No, the right one is bigger.

Aiyoh the bonnet is blocking, how to snap pic from the driber's seat

Yiu have to ask YAB about the small filter, I am still not very clear on the design

Jeti feri lah Yah the bas stesen is next door

You naik bas at Penang Sentral kah? Ayam toking about the Island, I seldom go mainland, will get lost there

Naik feri enjoy makan angin

It's been a long time.

Not just sold, sold secretly with all the expensive mods attached

This post has been edited by lhwj: Mar 28 2013, 04:33 PM

1998? The feri looks like it's from 1888

It's not that old

By the time reach KL stale aldy

Same lah, it's been like that since the 1970s

What if there was a feri named Pulau Holland?

This is the most questionable one

Can someone pl0x point out to him that he's selling a bomb?

Mythbusters should do one episode on busting all these performance mods

Though I remember there was one episode where they fed an engine mothballs, detergent, coke, etc etc

No fish in the world can survive that

The study of how engine vacuum and RPM relates to fuel consumption is always interesting. These are my observations.

From my understanding (and YAB thinks so too), on the IAFM (non +) engine, the fuel regulator sprays fuel based solely on engine vacuum. 0 inhg? Spray rich 9 9. High vacuum? Lean burn. So by reading the vacuum gauge you can estimate how much fuel is fed to the engine. Plus, your engine vacuum is dependent on the throttle opening, if you step hard and keep the throttle wide open, vacuum drops and the injectors dump loads of fuel into the engine.

Throw RPM into the equation and it gets a bit more complicated. You're right in saying that low RPM doesn't necessarily mean low FC. Ever ridden a multi-speed bike? That should give you a very good idea on what the engine is going through. For example, if you try and ride in high gear at low speeds, it's difficult and tiring even though you are pedaling slowly. If your brain had a vacuum gauge it'll be pointing at 0 inhg. But at the same time, if the gear is too low, you waste too much energy pedaling quickly but the bike moves too slowly. So you should pick a gear that allows you to pedal at the optimum cadence (your pedaling RPM) for the road condition, be it fast or slow, uphill, flat or downhill. Same thing with driving. You may not be able to select your gears manually on an automatic or CVT gearbox but understanding the shifting behaviour of your gearbox will help.

So in the end I can say your RPM doesn't matter too much, as long as you're not excessively high near the redline. Your vacuum does matter however, as it directly affects how much fuel is sprayed into the engine.

I have been driving with a vacuum gauge for about seven months now. Personally, I don't think driving while reading the gauge has actually improved my consumption, but having that extra bit of info is very useful and has taught me loads on how the engine responds to the throttle and load conditions (eg, acceleration, going uphill). I think it should be standard in every car but then 99% of drivers won't know how to read it

Going by the above it seems that driving with a high vacuum all the time is good. There were times when my eyes were almost glued on the gauge, adamant not to let the vacuum drop below 10 inhg. However if I drive like that I wouldn't be going anywhere, as I can't accelerate and keep up in traffic. I found it was better to actually accelerate a bit harder initially, never mind that the vacuum went down to 5 or even 0 inhg, but if I did I'd quickly reach an optimum speed and RPM ratio where I could now move fast and at the same time have an efficient vacuum reading. What I'm saying here may not make much sense until you get your own vacuum gauge

On the IAFM engine, unplug the vacuum hose to the fuel regulator, put a Y connector then tap the vacuum gauge hose from there. Wished I had pics.

100cc/min x 60 = 6000cc or 6000ml or 6L for 110 km, that is 5.45L/100km which is extremely good, my Gaga can only do about 6.x or 7L/100km if I drive at 110 km/h

I don't have the benefit of all the data you can read through your OBDII scanner and I wished I had one as well. Of course when you naik bukit FC per distance sure increase, there's nothing you can do about that What most people do is to tekan harder to maintain the same speed and I'm sure that if you hold the throttle at the same position or even release slightly it's more efficient than maintaining the same speed.

Actually when referring to the bicycle part I'm talking about much lower RPM, for example if you try and accelerate up a steep hill in 3rd gear at about 1500 RPM, at that RPM the poor engine cannot provide enough torque. At this point, the driver may WOT (wide open throttle), vacuum 0 inhg but even though the ECU sense WOT and flood the engine with lots of fuel, the car cannot accelerate. The correct thing is to downshift to 2nd, now the engine can rev to about 3000 RPM, closer to the peak torque and the driver doesn't have to WOT, so it's using less fuel than 3rd gear. Anyway 90 km/h is much too fast to shift into 4th gear, in fact for economical driving I shift to 5th at around 50-60 km/h on flat roads.

I think besides how high you rev before you shift up, equally important is how hard do you step to reach the shifting point. For example, you say you shift at 3k RPM. Do you tekan hard and then release at 3k RPM, or do you gently apply pressure and slowly ease the revs up to 3k RPM before you shift up? That makes quite a bit of difference IMHO.

All the stuff you can tell from a vacuum gauge

On another note, this week I drove WOT whenever I could, traffic permitting Meaning I drove without caring about my consumption, as if petrol was free

Consumption? 8.7L/100km. Last week in similar circumstances I got 7.6L/100km.

Back to eco-mode from now. Conclusion? It's possible to save about 1L/100km by changing your driving habits

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