ah keh , just said both the clubs. i'm in both clubs.

the number plates are obvious not in the middle if you're using those 2 lines type of plates.

as for the single line plates it's still reasonably middle looking.

i think it's party due to the engine design where the oil filter is slightly off to the driver side. so they need to create a hole for the hands to reach it, so to cover the hole number plate would be mounted slightly off.

his name is deanz.

it's a 1/2 cut, he fabricated the mountings.

if not mistaken it's the rare opti model.

the new iswara is rather too...........fugly and then with the new facelift the exhaust noise is terrible. it looks like a tank with those bumpers.

i got a kelisa instead of iswara. i got the same question like you last time. 8k differ is quite a sum. just give a test drive of both car.

frankly if space is what you need go for iswara. comfort in spaciousess but the exhaust noise is another topic, it's too noisy.

if you wanted zippy acceleration, kelisa is the one. seriously it live up to it's 'engineered for fun' motto.

for previous 1.60 per lit fuel it could get me 430 at rm41, mainly at urban driving, lot's of driving through major traffic jam area entire week.

This post has been edited by andychee81: Mar 11 2006, 09:50 AM

well i thing for sure i would prefer new tech than old tech. it got power steering, 2 power front window and in built nokia handsfree. f/c is better, better acceleration and easy to navigate in tight areas. i'm living in an urban area so i would hardly travel on highway. did went to johor and penang with it. high speed some could reach more than the meter could show(new edition one heard got speed cut at 140kmph) but not recommended it's power steering would be too 'floaty'. most importantly i'm assured the quality control is slightly better, not too sure on current QC on proton but last time proton qc and warranty was very bad.

i having the se old model manual. recommended take manual instead of auto. but then it's stll up to your preference. sometimes kelisa on auto also scary fast.

better make sometime test drive both cars instead of relying on opinions. it's the best way to compare them.

This post has been edited by andychee81: Mar 11 2006, 10:42 AM

Iswara specs

ENGINE : 4G13 12V SOHC
BORE X STROKE : 71 mm x 82 mm
TOTAL DISPLACEMENT: 1298 cc
COMPRESSION RATIO : 9.5:1
MAXIMUM OUTPUT : 62 kW (83hp) @ 6000 rpm
MAXIMUM TORQUE : 109 Nm @ 4000 rpm
FUEL SYSTEM :Carburettor
FUEL TANK CAPACITY : 45 litre
TRANSMISSION : 5FM21, 5 speed manual
FINAL GEAR RATIO : 4.322
POWER ASSISTED STEERING : Standard
CURB WEIGHT : 970 kg


Kelisa 1.0

Engine Type : Water-cooled, 4 cycle , in-line, transverse engne
Valve mechanism : DOHC-4 valve per cylinder
Total displacement (cc): 989cc
Bore x stroke (mm) : 72 x 81
Compression : 10.1
Max. Output : 40.5 KW / 5200rpm
Max. torque : 88.3 Nm / 3600rpm
Fuel system : EFI
Fuel tank capacity (liter) : 40
Weight : 806kg


iswara might have the bigger HP and slighly higher torque, but more heavier at 100kg.

why not consider savvy?

kelisa 1.0 model all comes with power steering, only the 850 ones dun have i think

@ terencetoo
the stock cd have in built nokia handsfree, if you change it you won't able to use it. but then i'm using sony ericsson....i changed to better ones.

air con. no prob with it. the vents are quite close to the passenger in front.

full tank would be 45lit.

the saga design was taken from mitsu previously. it's a tech transfer kind of deal.

dunno la, last time i asked them to leave this and that they said cannot coz it's standard acc.

ehehe i follow the spec from the website.

SE royal blue~~~ here.

lot's of them. just head to the club website.

15" for kelisa is rather heavy, it's optimal would be at 14". unless you can afford lightweight 15".

the ori suspension is good nuff unless you go for somewhat spirited driving and dun care less on comfort or passengers go for springs, i've tred from kimex, dr.spring, t-speed, h&r, eibach, eventually you'll have to change your absorber too using them. for now i'm using adjustables where by there's still comfort yet same handling as spring mod onli. if got cash save up and go full blown adjustables, adjust the comfort and handling up to your liking. you got titan and hwl to choose

VS and grounding can be for last mod, not much differ as i felt, opt for extractor and rear end piping. go for powerzone or hotbits. try not those cap ayam ones.

open pod once again not recommended for kelisa unless you can route the air from outside as the open pod would be usually sitting directly behind the radiator, no matter what heat shield you put also will suck some hot air from it. there's one piping named hurricane where the ram connects from the trottle body to the eft hand side far away from the raidator, but then i see the tubing is rather huge and there's 180 turn after the trttlebody, might slow down the air flow speed. try sucking a drink from a huge straw and have 180 turn, and another one smaller size. you'll get what i mean. recommended is using drop in types ie. pipercross or KNN.

turbochargers well for bolt on gonna set you back bout 1.5k+. boosting would be limited to small range. dunno bout you, but i seen many guys complaint bout their bolt on not performing like they expected and they sold it off.

enjoy your fishy mods~~~~

This post has been edited by andychee81: Mar 13 2006, 08:49 AM

for myvi, i think head to myviclub.com for ideas. i have no idea what mod thy got.

strut bar you got zenden and ultraracing to choose from. both tested they are good products.

those VS and grounding only give tiny amount of improvement. so better use your money on other things first.

open pod. well kelisa engine bay is pretty cramped and open pod drectly from the trottle body is not ideal as the hot air from the radiator finds it's way to it, hot air=no good. you can use a cold air intake hose from the front grill to the filter to rectify it. i would recommend use those replacement types instead of open pod.

seriously i'm still in learning process, better head to kelisaclub.com and ask the guys there.

APM = Kayaba

entry level they give sligth improvement but still not up to a level of mid range or higher range of brands, it's just feel like original just bout 10% stiffer. each ppl got differ handling 'feeling' i dislike bodyroll yet hate bumpy feeling.

no doubt APM performax range gives me back some comfort i need when i'm using progressive springs like H&R.

rather than trial and error between spring and absorber it's very hard to match each spring with a correct brand of absorber, full set adjustables is cheaper in long term.

i'm no guru, but i'm giving my honest non bias opinion on products i've used on my car b4. higher speed need better brakes.

if you wanted to keep the stock calipers you can change your disc to axt cross drill/slotted ones and match it with EBC pads. fast braking response but overheat darn easy, good nuff for urban roads but not on downhill speeding it seems this combination like the disc heats up the pad much easier than stock disc with EBC. i'm not sure bout bendix, but it's claimed to have a very good braking and it's affordable BUT!! long term your disc will be skimmed much faster, i've seen it on my friend's car.

if you wanted something bigger and just PnP, caliper and disc you can use L9 ones, you got project u pads and sumitomo ori pads to choose from and i've just received a tip that myvi ones also can be put on the car w/out modding anything, you got normal pads and endless pads to choose from.

or just get those steel braided hose and change your brake fluid to DOT4 and above. changed your braking feeling. much direct feel no spongy effect.

and drive safely.

This post has been edited by andychee81: Mar 13 2006, 11:43 PM

cheap and reputable shop can go for aircool. http://www.aircool.com.my/home.htm

i did mine at the HQ site at rm350. lowest end wan la.