point taken

it can go either way....

correct setup...gain

wrong setup... lose

well...getting the pipe size correct is one thing.. dont la go put 3" pipes on ur 1.5

alot of diff factors from pipe size... pipe bends, type of bends, muffler, centre box/bullet... amount of centre box, bullet etc could contribute to it.

best to find another car which has the same engine and find out if their exhaust setup has benefitted them

if not steel then wat?

which is?

stock materials are either cast iron (mostly) or steel. the main reason why stock extractors wont heat up the engine bay so much is coz they have heatshields on them... u will rarely see a bare stock extractor (unless pureposely removed which imho, is stupid as it works well and even looks better... stock extractors are fugly...)

aftermarket extractors wont be able to fit under those heatshields and hence are usually exposed and will dissipate the heat freely into the engine bay...so either ceramic coat (expensive) it or thermal wrap (cheap) it if ur worried.

but if u put a bare cast iron header vs steel header.. the difference in heat is negligible in regards to engine bay heat....

the other way round dood

4-2-1 benefits more on the lower to mid range of the rpm

4-1 benefits more on the top end/ higher end of the rev range

I think ur piping size is fine for a 1.6...

U want more low end power? Change to 15"

i disagree with it...piping size doesnt always relate to CC...its more on the amount of power u have and where in the rev ranger is that power at.

take for example 1.6...campros and CPS goes up to 2.0 and the gain is pretty decent... even CPS stock piping size is 2.0....go bigger and kaput...

but when it comes to the 1.6 MIVECs and VTECs...although the 2" pipes is pretty decent for those engines but they benefit more with 2.3" especially since most of the peak power is at the higher end of the rev range and the bigger pipe size really benefits the higher rev range.

my 2.0 VTEC is running 2.5" pipes.. and its good...so good.. 4-1, 2.5" pipe, 1 midbox, no muffler.

i also have an exhaust cut out valve.. so when the valve closed the exhaust is forced from a 2.5" pipe into a 2.3" pipe and s-flow muffler.....i lose 15hp about 1.2kg torque. tested this on the dyno just yesterday

so max n/a is 2.0"??? big big no.

with great power comes great responsibility fuel consumption


typically la...

with the high cams... i actually think its alright...

wats a vtech?


n go try out the mugen twin loop

and 2.3" straightflow muffler is fine with 2" pipes... had that setup last time...coz its nearing the end already

i think there may be other cracks ur not aware of... have u gone through every single inch?

piping and muffler etc all got crack oso can affect u know...

when mine cracked i had it welded and the difference was significant..

looking for a stock rear muffler with 2.5" inlet...

the quieter the better... preferably a stock exhaust from some car... any idea wat car uses a muffler with that size inlet?

cheap but workmanship no good still mau ka??

like that means stick to the extractor shop only la since their workmanship is good and get the whole system there... mebbe u get whole system they give u discount?

somemore extractor doesnt really involve workmanship... its just basically bolting and unbolting only since the extractor is ready made...

the rest of the exhaust however is a different story and where workmanship really counts..need to bend, weld, fit, etc etc

Kelisa? look for Marco exhaust... cheap and good feedbacks for kenari/kelisa

http://www.marcomy.com/mgold.asp
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Marco-Powerf...150294471670640

i know a shop in SS3 PJ that sells marco exhausts... dunno where else got sell... its right behind the taman bahagia LRT station... there will be marco on the signboard