens this wide, unless it is really low right, you hardly require IS for normal shooting from the 18-35 range.

Still, everyone has different opinion, each to their own.
mingyuyu
post Jul 25 2013, 02:24 PM

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QUOTE(goldfries @ Jul 25 2013, 03:37 AM)
1. IS useless for moving subjects? try panning a speeding car, a bird in flight or a child running across the field. smile.gif

2. the f2.8 vs f4 IS discussion never ends because they have their pros and cons but if you look at the discussion above - we're talking about 17-55 f2.8 IS and Tamron 24-70 f2.8 VC.

the discussion never ends when the aperture is the same but when aperture is the same - IS wins.

3. 18-35 is not required but it's super helpful. that's why there are many lenses that range with IS. The only one without IS is the EF 24-70 f2.8, which I believe the IS version will come in the future.

4. what is normal shooting? if normal shooting then f1.8 also not required. tongue.gif
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for point 1, I forgot to add in "moving subjects in low light".

for point 3, you need to see, it's a f1.8 lens, not a f2.8, comparing it to normal f1.8 primes would be more fair imo, none of those f1.8 primes have IS i think?

point 4, i mean like normal snapshot kind of shooting, when you can take your time and hold your camera steadily without a lot of motion going on.
mingyuyu
post Jul 25 2013, 02:32 PM

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QUOTE(goldfries @ Jul 25 2013, 12:55 PM)
color nowadays subjective. even if the lens' reproduction isn't good, color profile is there. stuff like CA? Software fix. biggrin.gif

but usually photos people don't care so much of sharpness and slight blur. they WILL complain if "eh my photo no in there wan?"

the most dreaded one is when the one paying the photography fee is not in there. haha. well there are cases like that.

I hope that with Tamron's 24-70 VC USD, Canon will price the lenses down a bit. the introduction of Canon 24-70 F4 IS left a bad taste in people's mouth, although the lens is actually very good.

2 problem
- price
- f4
It has macro feature but very few people can't justify paying a premium over the already good 24-105 F4 L just to get shorter range, smaller lens and macro ability.
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had the same thought when i saw the 24-70 f4 IS, i thought it was going to be priced around 2.5k-3k range as compared to the 24-105, but man, the price was crazy.

is it only me but new canon lenses seem to have a lot higher price tag compared to before?
mingyuyu
post Jul 25 2013, 04:31 PM

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QUOTE(ifer @ Jul 25 2013, 03:45 PM)
colour rendition as in how '3D look' you photos have. err, i hope you guys know what i am talking about. try shooting portrait with 70-200 L, then 100 macro L, then the carl zeiss 100 macro
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is it something related to MicroContrast thingy? i read somewhere that the Zeiss lens has this special "effect", not really understand what it is though.
mingyuyu
post Jul 25 2013, 07:45 PM

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QUOTE(goldfries @ Jul 25 2013, 05:23 PM)
sweat.gif it's a zoom lens. how would it be more fair to compare with primes just because of aperture?

a zoom is always compared to a zoom.

yes, no doubt that 18-35 is like getting 18mm, 24mm, 28mm, 30mm and 35mm f1.8 prime all in one. tongue.gif

anyway f1.8 is about 1.33 stop brighter than f2.8.

if it's going to be good enough for f1.8 usually it's good enough for f2.8, and it it's bad for f2.8 then it's usually quite bad for the f1.8.

there are very few occasions where that 1.3-stop makes a lot of difference.

for me, I see the 18-35 f1.8 is great if you're shooting in daylight (maybe need to put a stopper for some scenes) and you're shooting photo only, or video on tripod, slider, stabilizer

handheld video, nope. handheld photo of a dark scene - nope.

for example, just want to handheld a scene of KL skyline.

if the setting was f/1.8 | ISO 800 | 1/200
the setting for the 17-55 f2.8 with 3-stop IS can go as low as f/2.8 | ISO 800 | 1/25 for better ambient light (and motion trail).

either way no lens is a wrong lens but it's only wrong when it doesn't suit your purpose. smile.gif so take note of the points mentioned on the 18-35 f1.8
RM 2.5k for non-serious shooting. costly oh.
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arr.... i think i used my words wrongly again. ignore the snapshooting part, i said the line below because for some people and in some situation, you don't really need IS, you just want it for extra convinience

"when you can take your time and hold your camera steadily without a lot of motion going on"



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