Buddyclub p1sf...+32 though..

http://www.buddyclubuk.com/acatalog/Buddy_club_SF_.html

Wont 195 on 7jj look a bit too stretched? On 8jj then it looks like rota rims adi...but 15" have high sidewalls ..maybe dun look so bad

"see how la" is a another term for "sooner than you think"...

i see that you have banyak video haram on your youtube account... dangerous nih...

This post has been edited by nm7: Sep 10 2014, 04:39 PM

This post has been edited by nm7: Sep 10 2014, 05:26 PM

you must be responsible for your own actions...

OKOK



usable only right after you drop your soap in the shower....

haih... nothing satisfies you...

anyways... was your car washing out previously without the yokos?

maybe the sidewall stiffness coupled with your stiff setup is not working well... put in more negative camber la...

it can't be that much on your compression/rebound settings since it worked well with the previous tires...

have you suspected the tire pressure? if you have colder outer tire that means that the tire is not evenly contacting the ground while it is heating up on the insides because it is being driven around with the insides contacting the ground more.... might want to try minimizing the camber and see if that helps..

it looks like your initial turn in seems to be fine and it starts to drift wide after you turn in....(i am not in the car... so, it's hard to tell by watching the video only without being able to look at the steering actions)

i usually prefer to have 0-0 toe on the fronts as it's more neutral...

fuuuh... either you own a tyre shop... or you memang tak kira spending those money trying to get things right....

Soft dampers does not necessarily give you more grip...it's a matter of adjusting the rebound / compression damping on the shocks...

actually... the dampers should be doing it's job... however the wheel is moving, it should be controlling the actions to keep the wheel as planted as possible...that is the role of the suspension system in racing applications...

and it's also the best not to keep damper travel too short as it will limit how much the wheel can traverse... if it's too short and the damper tops out... you will have situations where the wheel cannot maintain contact patch on certain road conditions like wavy ones... this is why the better absorbers use body shift to control car ride height instead of playing with the spring seats to lower or increase ride height...

when it comes to damper setup... depending on which aspect of motorsports you do is to always get your weight transfer correct so when you fling your car into a corner (depending on how ganas you are lar, smooth is always better)... it will help gradually shift weight over rather than fling the whole bulk of it over to one side of the car causing the tire to start slipping from all the extra load it has to carry on top of trying to slow or accelerate the car...

of course, it's better if your damper has separate damping adjustments for low / high speed compression and rebound damping... that way you can setup you dampers more specifically rather than have a knob that tunes all damping settings at one go...


This post has been edited by nm7: Sep 22 2014, 10:17 AM

ok lar... just a bit more troublesome... even if you get adjustment knobs... it's only within a certain range of minor adjustments you can make...

i like the dampers that do not have knobs... cheap, and no unique parts to f@ck up... imagine the rod koyak on those models... sure habis kena potong kaw kaw when you require it to be replaced....

i also remembered you said something in regarding your video that the situation improved after a short while and stopped washing out as badly after you start giving it the stick... shock oil is also one major factor in shock performance where you want it to be as consistent as possible as it goes through the heat changes... so, when it's colder when the shock is not being pummeled as hard as when you are giving it it the beans... it might react in one way and it will change characteristics when the oil heats up as it changes viscosity... this is why even when a shock is to be ran through a damper dyno... it has to go through a warm up workout first before the series of test begins in order to make sure they do not get the wrong readings...

of course, if you can spend like how you are willing to pay for doing alignment and camber adjustments... you can ask your shock maker to see if they are willing to let you bring your own shock oil (silkolene, motul, any brand you prefer) when you revalve or change settings and let you have the readings from the damper dyno for referential purposes...

it's all about narrowing it down to the settings that you want... so, you need to lock down all the variables that can play havoc with your shocks like the brand of oil being used... best is always to get the shock dyno readouts so you know how to adjust or replicate it back the next time it requires a revalve...

This post has been edited by nm7: Sep 22 2014, 10:26 AM

i am just saying lar... you as the customer can demand mar since the shocks are not those mass manufactured stock units anyways... just whether you have that experimentative mentality or not only...

i am not surprised... but it sounded like you are willing to go do alignment or camber so frequently like it's going to the arcade center like that... RM40 once done over 4 times per month just to get it spot on means it's RM160 adi....

of course with absorbers it's harder lar.. you have to pay to get it unmounted, hang the car somewhere or put back the stock units while it gets serviced and then pay again to unmount the stock to re-install the serviced ones... (and then repeat again if you boh syiok with it)

got RM100 dollar alignment service charge in sunway one arh??? wah!!! ganasnya dia punya calculator...

RM40 vs RM800... mana wa tau you ohh... maybe you dun mind leh...

i know lar they charge for re-tuning... but some shock makers don't let you choose or bring the fork oil of your choice... let alone let you see their dyno results... so, if they willing... then pick their brains and get involved in the process la... that's wat i am trying to say only....

actually... i have sat in cars which is very contradictory to what we have always been thought to believe.. as we are not on smooth surfaces like a track... it doesn't require a hard setup all the time to get the car to behave well... as i said earlier, trying to manage weight transfer and keep the car within the traction circle is more important... again, it is really a case of driver preference and technique because it's a thing with mentality...

i have sat in a Mivec'ed wira before going for a whack in ulu yam... the car was setup to be only slightly lowered and surprisingly a lot of damper travel and not hard like the entire car is bouncing all over the place or unsettles with the slightest un-evenness (if that is a word, spell check is mind f@king me) on the road... so, the car still pitches and rolls quite a bit and doesn't quite stay flat through the turns... but it just hooks on and the driver can step on it mid-turn to get it out of the turn (helped no less by an LSD la)...it's still no stock damper setup but it's soft by today's usual damper setups

the thing is that quite a lot of cars are setup so hard that they got brainwashed that it is the way to go and it gives you a sort of feel that you are driving a fast car... any hints of the car pitching automatically unsettles the drivers nerves...

that ride in that car totally turned my beliefs inside out...

car wash?

This post has been edited by nm7: Sep 22 2014, 12:29 PM

well, it's your car and it's your butt... definitely your wallet too...

i dunno where or wat hard we are talking about now... but going up to higher spring rates is not gonna make the car extremely harder... i've sat in a k-car with 12k linear springs up front, it's survivable ... it's not the spring rate that shakes your lung out... but the compression damping... with a higher spring rate, your absorber has to work harder to dampen the rebound...

i too need to save some money to buy my swift springs... DAMN!!!

i was talking about RM8 car wash lar...

This post has been edited by nm7: Sep 22 2014, 02:28 PM

this is growing to become a complicated subject

dialing in a car is pretty much the same... in terms of methods...

it just what kind of "feel" the are looking for that inspires confidence in them to push it harder... it's just like pasta, some (mostly asians) likes it more cooked while some likes it al dente... it can be the same pasta, same cooking liquid, same method but slightly different cooking time just to get the different results....