TQ Z1 for the confirmation. However, I have more finding in 1 day, may be more than erictioh himself. Here we go for the detail:

Initially, after magician charged the VS from a static charger, we saw its already stable at 13.9V, so I disconnect it, bring it over to the car. As I walked towards my car, I figured the LED started to dim. Until I fully loosen the terminal, reconnect the VS, I figured it started to discharge drastically. Magician use a test meter to load the VS, left 11.8 volt. Magician was dulan, ripped off the VS & found inside lined up with rolls after rolls of capacitor. We found the voltage was 16V. So magician quickly came to a conclusion, reason for 16V is bcoz our car charging at 14.5V optimal, terefore a 12V capacitor could overheat very quickly, that's why eric ue 16V instead. However, the downside will be current quickly get discharged if not fully charged at 16V. That 1 hour when I was posting my previous post has gone down to drain, waste of time to dry run the capacitors.

2nd round, we disconnect the wires from the terminal, left the terminal attached at the battery, we took the entire battery + terminal hooked up with the VS,charge the entire battery+VS at the sametime for 2 hours! After that, we disconnect static charger. This time we tested reading stays at 13.2V for more than 10seconds togather with the battery!!! "Dry run in" success!!! We hook back up the whole battery + VS, everything is in order. We start the engine as usual.

Result was slightly better than my usual drive. I hit the pedal, there's significant improved on throttle lag response. I can see some different this time despite the VS was in the car for long time previously. Call it placebo, but it does show some difference. I do not have ECU "NUT" tunning in my car, so any improvement on engine response can be felt immediately. Pedal response is immediate. I hit the road for a long test drive whole afternoon until now, reach Kemuning, waiting for Nazri in the car typing this message. Overall, erictioh VS is very useable after a PROPER run in. Believe it or not, I've been using the VS since August, I have never felt the effect until today - get to fully charge the damn thing with a static charger!!! If compare it with the expansive VS my poison master sg999 is using, I believe its nothing to compare. Erictioh VS still lose half a kilometer. The initial acceleration has been improved, but the pedal lifting response still lag. I believe it improved a little bit, but when I drag from 1,2,3,4th gear, the lifting response still can be seen. For example, 1st gear WOT, the car went BEM.......6.5krpm,declutch,lift gas pedal,RPM suddenly jumped to 6.8krpm whilst I'm engaging 2nd gear.

Magician got a theory, but wasn't able to prove it. However, I'd like to share it here for speculation. The reason for my VS not fully functional despite its been running in my car for 3 months, its because our alternator voltage was not static. Before the medium/large capacitor being fully charged, aircon kicks in & draw power off from the small caps. Everytime we off engine, voltage drops back to 12V, and that is not running the VS afterall. Do remember we found out those capacitors was 16V. In order to have optimal charging, it needs 16V, so 14V charging could take much-much more longer time to "run in" the capacitors, may be years. So, we guess it could be the case that when the capacitors are fully charged, the driver already got used to it and forgotten the goodness of having VS assistance. We believe erictioh couldn't use anything lower than 16V otherwise the VS reliability will become questionable.

Lastly, we conclude that everytime we disconnect the VS, it needed another full run in before we can feel the effect of a fully functional voltage stabilizer.

Thanks for the explaination. But it makes me more confuse. How the hell stomping your engine bay and whacking your ECU can improve throttle response?

hahaha. its sure the main reason
but sometime its better treat our car gently rather go make alignmet many times

put aside road pothole as it cannot be expected anywhere in malaysian road. but take a look at those roads especailly housing area with speed bump. i see some driver dont care on speed bump and just drive fast bypass it. its one of many reason (or for i should say the primary cause) our car alignment become misalign. i as driver if i see speed bump, i'll keep my car slow as possible and drove it gently.... evene the smallest speed bump ever. at least 1, for long time period my alignment in place; 2, my passanger wont jump up to the roof

but sometime those arrogant driver with their hoo and haa dugong and bandar just go off speed bump at hillarious speed, just to show that toyoga, hando car can keep up the pace and their suspension is better. they never realize acutally they've tortured car alignment. at the end, whole set steering rack aligment damaged. godaipls 

even at my housing area, a gallardo driver drive very slow when goes on speed bump 

the moment IAFM kick in, that is the moment you don't feel like lifting up your foot lol..just wnat to keep the engine going , going and going 
thanks Dares for the explanation  Am I right that IAFM work more efficient than VIM found in CPS? what I mean in term of efficient is that I can feel the "kick or acceleration" when IAFM come in which is more obvious in my Saga than in Exora. Or izzit Exora too heavy therefore can't feel the "kick" even though VIM come in?

I bet Exora bold should have more "ohmmm" due to its CFE engine, hopefully one day I can drive it and feel the difference 

if CPS kicked in at 4k rpm, how about IAFM+?

true to say, since i drive FLX SE, didn feel kick in at any rpm. just press pedal then gain constant speed. at 2k rpm, speed star climbing graduately. above 2k rpm, feels more fun... 

Not correct leh.
Sos

So actually, to say IAFM "kicks in" is a misnomer, as the IAFM is constantly working. The so-called "kicks-in" is when the runners are switched from long to short at 4.4k RPM.

Remember I told you guys that I changed to a custom thermostat? Here are some results:

Readings taken from my daily drive to work. At above average cruising speed, the temperature here shows 81C, while the original thermostat keeps the temperature at 88-91C because whenever the coolant is cooled by moving air, the thermostat shuts the coolant flow.


When I slow down my cruising speed, the temperature can go further down:


This was taken when I went home, it was a rainy cold day. I drove the car at average cruising speed: