just bought this mineral oil at petrol station...

want to use this at waja mitsu engine..

izzit suitable to use due to monograde?

well im using it together with bardhal engine treatment..

what is the advantage or disadvantage use monograde oil in malaysian road environment?

tq

good to use on daily drive car n keep them change every 5k km...

this is the difference between mono and multigrade oil found in google

The main difference between these two types of engine oil is their fluidity at cold start. Multigrades, such as 10W/40, 15W/40, 5W/30, etc., flow more easily and are therefore pumped round to the critical components much more quickly. Historically, the 'W' stands for winter. As well as this important feature, multigrades also have to provide a protective oil film at higher temperatures when the engine has warmed up. Monogrades on the other hand provide a very good oil film at working temperatures, but their cold start properties are poor. To overcome this it used to be the practice to put a thin monograde, such as a SAE 30, in the engine during the winter and a heavier monograde, such as a SAE 50.

soo the overall summary i understand for monograde and multigrade engine oil is

the coldstart of the engine right? soo monograde engine oil not so good for cold start..

yups! that is simple explanation...the W in multigrade doesnt effect us so much...

tq
can i know why the W doesnt effect much?
is this because Malaysia is averagely a hot climate through out the year?

u got it

Even though we live in hot climate, the thinner viscosity property during cold start of multi grade oil should still count. Cuz the oil will still flow faster compared to single grade during initial start up to it should offer better protection during that first few minutes before the engine reach full/normal operating temp. If it makes no difference, there'll be mostly single grade oil used here, but instead it's the other way around.
I guess if it's for old cheap car engine and don't really care much about the lifetime of it, then just use the single grade. Or if you just not going to use the car for long or planning to sell it, then just use that single grade to save money. Otherwise, still better to use multigrade.

i believe all cars has the this oil pump to pump the engine oil before start the engine...n i agree about thinner oil flow better...

the single grade doesnt mean makes no difference but those W doesnt mean much to our climate...n they are here becos of market vs pricing = profit...

how about SAE 40 vs 0w40 in general?

thnx for opinion and explaination..the car is waja..it is almost 10 year old car..im not using solely this oil..im using it together
with bardhal engine treatment.. ..what i notice, the engine produce a bit less noise than before.. ..but you got ur point there..im quite
agree with that..


yerpp..somehow i thinking about this...oil pump suppose to pump the engine oil right..hmm ...you have point there..
other than that..this oil quite cheap...and the most important..it is original that i bought from petrol station..

im also thinking...so which cheapest mineral engine oil better? sae 40 or 20w50? but i guess 20w50 quite heavy right?

of cos its suitable to use here...the only cons with this oil is its heavy n not performance oriented...so can safely say good for daily drive who rarely drive more than 3.5k rpm for example...

they are many cheap mineral oil but those with good brand are good...please avoid those "new name' brand...cheapest branded mineral oil i believe less than rm50

20w50 - car will feel sluggish eventho i never tried tat before...but mostly are...



actually this is kinda old argument actually..

how bout caltex delo?

http://www.caltex.com/my/products-and-serv...ubricants/delo/

This post has been edited by SKY233: Feb 16 2013, 08:51 PM

My dads 16yr ol work horse used to run on C.GTX 20w50. Noticed much smoother idling after starting n easier pick up after switching to Magnatec 20w40.

delo is for diesel right? cannot comment much about it..not sure...however i do heard the caltex oil is quite good..

but this petronas mach 5 sae 40 can be use both petrol and diesel engine..

http://www.mymesra.com.my/microsite/lubric...ger_Mach5SF.pdf

i used to buy castrol 20w50 before...no problem for the engine...but the price is keep increasing..
and also it is kinda hard to know the originality of the engine oil...i scared for fake product..
the castrol product that i can 80% trust the originality is from supermarket store..such as carrefour/tesco/giant/etc...big store...
so i prefer to buy from petrol station

no problem with the oil..just changed it today

can't say much about this oil...seems all normal..no sluggish...performance not soo much difference..coz all this while using mineral oil to maintain it..

before this using 15w40 castrol...but i can tell..this oil..abit decrease in perfomance..just abit...but not much noticeable..my experience

for rm50 and genuine oil from petronas..cannot complain much about it seems it is a cheap mineral monograde oil..

after all..the car is nearly 10 years old..an old car..but serve me well..just keep the maintenance regularly..

Ive used so far

1) shell rimula r1 sae 40 (diesel engine oil with api SF)
2) petronas motolub (not mach 5) sae 40
3) caltex delo 400 (diesel engine oil with api SL)

On my:
1) nissan sunnY
2) proton wira 1.3gli.

And had no problems.
In fact if one were to look at the specifications of the SAE 40, and compare the "Kinematic Viscosity cst" with a multigrade, it is actually similar to a 20w40.

And furthermore i prefer to go for those diesel engine oil, because their TBN is usually 2x higher than normal petrol mineral oil, and yet it is so much cheaper.

Monograde benefits is that it doesnt have any viscosity improvers (go google it for more info) to break down , hence it lasts longer than multigrades, althoigh argueably considered low-tech, old fashion, etc on the API ratings.

This post has been edited by SleeplessEyes: Feb 17 2013, 01:01 AM

thnx for review..wow..using diesel engine oil to lubricate petrol engine? i heard about it...how long has u done this?
im sure the diesel engine oil much more cheaper...more cheap if u buy bulk or those in barrels..
however im not have confidence yet to use diesel engine oil...
the least i will choose is the mineral engine oil that stated at the back that can be use both petrol and diesel engine

so, delo 400 is api sl rating la.. icic

Yes i have faith in the correct diesel engine oil lubricating my petrol engine. Read below and ill explain why.

Most diesel oil wont tell you straight on its label, that it is "suitable for petrol engine" . It wont.
Even the Shell Rimula R1 i poured in, Doesnt clearly states it.
Otherwise they wont be able to sell their higher priced, petronas synthium/mach 5 oil to normal consumers.

The keyword , when looking for compatibility of the diesel engine lubricant for gasoline engine,
Is by the API S grade. I.e API SE,SF, SN, etc., at the back of the bottle.
If you dont see any S grade, its clearly incompatible for the gasoline engine.

It is

Read here
http://www.caltex.com.au/productsandservic...on.aspx?ID=1639

Lots of very good reviews.
Even one time i read a Subaru WRX owner used it on the tracks, and found the engine oil temperature is lower.
I cant find the source though. Its from Autoworld.com.my if i recall.

This post has been edited by SleeplessEyes: Feb 17 2013, 02:56 PM

thnx for clarification..now i understand...
u buy from barrel ar? much more cheaper then..

U sure u want to use something older than API SJ (API SF in your petronas) on your waja? I think in long run it would damage your catalytic converter due to high zinc and phosphorus.

ya...just read about API rating..hmm..you got ur point there..tqq


http://www.pqiamerica.com/apiserviceclass.htm

nevermind ..already using it now..im using it with bardhal engine treatment..hope have some sort of protection from it
not wasting my money by replace it..i will wait for the interval

Which one is more important for lifespan issue.
The engine, or the catalytic converter? If I may say, of course its the engine.

In US,yes, the Catatylic converter is important to pass the emissions test,
but in Malaysia, Puspakom dont give a shit about it.

That's why the newer API poses a more serious issue for older engines due to reduced zinc level., just to protect the cat, at the expense of engine life.



This post has been edited by SleeplessEyes: Feb 18 2013, 09:30 AM

yes very2 true...

also, only 1% of cases involving cat damage cause of using API SG and below...

i've been using HDEO for 4 years now...HDEO is known for having high ZDDP....

sarjantulang

thnx for opinion ..so in this case, it is rarely caused cat damage due to high in ZDDP?

Anybody can advise me how old is this oil ?
Found this in my store room during last week's spring cleaning.

Engines do burn a little bit of oil during combustion.

But even a small concentration of ZDDP wont harm.

FYI, if your engine is already at terminal stage whereby its blowing blue smoke like a 2 stroke kapcai,
Even with Mobil 1, Shell Helix Ultra, or whatever fancyful full synthetic oil,
Your cat will be damaged by excessive oil blowby and clog up.

Just like Sarjan Tulang quotes:

HDEO (heavy duty diesel engine oil) Rockz

This post has been edited by SleeplessEyes: Feb 18 2013, 02:46 PM

Hey guys, I really need some help. I'm working on a college assignment regarding Malaysian automative oils and engines. If you guys are free, could you spare a few minutes with this survey?

http://www.surveymk.com/s/Mel13

Any help is GREATLY appreciated.

Thank you in advance!