I put new tires to which ever axle will wear it out faster. The reason is to try even out the wear. Having said that I always rotate every 10k km in order to try even out wear if all new tires, so when comes time to change it will be for all 4 tires at once. Note that this is assuming front & rear are the same size (not staggered). For my current ride, I cannot do that anymore since it's staggered sizes, so can only rotate left/right.

Just take out your left and put it on right and vice versa, but can do only for non directional tires. If directional then have to take out the tires from the rims, put it back with opposite direction, then switch left-right. It's just to try even out the wear as much as possible so that later can replace together, like you said.

This post has been edited by 6UE5T: Mar 30 2013, 11:36 PM

That's if you're using asymmetric tires, then you cannot switch the tire/rims orientation but you can rotate left/right immediately. If directional symmetric tires, then there's no inside/outside so you can switch the sides, but for directional you need to change the tire/rim orientation to switch left/right.
As for the camber, cars which are running around 1-1.5 degrees will usually wear out the inner side just a bit more, will be a bit noticeable after around 10-20k km usage.
It's true that it might not be much difference between left/right and should not be if normal, but it's actually recommended to still rotate left-right if possible to really even out the wear. There won't be handling disadvantages. As for the cost, well when using non-directional tires I used to rotate myself for all 4 corners, so zero cost, just a little sweat which I take as extra work out! . If directional, then of course have to bring to tire shop, but then don't need to do it so often la. If want to save, can just do it every 15/20K km. The only other additional cost is a wheel realignment might be necessary but usually not.

That's because the tires were already sliding/loosing grip, so the the more braking force you apply would actually makes it worse as they will slide even more and would not make the tires regain grip. By letting off the brake pressure, you'll let the tires roll a bit more and hance can regain grip so then you can turn. If you watch racing, you can see that everytime the cars start to lock/slide underbraking, the driver will release the brake to regain the grip allowing him to steer back into the corner. This is actually what ABS is also doing for normal cars.
This can also happen in the dry, just at much higher speeds when entering a corner.

Any car can still spin or flip so VSC/ESP should be able to benefit all, small or big cars. But I've driven cars with those features to the limit yet so I don't know how it actually feels/behaves with those features turned on.

This post has been edited by 6UE5T: Apr 1 2013, 07:31 PM

If your car is FWD, it's natural tendency is to understeer since it's more front heavy and the front wheels have to multitask (putting power to the road and steering), so more difficult to oversteer unless you do trail braking while entering corner too fast, or pull the handbrake like you mentioned.
If RWD, then can be easier to oversteer cause you can break loose the rear traction by applying more throttle to overpower the rear grip, hence the term power sliding which what drifters do. The weight distribution is also more even compared to FWD cars (some even able to reach 50/50, such as BMW).