Tengkiu

Already pulled out the centre dash yesterday, in fact now I''m dribing around with a huge gaping hole and the centre console missing besides the air cond controls

Yes the metal clips were very tight. but managed to pull out in the end. My fingers were quite sore after that though I hope the side air cond vents are easier.

There are three distinct sections of the drivetrain in a manual tranny car:

1. Engine to clutch

2. Clutch to lay shaft of gearbox

3. Output shaft of gearbox (driven by lay shaft) to driving wheels

Sections 2 and 3 are linked via the dog clutches (nothing to do with the main clutch controlled by your left pedal) of each gear. So when you are sitting parked with the engine idling in neutral, the engine is driving sections 1 & 2 but not 3, because none of the dog clutches are engaged. Then when you step on the clutch, section 2 will continue to spin under its own momentum until friction slows it down (or if you attempt to shift into any gear). Then only section 1 will be spinning.

The whole idea of LC2K is to synchronise section 2 with the speed of section 3 to enable easier shifting and preventing wear and tear on the synchros. I'll use shifting from 5th to 3rd as an example.

Single Clutch steps: You're driving in 5th gear, and you want to downshift to third.

1. Release throttle and step on the clutch. This disengages section 1 from section 2 and 3.

2. Move the lever from 5th to neutral. Disengaging gear when the clutch is disengaged is easy and doesn't cause wear to the gearbox.

3. Shift from neutral to 3rd. When you attempt to shift into 3rd gear, the speed between the 3rd gear + output shaft (section 3) and the lay shaft (section 2, spinning under its own momentum, because the clutch is disengaged) is different, so the dog clutches won't engage. That's where the synchros come in. As you push the gear lever into 3rd, the synchros engage gradually, and cause section 2 to spin faster until it matches the speed of the section 3, then only can you engage the 3rd gear's dog clutch.

4. But now section 1 is slower than sections 2 and 3 (spinning together, because you've already engaged 3rd), because you've released the throttle so you need to step on the accelerator, rev match and...

5. Release clutch for a smooth gear change.

Compare this with LC2K:

1. Release throttle and step on the clutch.

2. Move the lever from 5th to neutral.

3. Here's the difference. Release the clutch, so that sections 1 and 2 are engaged and spinning together. As you are in neutral, section 3 is still spinning independently from sections 1 & 2.

4. Rev match so that the speed of sections 1 and 2 and matches with section 3.

5. Now all three sections are spinning at the same speed. Step on the clutch, this disconnects sections 1 & 2. Because sections 2 & 3 are now matched and synchronised, it's easy to move the gear lever into 3rd, there won't be much resistance as the synchros don't have to spin up section 2 as in step 3 in the single clutch shift.

6. The instant the 3rd gear's dog clutch is engaged, release the clutch.

There may be an extra step involved but this downshift (if done correctly) will be noticeably smoother than a single clutch downshift and you've saved wear and tear on your synchros.

Have you ever experienced difficulty engaging gears even though your clutch is pushed all the way to the floor? That's why you need LC2K. It's not strictly necessary in a gearbox with synchros, but it's good for the gearbox and makes driving a bit more enjoyable, even more so if your rev match in step 4 is done via heel and toe.

That's done AFTER first de-clutch, before the second de-clutch, while in neutral. The second de-clutch is merely to engage the 3rd gear's dog clutch, in fact I suspect that if step 4 is done perfectly you wouldn't even need to step on the clutch to shift into 3rd gear. Though I'm not brave enough to try clutchless shifting

Anyway, I think the gist of it is:

Single clutch downshift - engine rev match done manually via throttle, internal gearbox rev match (between sections 1 and 2) done separately via synchros

LC2K downshift - both engine rev match AND internal gearbox rev match done manually, together

This post has been edited by lhwj: May 3 2013, 05:38 PM

Korek

48 houses along my road, and my Gaga is the only one

VW is especially popular with my neighbours, the one diagonally opposite has a Golf GTi, my right side neighbour has a new Beetle and a Passat CC while two doors to my left there's a previous gen Beetle and a Golf GTi. There are various other Golfs further away.

This post has been edited by lhwj: May 5 2013, 09:23 PM

To: iska

From: davidke20

That's very dangerous Sometimes you need to floor the throttle in an emergency to avoid an accident. Especially while on single lane trunk roads, while overtaking you need all available power from the engine.

What if the wood dislodges and goes under the brake pedal?

This post has been edited by lhwj: May 13 2013, 10:41 AM

My bolts are installed the other way round, bolt in passenger compartment, nut and washer in the boot

The two bolts at the bottom is just another reinforcement point.

Same here. I don't slow down for bumps especially going uphill

Hu sey ayam Cainis? Ayam Mahresian yiu noe

I still haven't gotten the chance to test a CVT on an uphill climb

You're right, the orientation of the bolt shouldn't make a difference. But there's the black plastic sheet which prevents you from reaching the nut properly if your nut is facing the passenger compartment? And the excess end of the bolt could puncture the back of your seat?

This post has been edited by lhwj: May 13 2013, 03:12 PM

Next taim wen ayam kambing KL for TT ayam gonna test drib the first FLX CVT I see

Use wrench with a longer handle. Also, better use close socket wrench instead of open wrench.

Meh, I just chuck them underneath with the spare tyre

Quite of us here have the same thing. No it's 3Max, free installation at factory. Doesn't take up boot space unlike the UR one.

Waiting to try this for my 60k service either this or next week.




Attached thumbnail(s)

Read this tered

The lights directly below the turn indicators.

Was a random image taken from Google. Daddy's putting it up for sale

This car has absolutely no soundproofing Either blast your radio loud or go all out and install insuflex everywhere

CVT can be more efficient than manual because:

1. The engine can always be revving at the most efficient speed, while for fixed ratio gearboxes the engine typically doesn't stay in the efficient powerband a lot of the time.

2. There is no interruption while accelerating. Even the fastest manual shifters will still have a spilt second when the engine is not driving the wheels between shifts.

3. If you drive a manual properly, you would rev match a lot. Pressing the throttle in neutral or with the clutch disengaged is just wasting fuel.

There are some points for manual driving:

- When accelerating, if you are too slow you waste fuel by not covering ground fast enough, too fast and you also waste fuel by spraying an unnecessarily rich mixture which does not translate into acceleration. I believe there are two different ways which people feel the throttle, first is press to a fixed point immediately and wait for the revs to catch up, the second is to gently ease up the revs while pressing the pedal. The latter is definitely more efficient. Change up when you feel the engine has reached its sweet spot.

- When to shift up? I personally don't think there's a fixed point such as 2,000 RPM. It depends on the traffic situation and road condition. For example if traffic is moving slowly then I shift up really early, by 40 km/h I'm already in 4th gear (gentle acceleration) (bear in mind your Getrag has taller ratios than my Aichi Pockai). If it's an open road ahead then I tend to drag gears a little longer, because if I shift too early, the engine will be well below the efficient torque band, which brings us to the next point...

- Use the correct gear for the correct condition. Ever ridden a multi-speed bicycle? Your car engine feels exactly the same as when you're pedaling a bike. I think people who have spent a lot of time cycling are more efficient manual drivers as they understand the principles of gearing. The first thing to know is that lower RPM does not necessarily mean better efficiency. The low RPM = efficient rule only applies if you're cruising at a constant speed or accelerating *very* gently on flat ground or going downhill. For going uphill, you probably already know that you need to rev higher by using a lower ratio. For example, climbing up a moderate slope at 40 km/h in 4th gear which on my gearbox will give me about 2,000 RPM. With that ratio, you probably have to open the throttle quite a bit to maintain that speed, so a lot of fuel is pumped into the engine but the ratio is too high and you may feel the engine struggle to maintain that speed. However if you climb the same slope at 40 km/h but in 3rd gear, your revs will be closer to 3,000 RPM and you don't have to open the throttle as much as you did in 4th gear, so it's actually more efficient even though your engine revs are higher.

Also other points regardless of gearbox:

- Anticipate the traffic in front of you. Look beyond the car directly in front and observe the traffic flow. My favourite way to measure how well you do this is to watch the brake lights of the car in front and count how many times they brake compared to how many times you brake. I find that generally, for every 5 or 6 times the car in front brakes, I only brake once. Remember that braking converts your car kinetic energy into heat and every time you brake, you have to accelerate and burn fuel to regain your speed. Therefore a driver who brakes minimally is an efficient driver. You must use your brakes when necessary, such as coming to a stop but generally, drive in a manner which minimises braking. In heavy traffic, accelerate gently. Don't attempt to block vehicles cutting in front of you. If you see a red light in front, lift off the throttle and coast.

- The most efficient cruising speed is around 80-90 km/h. Any faster and your engine will be wasting power unnecessarily on overcoming drag from air resistance. Following this rule I managed to hit 546 km on about 34L, gogoman86 who has done 600+ km on a tank will probably tell you the same too.

- If your time is flexible, avoid traffic jams. It's a 20 km drive to office for me every day. In the mornings if I leave at 7 or 8 am, it takes an hour to get to office. However after 9 am the time is reduced to less than half an hour. As for coming home, the earliest time I leave office is 7 pm, because before that various places will be congested. I can leave at about 6+, but I choose to stay to 7+ just to beat the jam.

- Watch the air cond thermostat. The colder your setting, the more often the compressor has to run and more fuel will be burnt. For me, the warmest temperature and blower speed 1 will suffice at night and early morning, during mid-day blower speed 2 and thermostat somewhere in the middle. Also I wait for the engine to warm up first by driving a few kilometres before turning the air-cond. The engine is thirsty when cold and there's no need to add additional load then.

- Generally engine oil has negligible difference on consumption. Been on 15w50 from new until 50,000 km, then switched to 10w30 but I don't think that has improved my consumption. My previous 546 km on a tank and also 20 km/L achieved on a midnight run with davidke20 were on 15w50.

- There's only a certain amount you can do to improve your consumption. When I lived in PJ I could consistently hit below 8L/100 km and get 400-450 km a tank (sometimes more, especially with trips to KLIA), however here in Penang I normally get about 8-8.5L/100km due traffic lights every few hundred metres. I've tried really hard, following all the points mentioned above and going as far as switching off the engine at traffic lights (manual stop-start) but it's still very hard to get below 8L/100 km on this Island. The Campro engine is thirsty by nature and initially available only with poor gearbox choices, but now with the CVT and Getrag manual you guys are better off than us stuck with the older gearbox. So don't feel overly frustrated if your figures are not looking good, apply all the points above and if you're really fed up, sell the Gaga and buy a BiBa / Mirage / secondhand Sawi.

- If you haven't already done so, go sign up for an account at www.fuelly.com so that you can log and analyse your consumption over time.