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 Alternator & Starter Overhaul Shop, 40 years of experience

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SUSAllnGap
post Nov 13 2018, 05:53 PM

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QUOTE(NotTheOne @ Nov 13 2018, 05:41 PM)
Jerk and sometimes come to full stop. Wait then start to drive again.
If on AC car jerk and stop faster.

Bad news now is even after the alternator can provide stable Voltage, the same symptoms returned.
Can anyone suggest what could be worth checking? Spark plugs have been replaced to new set.
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I don't know you drive what car or is it the same problem.
On saga blm same problem occur. Couple of months ago, start engine without AC only can run. If with AC, it'll drag the engine and cause engine to die.

At first send to nearby mech, I ask him to increase RPM, he said it's all controlled by ECU, so can't. (That time it didn't die when AC turn on).

Then later AC problem came, sent it to more honest mech, he said this problem very normal with saga blm.
Need to clean throttle body & if possible clean intake valves. After clean it no more engine die.

There are intake valve spray that you can diy yourself also

This post has been edited by AllnGap: Nov 13 2018, 06:13 PM
SUSAllnGap
post Nov 13 2018, 10:48 PM

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QUOTE(NotTheOne @ Nov 13 2018, 08:45 PM)
I drive Toyota Vios SE 2013

Voltage checked already all showing good battery and good alternator.

Timing belt was in good condition, so maybe timing is ok too..

I suspect AC compressor drawing too much current and causing no power to fire the spark plugs, but I want to know if anyone got other suggestions?
and also intake valve
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throttle body is the control centre for the air intake, when u press on pedal throttle body will open its mouth
if the jerk is coming when it's low RPM (idling), so the throttle body is not functioning well as it could not maintain smooth airflow.
either throttle body or the O2 sensor there going crazy. (sensor can get dirty as well, or fail)

When turn on AC, the drag simply pulls the engine and kills it. nothing to do with AC, it's the throttle body cant maintain its function.

better to service it and see got difference or not.
some mechanics might ask you to ended up changing throttle body, O2 sensor, but the problem is just that it's dirty.


user posted image




watch this if your engine is jerking when idling.



This post has been edited by AllnGap: Nov 13 2018, 11:01 PM
SUSAllnGap
post Nov 14 2018, 03:33 PM

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QUOTE(voscar @ Nov 14 2018, 01:42 PM)
i guess could be when they working on the alternator, they disconnected the battery terminals. After that the ECU need to relearn the settings again and more obvious jerking when come to traffic stop.
used to drive older gen Toyota Altis and Perodua Kelisa, both exhibits same behavior after battery disconnect and reconnect. Need at least 1-2 months of driving to get rid of this irritate jerking...
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Won't take so long. A week or two maybe for it to familiarise.
But dirty throttle body & air sensors can cause stupid problems that you can never think off. Can cause engine light turn on, then you panic and ended up spending thousands.

Later change alternator, spark plug, battery, starter ding-dong when the real problem is it's dirty n couldn't operate normally


SUSAllnGap
post Nov 14 2018, 03:37 PM

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QUOTE(NotTheOne @ Nov 14 2018, 03:23 PM)
Thank you very much!

TB was dirty. The exhaust (O2) sensor was found to be faulty. Air filter was changed too.

Timing was checked - all ok.

Will update if the problem returns.

Thank you once again for your time AllnGap
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Your car no more jerking d ??

All smooth ?? That throttle body should be serviced like every year or 2years once.
Car will feel better, power immediately deliver
SUSAllnGap
post May 23 2019, 08:10 AM

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QUOTE(Zot @ May 23 2019, 07:59 AM)
The battery warning light is indicator that the battery is not charging or low voltage. So, either battery or alternator is bad. Mine nothing at all and suddenly engine died. I can't recall if there is indicator long enough on display. I think it is not total failure. After a while due to chemical reaction, I can start the car again and drove car home 1km away. smile.gif
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If have voltmeter would it be easier ?
Cuz when driving voltage should be around 14.

If it's like 12.5 then alternator not working.
SUSAllnGap
post May 23 2019, 08:55 AM

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QUOTE(Zot @ May 23 2019, 08:53 AM)
The multimeter measurement is not that reliable measure. If the battery cannot hold charge that good, after driving your battery voltage would probably show good voltage but store less power. Multimeter is just measurement of voltage but not how much power has been stored. Voltage level is quite meaningless for this purpose.

Voltage low cam be either battery or alternator. Anyway, who would check battery on regular basis like every morning before go to work  biggrin.gif
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I mean voltage on alternator.
Cuz alternator not working the voltage won't be 14
SUSAllnGap
post May 23 2019, 09:04 AM

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QUOTE(Zot @ May 23 2019, 09:01 AM)
This is on troubleshooting stage already after failure suspicion, should there be sign of it. For me, I'd just go to nearby workshop to check because they usually do not charge for simple check like this  laugh.gif
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i think safe to assume that after 15years or more than 200,000km all the things upcar d
SUSAllnGap
post May 28 2019, 07:27 PM

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my old car at 195,000km confirm got lots of problem.

AC = sometimes compressor dont run (suspect clutch KO)
alternator = car left there for weeks, after jumpstart drive 20min also cant start, new battery btw. alternator should be dead
starter = cant start smoothly

looks like gotta ask them refurbish all 3

This post has been edited by AllnGap: May 28 2019, 07:28 PM
SUSAllnGap
post Jan 28 2020, 09:00 PM

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QUOTE(cempedaklife @ Jan 28 2020, 07:40 PM)
My car already 8 years old 126k km. Wonder if i should service my alternator before it breaks? No symptom, battrry also last as per normal.
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Alternator inside has some carbon brush and ball bearings

If your battery can't charge properly then alternator might on its way.

My old kenari alternator kacau around 190,000km.

I think yours still have plenty of life in it

 

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