The groupon deal is without LM (Lifetime Map) support...

Bro ED and Bro Cheong,

Yes it is true that MFM/MSM does provide the map support to Garmin. But to many end user who does not do the update themselves, then it is difficult to learn or less computer literate type

Another angle to look at, MSM/MFM one day may close down, but not likely Garmin rite?

The in car cam, i would not recommend. Tho it has awesome features on GPS recording, but it's like buying a cow for a pint of milk

I rather you guys get the Montana series... lagi powerful. Can use on road, off road, in marine, 4x4, cycling, super bikes, ATV and mostly all outdoors... the only set back is - tarak fishfinder...!!

Bro Kelvin,
fit curado G series?

care to bring tomorrow? I'll give it a test

Which model are you referring to bro?

Hi all Anglers,

Obtained the bearing from Bro WWW today. The bearing is rated at ABEC7 SiC bearings in short, ceramic bearings.

Below are my test and review.

Reel: Shimano Curado 200G6
Spool: with 15lb line approx 100-m
Modification: Fine tuning and drag upgraded

Standard bearing: 30 seconds
Boka bearing with rubber: 34 seconds
Boka bearing without rubber: 40 seconds
Boka bearing without rubber + lube: 27 seconds

Finding the time kind of interesting tho. The orange rubber seal actually touches the inner roller and how come it's faster versus without orange rubber seal,it became slower.

Funnily enough, i realised that the Boka bearing without rubber and lubricated can sustain a high RPM within 10 seconds. Once it's reaching 10 seconds, i could hear the spool slowing down as if there is certain light resistance on the shaft.

My conclusion:
I could not explain why the bearing is slower, particularly when it's basically skeletal.

The bearing sustaining at high RPM for the first 10 seconds probably due to the weight of the bearing which is actually lighter compared to stainless steel bearings. Which also explains the quick start/ease of starting the bearing rotation, instead of a heavier bearing.

Looking at the bright side, how often or who can actually cast for 10 seconds before the lure drops into the H2O? Having such sustain of high RPM for the first 10 seconds, could actually explains why we are able to hit further distance with such bearing upgrade! For a RM40 upgrade parts, it is easily upgraded and inexpensive to replace

Well, that's my take... what's your take or comments?

Daiwa oil... RUle of Thumb: Bearing--> Oil, Gears-->grease

there's few types you can consider

Shimano oil, abu oil, zpi F0, Qplus silicone treated....

Many types tho, i usually depends on the method i'm gonna fish and lube accordingly.

If i'm gonna be doing jigging where casting are not required, mostly, i'll be greasing either with QPlus gel grease or slap it with Yamaha blue grease(which is meant for outboard engine)

If casting is required in saltwater, i'll be lightly greasing similar to above. Only that above would be lots more where i'll remove the bearing shield and slap the a whole content in.

If fresh water casting, then oiling as usual. If you may fish in rapids and arsenals may get wet, then i'll oil it slightly more, rather than a drop.

Well, that's just my preference.

Regular casting, be it lightly oiled or slightly more - it does not effect much on my distance anyway....

Let's see if Bro WWW would be bringing in the other sizes or not...

Bro WWW,
The size for MGX is at 3x10x4 (sideplate) : 5x11x4 (spool)

The size for Daiwa is at 3x8x4 (sideplate) : 5x11x4 (spool)

I reckon to get 10x of 5x11x4 (which can be paired with your current bearing inventory) and 5x of 3x8x4 (which could be paired with the 5x11x4)

What say you?

Am quite sure a few of the MasterBaiter(caster) here would not mind to give it a try..

Many thanks Bro WWW,
Looking forward to the parts!!

nice one

anyone interested in building their own rods??

Just got a blank for myself, just thinking if anyone would like to learn, i dont mind to guide..

Practically it would be at my place ler... and there's no charges involved. More towards the knowledge nia.

Bro Acheong,
you are right on the spot!!

Heard someone told me to go there, but deploy boat and thruster then cruise, casting trolling along the banks..

Great!!

I was just hoping to share and show to fellow anglers how a rod is being built and of course with all the consideration in hand...

Fellow anglers,
These are the questions that you may need to answer TO YOURSELF before building a rod

1. What type of rod? Casting/jigging/surf/spinning
- Casting rod: Graphite construction, thin wall, light weighted, length, type of action, fast, slow, mid
- Jigging rod: what is the PE that is required, length, type of jigging performed, long stroke, short, speed, size of reel
etc...etc...etc...
2. What is your budget for the rod blank?
3. How much time can you spare for making this blank on daily basis.
4. Then the rest flow of step by step would be varied due to personal requirements

As for the accessories, it's not ex too.
EVA handle: RM25 1strip of 1.5ft as i recalled
Reel seat: RM25
Guides: Taiwan SIC RM100 Fuji SIC RM350 Fuji LowRider SIC RM450+
Wrapping thread: RM15~20 each color
Epoxy: RM75 but i reckon sharing as you dont use much of the epoxy

The prices above are for reference only.

Tools required:
1. Drill
2. Sand paper
3. Empty box
4. Dictionary/phone book
5.10cc Syringe x2

DISCLAIMER: This method is not the best method and it would be a spinning hand tired spinning the threads onto the guides. There are no automation parts here, except for the drill and drying motor. This is the most basic way of rod building.

Bro 1D,
Bring this lure in please......

nice...

caught where?

Quick quick plan bro!!

The next round i'm heading north would be cheng beng...

satu kali kasi trip loh...

RM0.60 leader line...

There's this Okamoto brand one... Alpha(as in alpha logo)-Ex...

Not too bad and soft..