Out of curiosity, how many litres does it take to fuel up you guys'(and gals') Saga when there's only the last indicator remaining(but not blinking)? It kinda baffles me that even when using until the last indicator, and on the third tank of petrol now, that it barely reaches RM50 per fuel up. Is the tank REALLY that small?

Yeah.. I realised the tank capacity is smaller at 40-litres, but based on RM50(not blinking but last column on the 6-bar fuel gauge), it's only around RM27-litres, which meant there's still roughly 13-litres in the tank, enough for another 130km given the worst FC scenario for me so far.

Just no used to it. It just means I have to stop for fuel ups more often now

Not sure whether to get the 1k service done this Friday or next Monday. It's close to 800km now and that exhaust flexi vibration is really getting on my nerves.

Best FC to date is on the highway at 15.3km/L, not sure if the fuel tank wasn't fueled up to full properly, but City driving so far is around 10-10.5km/L.

Yeah.. Kinda not used as most of my other cars have at least a 50L tank except the Kancil, but the Kancil also can go on for about 10 days per tankful. Still running on the stock Silverstone(s) inflated to 33psi/30psi cold pressure. It seems the front wheel wells are overly small and could only fit close to stock size, rough measurements is that 195/55 actually nudges both the front and rear plastic covers on full steering lock! I have yet to muster the motivation to swap over the 195/55 wheels from my other car for a test, might either go for 185/55R15 PS3 or 205/50R15 KU36 instead as they are closer to stock diameter.

So far, both my tanks of city driving are close to 10km/L, have yet to go for first service, 3rd tankful of petrol now. I'm not sure why you mentioned "grippier tyres", that is, unless you've upgraded the stock tyres. The City, if it's the iDSi, is sorta a lean burn model, can't compare with a normal, slightly revvy IAFM engine of the Saga. Being gentle on the throttle doesn't necessarily gives better FC, giving the right throttle input for the right load is the crucial thing, drive it like a manual, not an auto.

Well.. I'll definitely refuel when it hits the 2/3 of the fuel gauge, was kinda pushing it for me by going down to the last indication bar today, and, no, I'm not going to test how far it'll go on blinking mode. Kills the fuel pump faster too if you frequently do that. It's just a minor complaint from my part but I could live with it.

Didn't mean to invoke a FC discussion, but I was initially mentioning about the small fuel tank. Have you done your first service? 400KM per tankful seems about right actually.

This post has been edited by GRexer: Jul 24 2012, 11:11 PM

Hm.. Not sure what's the problem, but have you checked your tyre pressure? From what I know, cars that are being collected often run too high a tyre pressure, I can't say much on the highway/city drive coz a mixed drive, you can't always get similar results, traffic jams might occur and stuff like that.

Ah.. No wonder, that was my initial plan as well but I've decided to just use the stock tyres while I hunt for a set of Japanese wheels before changing the tyres together. Well.. Anyway, what I meant in terms of "driving like a manual" is the throttle input. I'm not so sure if you had driven a manual, but, sorta, in a sense, you rarely take your foot off the throttle, merely using the throttle to control the acceleration and deceleration. Driving it like an auto will mean you'll be stepping on the brakes and throttle heavily far too often than needed. Never driven a City VTEC so I can't comment on the FC, but the Jazz iDSi in my family is helluva decent FC car.

This post has been edited by GRexer: Jul 24 2012, 11:23 PM

Yes, I totally understand that it doesn't fully fill up even when the nozzle trips, sometimes, it trips as the displacement of air inside the tank triggers it. As for the fuel, it's not due to the overheating, as you mentioned, more like due to the impurities in the tank being sucked up(especially when your car grows older) as the fuel filter is AFTER the pump but BEFORE reaching the fuel rail, and also the possibility of pumping dry when your take corners.

Frankly, 2 years is not a very long time for the fuel pump to start showing signs of failure, give it 5 years or so, then we start talking, but, heck, I know most people changed their cars before the fuel pump even died. I never made any indication that the fuel tank needs to be always half full, I just merely mention that it's not advisable to let it run until the fuel warning lights comes on every single time. It's just my habit of refuelling before reaching 1/4 tankful. I would refrain to comment on your reasons, to each of our own reasons.

Well.. I guess there's nothing wrong with the driving then. I can't comment much as I hadn't even touched 1k mileage on mine, and I'm running on them shitty stockies for tyres.

Well.. The pump is a submerged in-tank unit on most EFi fuel tanks, and the fuel filter is almost always after it, but before the fuel rail(where it's supposed to filter out most, or rather ALL sediments to prevent it from clogging up the injectors), hence my mention of NOT frequently running dry, or almost dry. Unless it's been modified to run an external pump where you could fit a high flow filter before it(which my now-no-longer-daily car is setup), the recommendation is still to refuel before it hits warning at best.

Yeah.. It would had been great if it had 45 or 50 litres, but I supposed as it's based on the Savvy platform, it's probably due to the lack of space to fit a larger one. One of the bigger peeves I had about it, others are pretty minor like the lack of a one-touch power window for the driver's window, lack of factory brake lock etc.

Another thing I've encountered, but I suppose this relates to the CVT owners only. Do you guys find that shifting from L to D, it nudges into N momentarily? Mine does and it kinda annoys me, not that I find the need for L-gear yet.

It's supposed to be Low Gear instead of Sports Mode(like the Preve CFE Premium).

This post has been edited by GRexer: Jul 24 2012, 11:51 PM

Well.. I have to again, clarify that I never mentioned anything about always keeping the tank at least half full, I mentioned to NOT always run until the fuel warning comes up with the probability of running dry. It's always a known fact that any liquid pump is not meant to run dry a.k.a. pump air. Only air pumps could survive doing that.

Fact: Trying to NOT ever run your fuel tank dry as it'll kill the fuel pump sooner or later.

No problem

I think it's more towards the restricted access issue, as the filter would needs replacement frequently and nobody wants to drop the fuel tank each time it needs to be done!

Well.. We could go on for the minor stuff, yeah, undeniably the brake lock and one-touch window could be fixed with a couple of devices, and I have to agree on the wiper thing. Especially after being used to variable intermittent wiper and the push-stalk-upwards-to-wipe-once! The demister, I guess it would be a habit. Cruise control is probably a little too much to ask for the price of the car, but, yeah, coupled that with the DBW, it would be great for long distance with the fine controls(I like the one on the current Honda CR-V A LOT!)

I've done quite some practise during idling, seems that I still need more practise as the slightest move from L to D still makes the indicator goes to N briefly. Not that it matters as I hadn't encounter the need to switch to L yet.

Not quite sure about the S gear on the Preve, but, it seems to be a higher rpm difference on the FLX SE compared to the Preve.

Well, the worst part of running low on fuel is to get lost at somewhere unfamiliar.

Totally agree on that from a detailer's point of view! The space between spokes is a little hard to get into, I had to get a new wheel brush instead of my usual one just for that!

Well.. Definitely NEED the RIGHT brush. Even the Daytona Speed is having a hard time reaching into the spokes!

So far never experienced any decent ones around this area. I live in Puchong also always end up in PJ or Kota Kemuning.

Calling it "sport rim" is an old misconception, it's called alloy rim or steel rims(like the 13" on Saga non-executive), yours is alloy rims, it could be repaired, to a certain extent.

Since now on the topic of this air-cond filter, does our car come standard with it or what?

Going for first service on Monday. Was wondering, what's the standard engine oil being sold that's listed in the service schedule? Mineral or Semi-synthetic? Any ideas of the oil grade?

Hm.. According to the service price list via the PDF file on Proton Edar's site, it's kinda odd why they list 2 part numbers for engine oil, one at RM86 and the other at RM32, both labelled "semi-synthetic", or did I download the wrong list?

Plan to use semi until 10,000km and then will proceed to use ester based oils for a longer service interval.

This post has been edited by GRexer: Jul 27 2012, 08:36 PM

Oh.. Ok. Thank you for the info.

I initially used the cold pressure for the 185/60R14 tyres but subsequently upped the ante to 33psi Front and 30psi rear. Still playing around with the rear pressure, seemed to be more my liking when it was 29psi rear. But for the front, 33psi seemed good enough.

Got the opportunity to explore CoE when I sent in for service today. Took a picture of a mock up of the Gunmetal R3 wheel on a Fire Red FLX SE conveniently in the showroom.



The wheel I used to mock up


Yeah.. I really got fooled thinking it came with "safety tint" when I initially went to check the specs. Ingatkan so nice, the recent crime rate made them fit security tint as standard, until later on realised it's just a freaking brand!


Anyway, went for my first 1,000km service today, not really a great experience, they didn't fix the annoying vibration also experienced by dares when the engine speed hits 2,100-2,300rpm. Merely adjusted the exhaust holder plate. Whatever that meant, it didn't do anything to the vibrations and I brought the Service Advisor for a short test drive immediately after collecting the car to show him it's still there. Should have brought the mechanic/technician for the drive instead.

Got a "free" scratch/nick on the rear door as well, probably from the door of the car parked in the next bay. Damnit! Only realised when I came back from the service centre, and it wasn't there when I left for the service centre. Pretty sure it wasn't nicked on the way back as I went straight from the service centre to my destination and saw it the moment I alighted from the car.



One thing though, exactly how many litres does the S4PH uses per service? Exactly 4 litres? Coz I was given an empty engine oil bottle as the "remainder" from the service! Well, the user manual does state 3.75litres oil pan + 0.3litres for oil filter capacity though.

p/s: On a side note, pretty disappointed the Cafeteria was closed and I had to walk 20 minutes(per trip) for lunch!

I supposed so, considering after referring to the manual that it takes 3.75litres in the oil pan and 0.3litres in the oil filter, roughly around 4 litres there.

I walked to that flyover with ELITE highway passing thru coming in from USJ. Found that way is a lot closer to me than going thru KESAS. The only rows of shops there.

For the record, standard for 185/60R14 is 31psi-front and 28psi-rear for cold pressure and for the 195/50/R15, it's 29psi-front and 26-psi rear. For my FLX SE, I was initially running the cold pressure for the 14" wheels, found it not really my liking, now running 33psi-front and 30-psi rear(+4psi for highway theory), might be back to 33-psi front and 29-psi rear after this post-service refuel to see if it makes a difference, somehow 30-psi rear is a little over, can start feeling the bumpiness.

Usually, most would run higher front pressure than rear. This, more or less, reduce the understeer effect(theoretically).

As with ANY headlamp bulb, after removing the rubber bulb cover, there's a pair of hooks holding the bulb in place, you might want to see from a different angle to see it, as for me, I'm already familiar with it so I'll just "feel" the hooks and unhook them.

I memang tak puasa Anyway, I would be interested to know what improvements that rear lower brace brings as I'm also considering the 3Max's backseat brace.

This post has been edited by GRexer: Jul 30 2012, 09:24 PM