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 PROTON SAGA BLM, FL, FLX CLUB V35, Hali hali bikin keleta ooh, haiyoh...

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muslayer
post Nov 14 2012, 02:54 PM

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QUOTE(coolkwc @ Nov 14 2012, 02:51 PM)
Ok, quick review as a Continental CC5 owner.

Pros:
1. Dirt cheap, i got mine 150/piece for 175/70/R13.
2. Very silent when new, go through pothole with "tub" sound rather than "bang".
3. Super comfort when new, acceptable even now 33k mileage.
4. Wet grip decent, even running out of thread now. Well, i just compare to crap M3. So far din skid on wet road, last time M3 acc from 0 on wet road will scream if clutch release too fast.

Cons:
1. Well, comfort tyre with soft compound and sidewall, cornering is terrible when new, the body roll is worst. Now harden, so is ok. overall cornering grip is bad, heard creaming couple of time.
2. Silent for 1st 10k, after that thread worn, harden and noisy like previous.
3. Thread wear blazingly fast, now 33k only left 25% thread.
4. Related to 3rd, causing wet corneing grip is terrible. Bad for water clearance too.

So, if you ask me whether i'm going 2nd time for this tyre, the answer is "NO".

My next tyre probably would be Falken.
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R13 , not much choice, If R14 , can try Yokohama C-Drive 2
muslayer
post Nov 16 2012, 02:00 PM

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QUOTE(GP mad man @ Nov 16 2012, 01:51 PM)
was here~
just finish 400++ posts :star:
regarding battery, recently i ask SC check it.
indicator showing 10.2 (he said 11 is the best condition), saying it will kong soon... should i replace it ASAP to a new RAMCAR (rm290 from SC) or can slowly change to other brand (lower than 290 but i duno which brand is recommended)?

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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Buy from outside lo, RM 250 range for din 55
muslayer
post Nov 16 2012, 03:39 PM

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Ramcar battery was never dry, just that a maintainnce free, (use sticker seal the battery holes)
muslayer
post Nov 16 2012, 03:44 PM

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QUOTE(iskazulka @ Nov 16 2012, 03:41 PM)
my car 1 year + never checked.  cry.gif
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My ramcar battery lasted me 2 1/2 years with gc+vs
muslayer
post Nov 19 2012, 04:50 PM

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Add me to the list, hope can work with my 16bit ecu persona iafm

This post has been edited by muslayer: Nov 19 2012, 04:51 PM
muslayer
post Nov 21 2012, 04:18 PM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Nov 21 2012, 01:10 PM)
This is rather interesting, a few comments from magician.

1) Do you know those in-cabin voltage stabilizer bring absolutely no effect to your battery? Its pretty, can pretend like turbo timer, other than that the major function is to store small capacity to prevent power surge IN cabin accessories. Such as radio, cabin lights, dashboard meter. So, even if u have a huge VS in your engine bay, you still need a small VS to supply your head unit.

2) Do you know the whole car's grounding work are connected by the chassis frame work? Therefore when you step on your brakes, your brake lamp took electric from batter, and the negative back flow will have to go through your entire boot section, pass back to chassis frame/roof, go through your firewall, entire hood then finally channel it back to your battery. Nobody able to justify how much power loss in between!

3) Do you know simply putting ground cable everywhere can improve the grounding work? I supposed you know, but the extra ground cable only send CERTAIN amount back to battery -ve pole. The rest of the discharge still have to go through huge obstacle(chassis frame) before going back to battery. Theoretically, if your car's ground work is already optimal, by adding extra ground cable can mean create more obstacle for the ground flow. Its similar to when u driving in federal haiway with a band of GaGa kaki convoy, some choose Jln Universiti exit(assume this is the chassis grounding), some choose Sec 11(extra grounding) route, some get out from Hilton(another ground cable), then a small group diverted from Sec 14 get out from Sec 17(from radiator tank pull 1 ground cable to engine rocker cover). As a result, those reach earlier in SS2 will have to wait for other smart asses for a wonderful TT.

Therefore, unless chassis grounding insufficient(traffic jam in Jln Universiti), by putting extra grounding might cost negative effect.

Info source: H&K Accessories, Dengkil, Sepang
P/s: The above input is based on magician's personal opinion, and may not represending the whole truth. I just find it interesting and wish to confirm with our electrical/electronic engineers in the forum. Cheers.
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Grounding..will follow the shortest path and most conductive area back to negative battery terminal.

muslayer
post Nov 21 2012, 11:18 PM

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QUOTE(KennethFoo24 @ Nov 21 2012, 11:09 PM)
hi guys, going for my 15k service.... however my dad insists that i service outside.... but my car STILL has that tak tak tak rhythmic knocking.... so i should take it back to proton and have it replaced right ? .... one question.... is the warranty for one year ? coz one year already passed.... they replaced the brakes for me after the 10k service however after around 12k, the rhythmic knocking s back....

how much cheaper is it to service outside ? isnt the engine oil prices same everywhere ? agak.... only the labour charges are different rite ? tongue.gif  tongue.gif 

much appreciated if u guys take the time to help me !
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Standard warranty is 2 years or 50k KM which ever come first. If want to claim spare parts, better go CoSE at shah alam

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