well at least you still can use DX lens on FX body.

If you have 17-55 f2.8 already then it becomes a smaller MP UWA.

entry level full frame using SDHC. you want what kind of framerate la?

my sifu poison me D800E many months back liao oh.

there's a difference between "entry level DSLR"

and "entry level full-frame DSLR"



if D600 has nice framerate la, no need to buy D4 already.

Nikon WiFi add-on cheap cheap only. D600 is nice but the Nikkor lens not cheap leh, add 16-35 F4 VR also total cost come to RM 10k+ already.

yeah bare basic. if buy used unit also less than RM 4k total. buy new also should be less than RM 5k total.

RM 5k i baru able to get a 16-35 F4 VR.

i just round up the figure to the higher ceiling la.

well i see RRP on Nikon site, I wouldn't want to round down to 4k.

14-24 is awesome lens for FX body! but DX body, hrmmm ...... you're better off with 10-24.

A cheaper alternative for FX body is the 16-35 F4 VR.

so Nikon 14-24 is typically around RM 6k?

So if I go Nikon camp, it's either I spend RM 12k or RM 16k. hrmmm....... tough choice.

change? no ah, i not stuck to any brand wan la.

priority goes to results. only Nikon has 14-24 and only Nikon as 36mp, or even if 24mp it is still more MP than the 6D.

and to what I remember, also greater dynamic range.

btw you coming to Mr Wong's cakap cakap session or not?

reasons above

why am I considering Nikon?

well either Canon camp or Nikon camp, I'm going to spend. Canon stuff probably cut my cost by 1/4 or more.

however cutting my cost also means losing out on the above mentioned stuff.

the way I go about, is regarding delivery. not so much on the FX vs DX stuff. Whether I stick to DX of Canon or Nikon, there's nothing going as wide as the 14-24 on FX sensor. I want the wide and only Nikon has this option for me.

Mr Wong is a common friend of ours, Wesley Wong. a highly knowledgeable person in technical aspects of photography, especially PRINT and he's a good photographer too!

https://www.facebook.com/events/185605531574592/ ifer - here ya go.

every time he talk I sure got more things to ask wan, some things he tell me I go blur wan, cos I'm not so technical person.

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Added on September 27, 2012, 5:02 pmdon't have 45mm and 90mm TS lens also. true.

but i place priority over the FOV, sensor size, megapixel and dynamic range.

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Added on September 27, 2012, 5:04 pmanother reason to change camera system is to experience something you haven't experience.

i also considered going Pentax, recently added even more poison by Mr Wong so yeah. hrm. Possible Pentax.

but but but i want nikkor leh.

your photos look nice but regarding "Take all kinds of photography" - it's ok at the start but try to keep it focused, your value will be better when it's focused.

after studying the D600 in further detail. I'm now more inclined to the D800.

hope my article can help you. http://www.goldfries.com/photography/digit...erture-and-iso/

article last i saw was read 80k times, now it's 114k times!

here's another, more detail about aperture. http://www.goldfries.com/photography/knowi...-how-to-use-it/

1. the AF points being focused at the center of the frame.

2. ISO button being at the back of the body. D800 the ISO button on top left.

3. AF-On button missing on D600.

4. 1/4000 maximum shutter speed. not a huge problem but having 1/8000 available is a plus point.

for me the main issue is point #2 and #3.

1. haven't go used to auto-ISO. I still prefer to adjust my own. Yes, Canon definitely got it right. Just index finger press the ISO button on top and adjust the dial.

2. the AE button is quite further away that the AF-On position. For the Canon, can set the AF to * button which is even nearer to the right side.

btw have any of you tried the WU-1a for the D3200?

1. why compare it to 5D2? that's a problem that shouldn't be there on a camera 4 years after 5D2.

2. ISO button on top is a lot of convenient for my work where camera is on tripod. still not as good as Canon's button placement. Come to think of it ISO button on left hand side no matter how also not nice la.

3. you haven't tried?

4. like what I say, having 1/8000 is a plus point. in my photography, shutter rarely goes above 1/250 to begin with.

I've not been using half-press AF (on shutter button) ever since I discovered I can disable half-press AF on shutter button and have the AF option else where (eg on AF-ON).

This is very crucial for me for both shooting events and / or products / studio. my shutter button is strictly for shutter.

When continuous focusing is enabled, you can press the AF-ON to keep tracking the subject while index finger just click shutter for capture. If your focusing is still on shutter button, every time you press shutter the focusing is stopped, and you have to resume.

Even for still subjects, my camera will always have a lens that support FTM. I don't have to set the switch on the lens to M, it just remains as A because when it works with AF-On.

So when I shoot still subjects (eg products or interior), I can use AF-On to shortcut the focus to where I want, and them manually tune the focus, and when I press the shutter button the lens doesn't change the focus. It's essentially an MF setup with AF override using AF-On when I need to.

To say AF-On no point? Well that's because you haven't found it useful in what you're shooting.