Lol, from what you have written so far, it wasn't difficult to know what you were going to decide on.

On average, it looks like it has an asking price of around 96k. 2nd hand dealers will probably drop off another 5k from that figure if you are not selling it off yourself. The 1st 2 years has the most amount of depreciation.

Car inspection checklist

Exterior

- Check startup sequence, engine should start with no issues or odd sounds
- Check bodywork for any signs of dents and scratches
- Check undercarriage for any odd item sticking out
- Check wheels and hubcaps if everything is intact (including logo)
- Check wipers and window washer system
- Check all headlights
- Check headlight housing for any sign of cracks and scratches
- Check all signal lights if they are functioning properly
- Check all rear lights housing for any signs of cracks and scratches
- Check all windows for any sign of cracks and scratches. Be VERY thorough here
- Check side mirror for any cracks and check the electric folding system

Interior

- Check windscreens and windows for any cracks or scratches that might not be seen from the outside.
- Check for tinting bubbles (if you asked the SA to tint)
- Check if floor carpets are given (may not be applicable)
- Check upholstery for any sign of scratches or tearing. Inspect the roof upholstery as well for any sign of scratches or tearing or marks
- Check electric seats if functioning properly
- Check rear seat folding system (may not be applicable)
- Check ISOFIX points. There should be at least 2 per side at the bottom of back support (hidden) and 1 behind the seats (when you fold down) or by the headrest.
- Check air conditioning system both front and back
- Check dashboard instrumentation lighting
- Check cabin lighting system, including all vanity mirrors to see if the lights are functioning properly
- Check bluetooth pairing and USB (bring along a USB with mp3, mp4 loaded)
- Check 12V outlet, bring along your car charger to check if it functions properly
- Check stereo system for any signs of audio cracking
- Check audio touchscreen system for functionality.
- Check CD audio system (bring 1 or 2 audio CDs)
- Check for service manual and car operating manual
- Check petrol level. Ask for a full tank of gas or if it's not given. They should give you at least RM100 to fill up your tank. Else ask for service discount voucher instead.

Boot

Check if the following are given:

- First aid kit (may not be applicable)
- Tire repair kit
- Boot tray (may not be applicable)
- Cargo net (may not be applicable)

I think that covers everything.

This post has been edited by zweimmk: Mar 9 2013, 08:59 AM

That's entirely up to you my friend If you sell direct, you can get as much as 99k. 89k ~ 92k is probably on the low side, a good average of what you can get is probably between 94k to 96k. But that also depends on what the actual selling price of a 2 year old car is. If you renewed your insurance, there should be a value estimated by the insurance company, use that as a guide.

Does it make sense to retrofit at all? It's more added weight. Your car doesn't need the extra weight

The i-stop is great in traffic jams, but it will only stop the engine for a certain period of time (think it also depends on weather) just before the air-conditioning starts blowing hot air. I thought we already learnt that that's how the i-stop function works in order to save fuel. It's the same with hybrid cars. Unless you turn off the air conditioning, it will restart again to avoid draining the battery.

Btw, you want to calculate your FC. The only sure way to do it is record your total mileage and total liters of petrol filled into your petrol tank. The MID is not the way to look at your FC figures.

www.fuelly.com

Use that to establish actual FC readings for your car.

I'll be very impressed if it can fit the following in the boot without folding down the rear seats.

40CM x 55CM x 28CM x 1 soft luggage

75CM X 53CM X 31CM x 1 hard luggage

82CM X 59CM X 34CM x 1 hard luggage

Actually I meant storing all 3 luggage of the size I listed.

Typically you should be able to store 1 large and 1 medium. The 3rd one will have to go up front... usually. But if your boot is big enough, it will be able to store all 3 pieces.

The F30 was never known to be a quiet car. It's much better than the E90 though. It's a driver's car and if you wanted comfort, you should be looking at something else. If you wanted quality finishes, the mercedes is the one to look at.

Soundproofing would still be a good choice. I suggest you go KL Auto to get it foamed and soundproofed at the same time if you don't want any compromises.

What a familiar looking dashboard layout

Q5 (pre-FL)

Mazda HQ is in Hiroshima. It should be more popular over there.

The new Accord spec is out. Won't hold my breath for the 2.0 version. But the 2.4L version is sporting the new earth dreams ivtec engine.

http://210.1.60.161/download/newaccord/accord_catalogue.pdf

Don't know how much of the equipment will make it over unscathed, but it looks like it come complete with the following:

6 Airbags
HID with LED DRL
Blind Sport Monitoring System
Lane Departure Warning System
Emergency Stop Signal System
Collision Mitigation Brake System
ADAPTIVE CRUISE CONTROL
One Push Ignition System
8 inch touchscreen TFT LCD Navigation System
Premium Speakers with sub-woofer
USB/Bluetooth function
Built in HDD?
Memory Seats
Electric rear sunshade and manual side sunshade
Paddle Shifters
ABS+EBD+VSC
Hill Control System

It doesn't look like it will have 6 speed AT but that's not really a big deal. The Honda 5 Speed ATs have been very good all these years.

Now if they price this sucker in the same vicinity as the new Camry, we may finally see a new D segment champion.

This post has been edited by zweimmk: Mar 12 2013, 07:19 PM

Thai spec 2.0L comes with the following equipment. There's a good chance that the Malaysian spec will largely follow

* Active cornering lights - This is not the same as adaptive headlights but the principle is similar. All Accord headlamps are now equipped with a corner light that activates as you turn to provide further illumination. The best part is that this light will activate on both corners as you reverse.

* Multi-angle Reverse camera - linked to the i-mid like the CRV

* DRL - all variants

* Leather seats - looks like at least the premium 2.0 version will at least carry leather seats

* 4 airbags

* ABS+EBD+BA+VSC

* Emergency Stop Signal - this looks like a subset function of the Collision Mitigation Brake System. At least the 2.0L version will retain this

* Smart Entry and one touch push start button

* 8 inch TFT with Navigation GPS as an option.

* Bluetooth and USB comes as standard

* HDD audio looks like it comes as a premium option

* Electric & Memory seats

* Cruise Control is standard (adaptive only on 2.4L version)

* Dual zone air-conditioning

* Auto door lock by speed (may be disabled for our market)

* 17 inch wheels

* Hill start assist

All in all, the offerings are at least better on paper as compared to the New Camry and seemingly formidable to the new Mazda 6. Now it's just a question of price.

I doubt Honda will lose on handling but it all depends on how they want to tune the suspension for their target market. And the car probably comes with a spare tire as well, lol!

They've got a 1.8L to 2.0L earth-dreams engine already. They just haven't brought it here yet. My guess is they want to milk the R series for what it's worth and as long as possible.

There are a few ways to look at it.

If you compare engine to engine, the Mazda 6 2.0L engine is better. But to be frank, the numbers aren't really much to gloat about.

Honda 2.0L R20A3 - PGM-FI
155Hp @ 6500RPM
190N @ 4300RPM

Mazda Skyactiv-G 2.0 - Gasoline Direct Injection
153Hp @ 6000RPM
200N @ 4000RPM

For comparison purposes, I've also thrown in the New Camry engine in the mix. And that is an engine that has been in use for the last 12 years.

Toyota 2.0L 1AZ-FE
146Hp @ 6000RPM
190N @ 4000RPM

Again, not exactly night and day difference across the board.

The Mazda 6 should return better FC because of its GDI engine and lighter weight, but it also has the smallest petrol tank among all the current D segments available, while the Honda R series engine has a proven reliability track record. These engines aren't tuned for performance but more for FC but even so, it's not likely you will see FC numbers being better by over 15%.

Comparing transmission to transmission - again the Mazda 6 2.0 is better but Honda's 5 speed automatics aren't slouches as well. There are enough media online to show that the Honda 5 speed AT can compete just as well against the 6 speed AT in terms of FC. It's one extra gear, but hardly what you will call a night and day difference.

So what really matters to me at the end is less with the engine and transmission but more with what equipment they will leave intact once they sell the car here and of course, at what price.

Honda CKD quality here is only average. The finishing is rough around the edges but generally, no major issues.

I can't comment on Mazda 6 CBU quality but generally, CBU is better than CKD.

You can't compare the Mazda 6 2.0 and the Accord 2.0 yet because there's no price and no concrete spec for the latter. But historically, Mazda has always offered better equipment at a higher price point.

So if I were to compare the Thai spec accord with the Mazda 6 2.0 here

Pro Mazda 6

- Safer with 2 additional airbags (6 vs 4)
- Slightly more powerful engine with better FC thanks to the 6 speed AT pairing
- 3 year free maintenance
- Sleeker design
- Tribos paint protection

Pro Honda

- Proven engine with reliability track record
- More service centers around the country
- Very slightly better resale value (by about 5 to 8k)
- Spare tire
- More aftermarket options

It only applies if you compare the new Mazda 6 with the old Accord. This new Accord looks like it's a game changing model for Honda as evidenced by US sales. It is moving very fast and catching up with the US Camry.

Until the M'sia spec new Accord is finalized and priced, we have nothing to compare.

The Xenon headlights cost RM1200
Rear spoiler cost Rm1456
The halogen blue beam for the fog lights cost RM262 (size: H11)

The most interesting item is the remote engine starter key

Price: RM1810

All converted from yen to ringgit. The xenon headlights will be the one that is difficult to retrofit if China/Japan doesn't start selling the kit. Alternative is have a shop import it in for you.

Also plenty of other very expensive gadgets to fit in if you have the money to splurge. Prepare to go broke, lol!

This is hypothetical la

My point of view:

I will only buy the new Accord 2.4L if they price it around RM180k, maximum will be 185k and not a penny more. The equipment must be as good as the mid range Thai spec 2.4L version, best if it matches the tech version of the Thai 2.4L Accord.

I will only buy the new Accord 2.0VTI-L if they keep the spec same as the Thai version top spec version at 153k ~ 155k. If they price it at 158k, then it must offer something substantial like HID and navigation as well, minimal would be at least a modulo body kit. When that happens, whatever advantage that is held by the Mazda 6 would have been already offset by the price. The only issue is that the Accord is less safe as a car because it has 2 less airbags but equipment wise, it would at least be on par with whatever the Mazda 6 has.

I think a conservative estimate is to look at current offer price and add another 3k to it and you should get a rough figure of what you are expected to pay.

Okay, there's now an english article, so I know what else is standard in the 2.0L Thai Accord.

- Motion Adaptive Electric Power Steering
- Active noise control

Not bad, now if all of these are kept intact when the Accord launches here....