LC2K for seb petrol mia wor Lu mau pickup response ka? Or seb petrol? I'm conpius now

I only been to Terengganu twice in my life, but the road is damn empty and smooth surface lor! I've seen big rims, low profile tyres running everywhere

That thing not so easy rosak geh besides if it rosak, it would become unable to shut,not unable to open

I have very much experience in opening glove compartment on BLM/FL/FLX/Gabby/MyBi/BiBa. Most of the time if any of these box weren't able to open, there possibility inside too many things, until user purposely force ut to close. Next thing you know it become stuck because the barang inside stuck with the dashboard if you force the handle, too bad you're really gonna break it, & u will not be able to shut ur glove compartment anymore.

1 of the way is lean yourself at the passenger floor, force your arm going over the back of your glove compartment, pull out as much stuff as you can, so the locking mechanism can fully function again. After ensuring the glove compartment is free from any storage, you may also lubricate the lock before you try to open it. Do remember after open ady wipe it clean, otherwise the WD40 is going to haunt you for a long-long time

No need to poke the key inside your head la. Can put sideway as long as any of the plastic surface touches your head, you'll be able to extend the wave signal to the air. Reason being, you're standing on the floor, and your brain had became the amplifier, your whole body became the antenna to blast the radio frequency further to arm/disarm your central lock lor

Been using this trick for many years liao Use it more often, can actually boil your brain protein

Below 400km & above 300km is very normal, especially when you say city drive, that is consider very good fuel efficiency liao . However, if you're talking about haiwei drib also unable to hit 400km, either you go refill petrol before warning indicator up? Or you did not fill up the brim . If you do a quick run from JB to Ipoh, that will be ngam² 500km 1 tank petrol with none stop 90km cruising.

Try 1 in KL, like myself every day going in and out of town, provided all my routes are super heavy traffic, some route I need to take during super peak hours I have trouble to struggle for 300km a tank

Normally a week or 2. Your registration card will always use the year make according to factory "birth cert" instead of registration date. When you see people advertise on used car saying 2010/2012, meaning the car was made on 2010, but registered 2012. It could be imported car, prior 2012 was registered in other country, and recently imported to local and registered locally. If you go Plotong buy a Sabby now, you'll also get a NEW Plotong Sabby with 5 years warranty, but registration card will be year make 2010, registration date 2012

Generally if you wanna sell your car to used car dealer, if you car make date is 2011/December, it will worth atleast RM2k less than 2012/January. But then, when you buy a year end car, you get so much of discount and free gift, and you get nothing on January car, probably after booking/downpayment you'll have to wait for a month before you get to collect the car It's a give and take situation lar. You don't try to ask me what would I do, because I figured all this out so in the end I decided I will not buy new car

You have my number from the poslaju slip. Drop me a msg before you come, we go midnight run awhile

After that go home wax at own kapak lot

Mudah 1 - New registration 2010 car
Wait until before Christmas, go and see the salesman, you'll probably get the car for RM27k

Mudah 2 - New registration 2010 car, 15k discount
Call now and ask what price they're letting go, probably a show room unit. If down to 25k, faster buy!!!!

Anyway, Sabby ady became pain in the ass for all the showrooms, as some of the cars they already paid rock hard cash to own it at the showroom(after certain period wasn't able to sell off). Why they stop production? I'm not going to touch it too much here, you may proceed to the half dead Sabby tered around the konar(V4 since 2005). Anyway, just don't buy AMT for the record. Mark my word, there's tons of seller in Mudah selling their AMT Sabby, some as new as 2009/2010 for very low price. Even lower then their loan balance, that's because AMT is well known problem maker for all Sabby. Just remember, these Plotong dealers already owned the car for years and weren't able to sell it off, you have every rights and power to negotiate with them. And the last thing is, try your luck in December, they're generally desperate during that time. Later the better. Who knows you go put down a deposit on 31st December, 2012, you get super duper discount + super duper free gift also getting the car registered on 2013

p/s: When the salesman know you want manual car, they will purposely say the AMT is manual and confuse you with all kinds of Automatic Manual Transmission or something shiete. Dai-dai also dun want listen to them. Manual is manual, auto is auto. Don't buy AMT unless you know how to fix it without bore a hole in your wallet

This post has been edited by davidke20: Nov 11 2012, 06:54 PM

Kenot komplen

Any car lar, as long as year end buy sure discount 9 9 mia(besides dewgong and its toyol family, yes they don't discount unless salesman rebate their commission to you)

From what I'm looking at, your car does not have an external fuel regulator at the fuel rail, it's an FLX. It is IAFM+, not IAFM. According to some senior member, IAFM+ were made stronger compare to old IAFM module that always picah

IAFM rosak render the sound "tub tub tub tub tub" from the right side of the intake manifold, where the PURGE VALVE located.


The same car as above, after repaired the rosaked IAFM, only rendered the similar tepet sound like minor "tak tak tak tak tak" sound on the rocker cover.


A more effective way you can identify is:


1) If can hear loud tak tak tak tak tak sound, at this point means the exhaust valve lifter bising, go claim warranty
2) If can hear loud tak tak tak tak tak sound, at this point means the intake valve lifter bising, go claim warranty
3) If can hear loud tub tub tub tub tub sound, at this point means the purge valve sudah koyak, go claim warranty

However, for 1 & 2 is insignificant. Replace or not replace does not really helps to eliminate the noise, its just the way how hydraulic valve lifter works. When enough lubricants, no noise. When not enough lubricant, especially cold start, aircon compressor kicks in, these are the time most car will have loud valve lifter noise. If you think your car is loud, try those Honda B16/B18 series engine, also not forget Plotong Pugra & Wigra 1.8 with 4G93 engine, their valve lifter is much louder than most yellow black diesel taxi.

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Added on November 12, 2012, 9:42 amP/s: if you use the screwdriver method to troubleshoot, make sure you have not wear any extra accessories such as necklace, necktie, long sleeve. If you're long hair, make sure you tie it up properly. The method itself is safe to use, but those extra accessories become life threatening if screwed up. Besides, you probably don't wanto dirty yourself with those things hanging around touches your engine bay. be safe

This post has been edited by davidke20: Nov 12 2012, 09:42 AM

Woi! Al Ashad Maju TT huai aint kaun me in? I wanna make this unoehuat penetration session as well! huwanna let me penetrate

Here cums da animated tikus flood guys please stop, be considerate. Post 1 or 2 ok lar, post so march my fon hang everytime I reload the page unoela ranjiao berry takes 10 minutes everytime restart

Kenjilew:
Shell is good, can save up to 1 litre per tank! Guguman sohigh mileage per tank oso use Shell

Bring PoPi please, wanna penetrate unoehuat

Steering got noise issue:

1) If the whipipipipipip sound from engine bay, & only happened acceleration during corner, most likely ACC belt longgar/tensioner koyak. End it for replacement/tighten.

2) If every corner also sqwarking likr ark ark ark sound everytime u turn the steering wheel, powah steering fluid talak sukup, kasi tambah. Meanwhile check for leaking. By right the oil level will not go down. I drive Plotong Wigra so many years, besides of oil change, I had nvr bother to top up unless got oil leak which require immediate rectification.

3) If only happen ngek ngek sound inside cabin when turning steering, then its the ignal contact point lack of grease. Should take out steering wheel apply grease on the copper contact surface.

If all above 3 is kenot rectify, and you still hear eek ekk ork ork sound, most probably steering rod sudah bengkok. Congratulations! You hit the jackpot liao

This apply to all hydraulic powah steering cars. So its general knowledge.

Those who wanted to sabotage exhaust pipe:

If its standard exhaust pipes, there's several ice cream potong inside, all not connected. By stuffing insufflex, it will drop down to the muffler box. The more you stuff, the better exhaust noise deadening.

Inorder to make someone's exhaust ruptured, its better to stuff POTATO. Organic form of starch can stick the pipes. Exhaust air will not be able to get through and the exhaust muffler will be sufocating. Until the box can't stand, then the whole muffler will explode

If you only want a short term effect, just buy 1 potato & stuff the exhaust tip. Exhaust can't get out, car can't start but that's all and will not permanant harm the exhaust pipe. To start back the car, use chopstick to poke a hole at the potato, after start fev few tims the frenfries will fly out liao

Good luck & have fun I take taxi tonight TT.

Take taxi bcoz I expect u guys gonna bring potato & insuflex to give exhaust treatment liao, so I better take taxi lo

I'm Sri Damansara, I just showered and finish catching up all the posts

Anyway, its a good TT that changed my point of view. Thanks to sg999 for showing me the significant of useful ground cable, voltage stabilizer and a blardy thick welding cable that stuck with the alternator Before I able to step on your gas pedal, I was still wondering it should be some placebo or virtually minimal effect, but I was wrong. The good combination of those VS, grounding bank and also the thick wire did significantly reduce throttle lag to virtually NONE. By hitting the gas pedal, I know there's still lag, but couldn't feel it. I still know its a DbW, but it seems instantaneous. The shift stick still spongy like a shit soaked butter finger, just like what a BLM should be. But the throttle response had been significantly improved. Definitely no doubt about it. This is by far the best BLM I've seen/drove before. I will give some thought to it and try my luck with quality amp cable by DIY a set of grounding bank

Along the way driving home, I've put some thought to what have inside sg999's car was the significant improvement of conduction. So I took a wild guess, could it be stable firing that reduce the need of powering up the ignition coil? If you all remember, I already figured the throttlebody itself is NOT lag. When you put your leg on the pedal, the throttle body DID open at the same time, what trouble me was the response of any other consequences after the throttle work, such as ignition timing, miscalculation of fuel injection rate. So, with stable electricity, ignition coil generate instant power(if you don't already know ignition coil need to transform the tiny 12V to 30,000V), so here goes the theory. If your car does not have good electricity conduction, it takes longer time to charge the 12V up to the ignition 30,000V. Without good grounding work, negative ion will not be able to send back to the battery source fast enough, as a result the bad chain reaction more lag and even more lagging everytime you wide open your throttlebody.

So I have a brief conclusion, its not the throttlebody, it could be the wrong calculation of ignition timing. It could be the wrong calculation of fuel injected rate. Watch video below, you'll get the idea our GaGa actually has the same throttle flap response just like any other DbW vehicle, the only thing I concern now is, what happen after WOT


Time to sleep:o

There's no doubt about the sluggish throttle response of a standard BLM without all the mod you have. You ask me, I tell you the truth. I seriously does not think those "HK5" cable works as well as yours, infact I dont feel shit when its on my BLM. However, they improved ICE on my Sabby once I transferred over. You heard my standard speaker, they performed like a charm, more like a 10inch sub is powered up.

Again, its not like nobody wanna tiao you last time, its we don't know how to deal with it. How do you expect I react on a welding cable? Infact I remember some member asked you before where to do that So in the end, I still remember there's a person with the welding cable, again we didn't know it helped so much My next project is going to the welding supplier and look for AA conductor, if budget allowed most probably I'm going pure SILVER for the alternator.

Again, thanks for giving me an eye opener

If you can still negotiate corner at slow speed, meaning it's not steering rack problem. It looks more like you lose your tyre traction. Tell me they're Silverstone M3/M5

Thank you for your participation so far, sad to see the FLX SE go, but its a good thing to have PoPi. In the end, it's an UPGRADE. Please continue join us who "stuck" with local production brand that doesn't require a QC.

My brother's BiBa 850 did outrun a PoPo before (you'll have to understand under certain traffic condition, only BiBa and Gancil can drive through )

Welcome to the neighborhood

Calm down clam down. We need a peaceful environment to talk it out