greetings, took over a kancil old model. My dad barely service the car, accept if go for long distance driving / juz top up when low level. i found out there is vibration when i cold start the engine, the oil is kind of black-ish when i checked. it's 3/10 above the lower level limit... I am thinking what brand / details of engine oil i should change? ) Can a old car like mine change FS engine oil? And oil filter juz use perodua one ok rite?

Secondly, about the spark plug, can i change new set? wat spark plug are good? Denso Iridium Power Plugs? NGK? heard tat Kancil uses either EZ660 IW16 and EZ850 IW20.

third thing is, the timing belt, i think my dad didnt changed it for quite a long time, Original Daihatsu Timing Belt Kit Set Kancil 660cc okay or not?

Thank you for the help, sorry for noob question... i have been doing research abt them, but juz wan a quick idea from all the sifus. once again, thank you.

copper NGK (or equivalent OEM ) plugs will do.
OEM air filter will do

if you want tip top performance, can opt to change more frequent on the above 2 items (every 10/15 k km or even 5k km if you're having extra cash to spare, cheap items anyways)

spark plug cable, only if:
yours is damn old, and you are 100% sure that the insides are oxidized/damaged and/or having bad fuel consumption (or performance) or very bad engine idling/high speeds jerking issue (combustion chambers not igniting properly etc) or having hard to crank issues

then you can opt to just replace an OEM (eg: bosch) spark plug cable just to restore its performance.

for throttle response, opt to get your carburetor/throttle body cleaned of carbon using threebond carbon cleaner (can look for forumer thundergod_cid aka elton to poslaju/guide you how to DIY)

engine oil, if performance is what you're aiming, i highly recommend torco semi syn TR-5 xw30
full syn isn't recommended as your oil sump is small and the tiny oil filter have to be replaced around 5-7k km anyways so it will be a waste of your money

can consider doing a gear box flush + filter replace, use semi syn oem gear box fluid to your car's specification, then add in lubegard red (or platinum if you wanna spend more ) ATF additive.

addon:
timing/aux belts, if the last change is more than 2-3 years/100k km, better replace it too

heard abt NGK Iridium spark plug. is it cool? i see. air filter i changed, very like it, white one compare to old one which never change lol... okay.. thanks sifu. noted on plugs and air filter.

erm, at a fresh start at 12pm in the afternoon, takes a few times to start. i mean to say some time it started, and i press the pedal and it went bruoohhh. and like not enuf oil, and mati and i need start again <--- due to my newbieness and noob english, please forgive me... <--- is tat possible to be plug problem or not

okay, the throttle respond thingy i noted, and i go and find him (Thanks a lot for the help abt this. yeah i wanna juz slightly increase or to say ultilize wat i have in this very stock engine =) )

Torco semi syn, easy to find at place like miri or not? i will try to hunt it tml, wat's the guide of the price? okay, thank you, noted for the engine oil... Semi syn change very 7000km rite?

okay, abt the gear box flush and filter replace <--- how much do they cost? wat's the standard gear box oil? they comes with mineral, semi syn and full syn too? i will do more research on this part, but please give me more details if sifu have time... thank you so much for tat....

timing belt, my family told me it's over due, getting oem timing belt is cool?

plug issue need to take out the spark plug and take picture for us (or mechanic) to comment. if you want to take picture show us, do use a DSLR if possible or a good quality camera lol.
that said, if you damn long never replace, might as well replace them (3? piece spark plug also around/less than rm30 for copper plugs lol)

could be starter issue (well unlikely since you actually manage to crank) or weak battery. however since standard OEM spark plug cables aren't too expensive, if you feel like yours is damn old ady never change, butt itchy etc you may opt to replace it (around RM60 or so for bosch OEM, can look for monkey king)

not sure on miri so cant comment, however there are LYN sellers which sells that oil, can opt for pos laju also. price is ~rm130 for 4 liters. (kancil only use around/less than 3 liters right? can keep the rest for future OCI use)
by right the engine oil can last 7k km or more. however if your manufacturer specification recommends 5k km, and if you're not too hurting on cash, do change at 5k km (or compromise for ~6k km) instead

not sure bout perodua kancil price, so cant comment.
and yes even gear box fluid/ATF (or yours MT?) comes with semi/full synthetic too. it's basically the base oil (either hydrocracked mineral based or semi synthetic, or full synthetic of PAO or Ester etc.)
lubegard red is ~rm60, platinum is around rm9x (assuming you on auto lol)

and yes timing belt can get OEM (if you rich can get direct from perodua service centers too, obviously more expensive lol)

umm. sounds cool for the plugs,as my 2.0 megapixels hp camera i think cannot perform well, i bring to mechanic and see. wat say NGK iridium spark plug? wat's the diff with tat? saw the price is 100++.. some fren of mine recommend iridium spark plug, why? ( if i ask my dad when the last time he changed it, will end up with , those are new, don't simply change statement ) lol...

XD i LOL-ed at the butt itchy statement, juz wondering how's condition of it lol... okay. i try do more research on tat. anyway, how to see if it's oxidised or watsoever? ))

semi syn oil OCI is 5k km too? =))) i see... yes, kancil uses 3L one, last time i use 10w30 mineral one,not really satisfied, juz normal.. == since tat's not my car tat i serviced last time, now this is my lovely car and although someone on the thread claimed cheap car should use cheap oil, XD ok,for the sake of my lovely car, i will go check it out, by the way, wat spec i get? torco TR-5 xw30 <--- The x means wat number? sorry again for noob question.


Manual transmission on my kancil 94 year. erm, so which one u recommend after gearbox oil flushed? for my manual gearbox... )) erm, seems like manual no need get lubegard red rite?

LOL-ed again, xD no way dude, i am not rich, but juz willing to spend for servicing my car for the sake of love my car and also replacing my dad's old theory ( juz simply add on engine oil when low level, and the engine oil is as dark as ) okay, will get a oem timing belt and get it changed at workshop,but do you know the price of the timing belt and workmanship? don wanna get cheated if i really do look like a kiddo... XD

oh well, one more ya brah, how do i check is there any leaking in my engine bay? my dad said it has a small leaking, but donno where, tat's why he wan to change the timing belt for me as well as the timing belt is overdued... my fren said if got white smoke from exhaust, means probably something not right from ur engine, but well i don't have white smoke on my tip, but i do have huge or we say kinda big vibration? when the engine is cold. it vibrate, and got quite a noise, oh well, should i get a video clip from my fren's good phone btw?


Thank you so much for the help and really do appreciated for the time, brah.

This post has been edited by simon3041: Aug 2 2012, 01:35 PM

google (can flip to google image for pictorial guide)
https://www.google.com/search?sugexp=chrome...+plug+condition

semi syn typically 7.5k km. however its our car's oil sump/oil filter being small, carbon deposits will still pile up regardless of your oil quality.
so at the end, it's best to follow manufacturer's recommendation, and since most of our local cars are 5k km service interval recommendation, stick with that (or around it like 6k or so), hence no point to spend on expensive full syn oil (to note: good semi syn > cheap full syn because of its additives)

x = we dont give a shit on that number, malaysia no winter. and you dont cold start your engine all the time.


manual is lubegard yellow.

timing belt/labor for kancil i am not familiar, cant comment sorry
i drive a proton iswara myself.

if got white smoke, usually means engine seals/gasket leaking, as the cooling system's water may have leak into your engine/exhaust.

your dad pretty much abused your car anyways so... lol.

if you really want to take care of the car, get a clean slate, do a full overhaul (should be around/under 2k since small little kancil) and your timing belts/aux/whatever belts can be replaced then too since ur engine will be taken apart.

suggest to save up and do that.
reason on the suggestion is cuz if your engine is already having leaks, or suffering from performance loss, you do whatever mods/good engine oil also for waste if you cant get the most out of them.

how many km mileage on the car btw? typical cars especially one that loves their car and/or performance enthusiasts 100k km will do top overhaul, 200k km either top or full overhaul if got problems.

for engine vibration on low rpm, consider replacing all your engine mounting first (especially if never replace, typical mounting last 3-5 years or so). if still persist then can troubleshoot further.

my advise... if u really want to use for a long run and dont want more trouble and headache for the future... do a complete overhaul. should be around RM1.5k to RM2k depending on the workshop.

now after all that said and done... u can use what ever engine oil that u want to use... torco/liqui moly/royal purple/penzoil/motul/total/ and what ever engine oil there thats available... just follow the manual specs for the engine oil...


u use the best parts in the market could offer but if ur engine kong also no use...

First of all, thank you for the reply.
read abt the guide, thanks, i try unplug it tml morning and see...

noted abt the engine oil.. Uhmm then i will try out the good semi syn and OCI will be 5k km for me ya.
aw i see, so i guess any value of x is ok rite? okay noted bro

Lubegard yellow is for wat de? ))

Okay, i will do more research on the overhaul... indeed overhaul is a great or right way to look into our engine rite... )) The mileage is 101 xxx KM is it consider old? hahah.. lol.. i thought so... top overhaul seems legit, my sister crashed the car few years before, i guess tat's the reason the mounting cacat. i heard from my dad the chasis also kena crashed... okay, i can get mechanic to look over the reason for vibration rite?

Okay, so for now i juz change the overdued timing belt and engine oil and save for top overhaul i guess... ))
anyway, do u know wat else we should take note of beside these? i see some rust at radiator, but the temp is fine... :DDD shouldnt be a prob rite?

and any idea what alarm to use? cause i kinda park the car at university and pasar, need do some precaution... any good alarm system to intro? and got tracking thingy ka in case our car hilang. and also rims as stated below brah... thank you so much for the time

thank you so much for the advice bro.. okay, i gonna do more research on top overhaul then.. )) any idea on alarm system as stated above and oh yar, how abt rims? i don't see any bbs rim with 13" or 14" . so basically i cant get them beside those taiwan rims, which my fren quoted it will be kind of paint drop after somewhile? lol... i wanna find a super light weight rim five spokes 13" or 14", any idea? and the tyre shuld be 165 / 55 / r13?

This post has been edited by simon3041: Aug 2 2012, 07:18 PM

if you want you can OCI at 6 or 7k km as the engine oil has no issues in lasting that long with almost no performance degradation. that way you can save cost, and speed up saving on the engine overhaul.
typically "x" would be 10 for semi syn, so it'll be 10w30, which is yeah, no problem.

lubegard yellow is a MTF additive

100k km isnt really old at all. maybe can consider only top overhaul to save cost.

and yea get mechanic to check the mountings. chances are if your chassis has been into accidents/crashes, it could be misaligned and have accelerated wear on the engine mountings. (or even potentially damaged them)
more so if its very old already and never been replaced, they are wear and tear items so eventually they will require replacing

if you never or very long time didnt flush the radiator/cooling systems, you can opt to do so and fill it back with 50:50 ratio coolant and distilled/filtered water (no mineral deposits or anything else that may promote quicker rust/corrosion in the cooling system)

gps tracking minimum also need rm800++ or more for the item + installation. then everymonth will incur a minor fee

also your car kancil right? 15" cant be fitted IINM
and anything under 15", hard to get performance tires also.

so it's really pointless to change rims/tires.
with that said, if you want better looking rims, can just opt for stock sized sport rims. since not much difference to be very honest.
if you dont care so much bout looks, suggest you save that money for overhauling better lol.

ok, noted abt OCI, shuld be 5k km for me )) ok, will save cash for top overhaul.. noted abt the lubegard, jot down already, will research more abt tat. say if mounting need to be change, how much it cost? i mean agak agak, let's check if my cash is enough.. i see.... yeah, i thought so too, shuld be mounting cause the vibration.. :/

okay, need flushing already. saw rust thr, brown brown when i open the cap... :mother of god: erm, how to flush the rust away? any specific liquid? by the way, brah wat do u mean by promote quicker rust? ))

yes kancil 15" need cut fender... =/ i am looking for a performance > look rims, wan a lighter rims as well as ok look as well as better handling since wider tyre can handle much better? ) more contact to the ground, iinm? Imho,i don't really care abt looks for rims or wat so ever, cause don wanna been tag ricer later on in uni lol... XD.. aiks, =/ not much performance tyre for below 15"? =/

mounting full set maybe 300-400? more or less, not sure bout kancil pricing

flushing methods varies, maybe can have other sifu comment. so long a good amount of water cycles through the system carrying out all the dirt, i am ok with it. can also flush/suction on the overflow bottle too (the container where you fill in water)
google up on how rust forms, lol.

dont care bout looks? no need change rim/tire lol.

thanks brah. i try to ask tml for all the stuff i listed... okay, waiting for other sifus' comment.. okay, let's save the rims money then since no 13" or 14" can come with BBS brand or else only in taiwan mode... erm, any idea on the rear bonnet tat is kinda paint drop off or paint too much sunlight? i mean kind of paint wear, only way is to respray?

paint peeling ma respray lo lol

it's about the money money money,,, lol... all rite then, let's see wat i got tml. thanks pal for the help. i wanna try the lubegard, seems great after googled..

Hello every1 sorry to bump in.. What doyou guys think ? Should i get the perodua oem air filter or should i go with k& n air filter as i heard a lots of rumours stating that the k&n air filter filtration is not as good as the oem 1 ?

U mean u want to use open pod filter? I dont think k&n got drop in air filters for kancil.

Just like your water filter, if the filtration system is good and can filter smaller particle, it will be resistive compared to sponge filter with the same cross section area in contact.

Hahahaha sorry my bad i actually drive myvi 05 manual..

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Added on August 16, 2012, 8:33 pmHello.. Ermmm.. Does that mean the k&n is better? Sorry im a little slow

This post has been edited by Calasis91: Aug 16 2012, 08:33 PM

When there's Haze, you need to filter the air when you breathe. I give you handkerchief and paper mask. Which one breathes better. Which one reduces your chance of inhaling haze particles.

Both has it's ups and down. All depends on your weightage.

Wow... You explained it wisely.. Thanks.. Now i get it.. I decide to go with the stock filter just add on cai.. With these my car can breath easier and cleaner air.. Btw, thanks for the info