1) Canister purge valve(Pictar too big, click spoiler to see)

It's well above 100 + labor charge.

2) Intake Air Fuel Module - IAFM

I heard the module alone cost 400, with labor got up to 500 is not a surprise

They're not slaughtering you. However, most IAFM problem was the purge valve instead of the module itself.

It seems like both system are built in the same ECU. If you know dumb terminal, I guess that pretty much the same.

Its virtually 1 side of the computer uses to do all the engine management, the other side of the computer was split became transmission controller. My reader couldn't read both side of the brain at the same time. When I plug in and detect ECU, it shows dual ECU ID inside. I can only select 1 at anyone time. The 1st ECU ID selected show most of the basic indicator such as radiator core temperature, fan temperature, fuel/hour consumption, fuel/km consumption, idling speed, velocity and stuff. However, when I reboot the system and selected 2nd ECU ID, it detects up to 133 sensors inside the whole 2nd brain is controlling. I'm guessing my reader was overwhelmed by the amount of data feeding in. The thing felt like hang gei like that.

Yours is a OBD data puller, mine is a scanner Mine can pull data, set data, read fault code, reset fault code, program overdrive for dugong, maintenance reminder

Later will post in [WTS] since kenot be use

No more warranty meh? IAFM supposed to be included in the 3 years limited warranty rite

Forgot to poke you tim yesterday May be only FLX SE sohightek? I wish to confirm it with a 1.3 CBT and another FLX 5MT

sorry I was too gan jeong that time may I poke you, since Alister and Luke both in Singapore now So I guess its ok for us to poke here

Shite, those cables are expansive!!! 1 meter already cost $80 Not even mention silver cable How much you got those for?

Holiday, format a PC, install DOS ver 6.2 & play old games

if u dunno, dun simply say people fail its call tokyo drift you idiot

because 4G13P only produce 73bhp - Refer wiki

But it also depends on driver

If you buy new/used car wanna do insurance outside, you'll have to let the used car dealer know before hand. The only bank that tied up with insurance is AmBank, you will have to take AmAssurance no other choice. Meanwhile you will also have to buy MRTA for your car, incae if u die/permenant disabled your insurance company will settle the car loan. Proper way to secure yourself a deal is:

1) Pay minimum deposit, get the sales person apply loan for you. If your kulit kerbau thick enough, no need to pay deposit. Normally sales person will start to collect runner fee & adminstration fee liao, so depends how pandai you are la.

2) Once loan approved, u take the vehicle detail go do OPEN COVER for new registration car, TRANSFER OF OWNERSHIP cover note for used car. Once you have the cover note, fax it back to the bank then you're ready to become the new owner.

Why they always refused to let you do insurance outside? Because of the 10% commission. Its not can not, its don't wanto do

I'm not an agent, and will not join "K" company or any other insurance company as an agent for the time being due to conflict of interest The rest, I refused to comment due to company policy

Both my company and "K" company undergo some merging and changes, so it is very sensitive now. Hope you understand

Road condition very bad, stay safe bro

Gabby's average cornering speed is 80kmh, not only me Now I know why oftenly after corner I keep on kena cucuk by people

Ok! New project begun! RM200 to be invested on altenator positive welding cable, to upgrade 400amp cable for maximum charging quality!!!

I'm driving GaGa to work today. Ayam so poisoned by sg999's BLM. The engine response, acceleration, torque lifting, all gone south with the feeling of my stock BLM. I was down shifting when I hit Jinjang over a traffic light T junction, after heel & toe from 3rd gear to 2nd, as I step on my clutch pedal, RPM roaring up(delay lifting) despite I already released gas pedal. As I downshift to 2nd gear, I hit the gas pedal, RPM was lagged behind(delay acceleration), as & when I release my clutch pedal, suddenly RPM shoot up(delay lifting again) despite I already release gas pedal!!! As a result, the whole vehicle hesitaed in to an embarrassing jerk! I hate the throttle response!!!!! I hate stock setup!!!!!

I was wrong about grounding importance. I was wrong about VS effectiveness. What matter is the quality of these accessories. In near future few weeks, I will be suferring finding a cheap/effective way to improve the conduction/impedance current in my BLM. This will be a 1 time deal. When I decided to do whatever mods, I will be calling for a short term bulk order. If you're ready, standby to bore a small hole in your wallet. My budget to complete this mod within RM300 by stages.

Contnue my journey to Cheras/Kajang/Dengkil/Banting/Jenjarom/Panglima Garang/SiJangKang/Botanic/Shah Alam for the day... continue suffer in stock delayed acceleration/lifting with my poor stock BLM! Argghhhh!!!! I hate sg999!!!! Hate you for introducing how bad my BLM is! Knowing my car has the potential but wasn't able to achieve the same is a real pain in the butt

For tidiness of cables in engine bay, you do not need special clip(unless you really plan to invest and going commercial like a show car). I don't have a sample right now, but you may refer C2KBUS2005 unker choy's Iswaga. I think I did a master piece grounding work on that car. Wiring was tied up with cable tie only, but was crossed tightened on each joint to make every cable parrellel with other existing cables. Sorry the car is no longer with me, if unker willing to post a photo of those pretty cables in the engine bay, u'll get to see how I tidy up.

This is rather interesting. I'm in magician's shop in Dengkil, charging my VS. The story begun with an hour ago when I reached here from Kajang since my last post regarding VS+grounding works.

As I reached, I told magician about sg999's BLM edition, told him the special effect by adding only VS + grounding cable. To my surprised, his reply was agreeable with a sound theory behind! An actual good quality VS composed by several different grade of capacitor. In order to charge the higher grade capacitor, the medium grade capacitor has to be fully charged. In order to charge the medium grade capacitor, lower grade capacitor has to be fully charged. In order to fully charge a capacitor, one required stable current supply(which road vehicle doesn't have). So, a quality VS required very long driving hours to achieve its full potential. In short, it required run in before it able to performed to its best!!!!! If VS not fully run in, before the medium/high grade capacitor being fully charged, the low grade capacitor can be quickly discharged. As a result, the medium/high capacitor will be always thirst of running current. And therefore, by putting in a VS, initially it will give negative effect to the whole electrical system, until its fully run in.

So, now its being charging for an hour++. Later plonk it back in and see if there's any difference. My BLM has been gone low mileage for the past 2 months due to my Mrs seldom use it. It is possible that the erictioh VS not properly run in, and therefore couldn't see the "real" effect of VS. Finger crossewd