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 Cycling V6 - Cycling season begins, General talks on Racing/road bikes

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yolk
post Apr 23 2013, 12:18 PM

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wahhhh already v6 ... reporting in as well biggrin.gif
yolk
post Apr 23 2013, 12:32 PM

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Have recently gone for a bike fit and must say it was worth every penny. Flexibility and past injuries (if any), feet (pronation) etc were recorded. Little did I know that I had the saddle at the wrong height all along and this was after a basic fit at the bike shop. The seat was raised almost 15-20mm !! Riding in the drops was a lot more comfortable compared to before and I could sustain higher rpm for a much longer period. Previously I could only do a short burst of 110-120 rpm but now can maintain it for a few minutes.

Also got to test a selle smp saddle and must say my ass loved it but my wallet didn't so it was given a miss

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yolk
post Apr 23 2013, 01:03 PM

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QUOTE(butthead @ Apr 23 2013, 12:42 PM)
i see chewbacca
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hahah that's Chris; a cyclist, coach and frame designer Chris Steffanoni


yolk
post Apr 29 2013, 01:08 PM

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Finally managed to spend some long hours on the saddle and completed a 100km ride (with breakfast stop in between). Previously, the furthest distance done was around 70km. So in a way this was a big deal and I guess I wasn't really prepared for it. Finished 1 bidon during the first 50km, then stopped to have breakfast (banana cake + hot latte). Ride back was fine and was drinking water occasionally; by 70+ km my left calf got a cramp while trying to unclip and I couldn't unclip in time and fell. Left calf started pulsating and I had major cramps. Stretched a bit and was feeling better.

Rode for another 20km and that's when all hell broke loose. Both calves starting to cramp, left thigh was twitching. Was left with 1/4 in the bidon and finished it all. Limped/rode to the nearest petrol station and bought isotonic drink and filled one empty bidon and the other with water. Felt better and slowly paddled back, the last 10km felt really long and the crazy head wind did not help at all.

Question, is there a general rule of thumb on how much water to consume based on no of hours/distance riding ? What about food intake ? Some told me that I will need to bring along power bar/gel/energy bar etc etc and it's to be consume every hour on the saddle.

I have a big ride in Oct and in the midst of training for it (200km in two days) but it's supported so I guess there'll be stop areas along the way and I can refuel/eat along the way.

Here's the ride gradient for the day

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This post has been edited by yolk: Apr 29 2013, 01:08 PM
yolk
post Apr 30 2013, 07:40 AM

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QUOTE(miaopurr @ Apr 29 2013, 01:27 PM)
QUOTE(ryan3721 @ Apr 29 2013, 01:33 PM)
One 550ml bottle every hour, some salt added in if hot days, RM0.70 roti every 2 hours
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thanks for the info guys. That website makes a really good read. Guess at the end of the day everyone's body/needs are different and it's something that is figured out along the way with more rides as you learn the limits of your body. More time in the saddle and always bring extra even if not needed. Better more than less thumbup.gif
yolk
post May 6 2013, 08:09 AM

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anyone interested in getting a cannondale ??

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yolk
post May 6 2013, 11:41 AM

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Does anyone here have experience riding on the velodrome ?? Tried it for the very first time yesterday and managed to do a couple of laps. Was bloody hard work and felt really awesome, got dizzy after a while though lol .. where is your eye suppose to focus on when riding ?? directly in front of you ?? Managed a top speed of 40+km/h but only for two laps .. legs and lungs cursing me after that

btw this an outdoor track and not indoor

This post has been edited by yolk: May 6 2013, 11:42 AM
yolk
post May 13 2013, 12:48 PM

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QUOTE(merchant9 @ May 13 2013, 11:16 AM)
Sorry for the late reply, we were away for the weekend and to my surprise, so many replies on our plight. We would like to say thank you to all those who responded.

We went to Rodalink in Botanic last Friday. We were told the following for my partner 192cm height, he should be riding:
A) Polygon at 56cm
B) Colnago at 54cm

The reason was Italian brand (Colnago) is usually following European size, thus 54cm enough. Meanwhile, Polygon is following Asian size, so need 56cm. However, when we visited few bike website, 190cm is at least the following sizes XL / 60 or (61 for Trek).

We were also told that people these days ride 1 size smaller, so he should be at least a 58cm. We are trying to get this right to prevent spending 5k on the wrong size, causing discomfort and him giving up the sports, burning the 5k.


Hmmm I personally feel size 54 is rather small for someone 190cm. I'm only 180 cm with an inseam of about 33-34inch (86cm) and can ride a size 54/56/58 bike with adjustments to the stem length and saddle height. Depending on manufacturer this could be either a size medium or medium large.

Best is to do your own measurement first to make sure you have a general idea on what size you'll need

bike fit calculator

This post has been edited by yolk: May 13 2013, 12:49 PM
yolk
post May 27 2013, 10:42 AM

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It's been a while since I last posted so here's an update from me.

Have successfully completed a 100 km ride without getting cramps, proper/frequent hydration/fuelling certainly helps. I took a long a few breakfast/yoghurt bars along and despite it providing some much needed energy boost, I found them too dry .. pfftsss so now looking into getting some powerbars/powergels.

Have also finally received my pro-lite wheels and manage to get it all fixed over the weekend.

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Encountered quite a number of issues

- brand new tyres are freaking hard to put on !!
- Never knew that bike tyres has direction. Only realised it after putting the wheel back on the bike
- The tube that I got was the standard one and I only realised that it's too short (30mm profile wheel) after fixing the tube/tyre on the wheel.

So in total I think I removed the tube/tyre about 4-5 times (front and rear) rclxub.gif

I can really feel the difference running 25mm tyres now instead of previously on 23mm, but then again I'm not sure if the change of wheels have contributed to the ride feel/comfort. Now I can run 10-15 psi lower air pressure as compared to before and get a much smoother/comfier feel/ride.

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This post is not posted in hopes to incur the wrath of vinann sweat.gif
yolk
post May 27 2013, 12:27 PM

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QUOTE(butthead @ May 27 2013, 10:47 AM)
vin_ann would have skip sailed pass everything else after reading "Have also finally received my pro-lite wheels......"

so, it doesn't make sense to make amendments after telling the internet that you have committed a sin..

your 30mm deep rim needs at least a 60-65mmmm valve stem i think...the next shorter one usually 40-45mm is too short to fit the rim and it just sticks out a little bit, not enough to fit the pump heads...

i think your lighter wheel would have made the difference along with better tires that has less rolling resistance... 25mm definitely makes a difference on the flat roads... unless you are in an experimental mood of trying the pro lite with your old tires and your old wheels with the 25mm tires to see what the differences are... we can safely conclude it's the combination of a bunch of things that you have made to get yourself in trouble with VIN_ANN!!!

ps : i bet vin_ann is now surfing airasia site with his credit card in hand ready to board the next available flight to aussie...u better start running and hide...
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well it would certainly be nice to have vin_ann come all the way here with his bike !! heh got lotsa "pro" here for him to play with. I'll just show the way on a bike with motor !! icon_idea.gif

Yeah, never took into account the valve stem when getting the tubes. Didn't know/think 30mm profile would make such a big difference as compared with the stock wheels. Went to the nearest LBS and wanted to get extension valves but in the end it was cheaper to just get new tubes with longer valves.

Yeah could be, plus the new wheels have much better bearings ? so it definitely rolls a lot smoother too. There's certain parts of my route that has wooden planks/bridge and previously I could feel each and every bump. Now it's smooth sailing most of the way.

Too much hassle just to know which ultimately made a difference .. wheels or tyres. Plus the old wheels are buckled and has a broken spoke, hence why I couldn't put off the purchase for a new set of wheels any longer.

QUOTE(miaopurr @ May 27 2013, 11:00 AM)
u haven't tried panaracer
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no I haven't. This is the first time I've tried removing/installing tyres/tubes and boy was I surprised on how hard it was. Thumbs hurt like fark


I've also installed brand new brake pads (swisstop) but no matter how much I adjust the front brakes it feels soft (no bite) to me. The rear feels absolutely fine and it's loads better than my previous brake pads. Upon further inspection I noticed that I've installed the front pads with toe in whilst the rear is flat to the rim. Did some reading from other forums and apparently the reason why people toe in is to reduce squeal and also since the front of the pad hits the surface of the rim first, it clears any muck before the full face of the pad touches the rim.

This initial contact causes me to press in the brake more to get full contact which makes it feel like the pads are not really biting that well, especially when compared with the original pads.

Should I install it flat without toe in or try swapping with the rear brake pads and install it with toe in ? Ideas/suggestions welcome. Isn't much fun flying down the hill after a climb to not have the confidence in the brakes. sweat.gif
yolk
post May 27 2013, 02:41 PM

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QUOTE(miaopurr @ May 27 2013, 02:00 PM)
panaracer is even harder to mount.
anyway, to make it easier, use ur palm to push the tyre onto the rim.
not interested
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yeah ended up using more than just the palm blush.gif

QUOTE(butthead @ May 27 2013, 02:01 PM)
now you are just stroking his wood... he must be seating by the edge of his seat now going like this
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the extension is meant more for tubular rather than clinchers
don't you have tire levers???
pad toe in is just a little bit... not a whole lot of it.. when you have too much... full pad contact depends on your lever pull and you actually need to pull a bit more lever just to get all the pad to fully contact your brake track...hence a spongy feel...

a little toe in would do good to prevent squeel and high frequency brake judders...you can run it flat if you are lucky enough that your pads don't cause squeel... but usually my relation with swissstop has been sweet so far and i think swisstop pads seldom squeel due to the softer pad compounds...

i say run it flat first.. if it squeels... toe in a little... just a little, much less than what you have now...
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of course got la levers but most people asked to avoid using levers when fitting the tyre back as this might pinch the tube and cause flats easier.

Will go back and play around with the brake pads and see if installing flat or a little toe feels better and which doesn't cause squeal. Thanks
yolk
post May 28 2013, 08:33 AM

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QUOTE(butthead @ May 27 2013, 02:01 PM)

pad toe in is just a little bit... not a whole lot of it.. when you have too much... full pad contact depends on your lever pull and you actually need to pull a bit more lever just to get all the pad to fully contact your brake track...hence a spongy feel...

a little toe in would do good to prevent squeel and high frequency brake judders...you can run it flat if you are lucky enough that your pads don't cause squeel... but usually my relation with swissstop has been sweet so far and i think swisstop pads seldom squeel due to the softer pad compounds...

i say run it flat first.. if it squeels... toe in a little... just a little, much less than what you have now...
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adjusted the brakes this morning and have placed the pads flat without toe in. Totally impressed with the difference !! rclxm9.gif Now I can justify paying for the swisstop

Now the brakes have the bite that I need/want. Some final fine tuning/adjustment to find the sweet spot and I'll be all set. Currently, I have to be aware of the bite difference compared to before and to make sure that I don't press/pull the brake lever too hard, pretty sure I'll fly over the handle bar if I were to suddenly grab the brakes with the same pressure as before especially when flying down the hill doh.gif
yolk
post May 28 2013, 12:38 PM

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why yolk kena attack ?!?! icon_question.gif

Story of Keirin cycling school in Japan with Shane Perkins




yolk
post May 28 2013, 01:01 PM

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QUOTE(miaopurr @ May 28 2013, 12:45 PM)
awesome
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part 3,4,5 will be released daily until the 31st.
yolk
post May 30 2013, 11:18 AM

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Was looking at some handlebars and noticed so many variants. Some are ergonomic, some are oversized etc etc. Does it really improve ride quality/comfort especially when doing long distance riding ?
yolk
post May 30 2013, 11:24 AM

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QUOTE(butthead @ May 30 2013, 11:22 AM)
women have bushes too...it just depends on how bushy it is...
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most have gone brazilian though
yolk
post May 30 2013, 11:47 AM

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QUOTE(vin_ann @ May 30 2013, 11:24 AM)
have you ever ride bike until ur palm become pains?

if not, pls continue to use ur current one.
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no, not yet but used to get numb before I got gloves. Now with gloves the numbness has reduced considerably.


QUOTE(butthead @ May 30 2013, 11:28 AM)
all handlebars now is oversized leh... 31.8mm... standard already...

the ergonomic, anatomic, shallow, compact drops are all very self preferential... the major effect you can see is the reach and drop measurements... but then there is also a factor how how you hold the drops.... some drops you feel more comfortable holding, the others.. .not so... so it is something you need to try it out...

and especially if you are already running a long stem... you need to look at how the curves affect your shifter reach....something you can't see until it goes onto your bike...

the answer is yes and no in terms of comfort and ride quality... no if you get the wrong one...yes, if you do... bars also can be too stiff and stuff... so, that might make a play in comfort... but there is many ways to cure that... like double bar tape wrap or the fizik bar gels and stuff like that...
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so many things to take into consideration. Thanks

QUOTE(butthead @ May 30 2013, 11:29 AM)
how you know??? it's not easy you know... i think quite painful somemore...
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sometimes can overhear girls in cafe comparing notes as to which wax centre is better for brazilian lol


QUOTE(miaopurr @ May 30 2013, 11:30 AM)
i think he meant the deda 35
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yes that's the one


QUOTE(butthead @ May 30 2013, 11:35 AM)
Deda 35 on the other hand ....is keeeewweeeeeellll... i so want one if it wasn't for the price...and only and i think only particularly the carbon ones work very well... they can't shape the aluminum ones to look all the way like the carbon ones... and you can hide cables as well...

the bar itself is very comfortable especially on the bar top because of the fat profile... but it gives problem with bar tape wrap as the tapes are usually not long enough.. deda reportedly has a special version of their tape for the OS35...

but i also dun fancy the RHM shape too much...so, it's a love hate relationship...
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there's one that's being sold (2nd hand) bar,100mm stem + ultegra 6600 flightdeck shifters. Still contemplating but worried about longevity of carbon bars especially when 2nd hand
yolk
post May 30 2013, 01:38 PM

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woohoo my winter bike n+1 is slowly coming together wub.gif




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yolk
post Jun 3 2013, 02:36 PM

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QUOTE(lilredridinghood @ Jun 3 2013, 02:34 PM)
By the way peeps, what you guys use to block sweats from dripping into your eyes? Bandana?

Buang basikal because I was distracted
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that's what cycling caps are for heh but I personally use sweatband
yolk
post Jun 4 2013, 06:56 AM

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QUOTE(butthead @ Jun 3 2013, 03:40 PM)
cycling caps are also good for shielding wind and rain droplets
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can't get used to the idea of the top of my head being under a cap (hot) maybe the cycling caps are more breathable/thinner ?

QUOTE(SYAMiLLiON @ Jun 3 2013, 04:04 PM)
if u got so much money to spend, i recommend this
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that's the one I'm using but i got the Anti-Freeze - pullover instead in preparations of winter

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