The aim of this build is to build something small as the name depict. Previous builds were done on cases such as corsair 800D, Lian Li A05NB, and finally TJ07. However, due to study, I constantly travel between 2 places . . . and carrying a water cooled TJ07 is really not a good idea ! (with corsair 800D being the worst, thanks to its steel construction). This upcoming work log will be using a mini ITX case, and to put up some challenges (to me at least), I decided to water cool it (since I have leftover parts ).

The selection of parts will be reveal as work log proceed as I had no idea what to choose. . . . . .yet. However, the choice casing had already been decided.

:scared: feels so formal

Let me begin with some random shots, not any teaser, but, at least some pictures to compensate the boredom of WORDS ! !





I painted one of the stop fittings



Arhem, some photos from my trip to Sabah



Mount Kinabalu ! well I was lucky to be able to see it on bad weather 8-).



The rafflesia, fuuuuuuu



and some random waterfall with wooden bridge seen on my way to hotsprings, jz to share, though nothing special

This post has been edited by shuhong90: Mar 5 2013, 10:47 PM

Sorry for the out of topic. back to the worklog.

Well the case apparently jz came yday, didnt have much time for photos yet. But, had worked on the psu



Silverstone Strider Plus 600W ! Silverstone psu ~ ~~ all time favourite.... to me at least

Now It's up for surgery





I am cruel, tearing up its insides





and I even skinned it ! ! ! nooooooooo



Well all previous pictures happened 2 weeks ago.

yday i managed to paint the psu

spent whole day for painting, finally finished painting one of the psu part, the results are quite good to me

Here are some of the photos, and the rest of the psu will be done tonight (hopefully )





Finally fit in the psu internal parts on finished case =)



This post has been edited by shuhong90: Jul 26 2012, 06:17 PM

and theres go the warranty..hahaha..white prodigy perhaps?

This post has been edited by marsha1l: Jul 19 2012, 04:53 PM

Finished painting ! and finished assembled the psu ~

Behold ! Silverstone Strider plus white edition *.* lol i could call it WHITEstone strider plus









Ooops !

U did not see the bitfenix prodigy casing box ! U did not see it !

Next, some photos of psu with it's best companion









Hmm... I like the combi of yellow sleeve and psu photo alot .. . feels like SUNSHINE xD

This post has been edited by shuhong90: Jul 26 2012, 06:18 PM

niceeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

What brand is that sleeve? So nice.

at last, u found the grey sleeve color. kudos bro, cant wait to see ur project

Thanks.

MDPC-X for all except white, which is from colortrail.


nah, i owned it all along, jz that i m looking for a lighter grey and even darker grey. lazy to get from mdpc-x, cz needa wait for like a month, which is tedious. anyway bro, the diameter of ur sleeve is comparatively smaller than mdpc-x's right ?

damn nice..

having the balls to paint ur psu white... i suspect u. i wan change psu fan also skedding.

yup

Thanks guys for the compliment

Finally ! unboxed the casing *.* and shot some photos ~



















Just some quick shots, hope its still capable of keeping your eyes entertained 8-)

This post has been edited by shuhong90: Jul 26 2012, 06:19 PM

bro why not replace your psu fan ?

the prodigy same color as mine..

The best fan for this is the article cooler 12 pwm or the nzxt
Both have white blades and black bodies blend well with the color theme.

Gt fan would look horrible in the color theme

yeah I have some artic cool fans as well as some noiseblocker. I'm thinking to use noiseblocker, so, wanting to keep all fans black for unity. jz a thought though, havent decide yet.

the noiseblocker i think will move more air slightly but its also noiser.
their 140mm really moves a far bit more than the 120mm. Have them in my ldpc.

Noiseblocker fans are opaque grey thoughout
so i guess the front panel you are using 2 pcs of 120mm.

Anyway, been working on a GPU cover whole day. and here is the partial product obtained:







Hmm... :-/ still wondering how should I mount it ~ since its and aluminium, fearing that it will conduct electricity during operation since the card is in contact with the metal piece.

This post has been edited by shuhong90: Jul 26 2012, 06:19 PM

plastic spacer will do the job plus u might wanna make some hole above the gpu

kenot see the pic la

Photo links are down

Updated the pictures

A friend study aboard at UK finally came back to Malaysia, and he's kind enough to deliver this reservoir to me ! 8-)8-)8-)













Sigh, it's really hard to get the seller to reply pm nowadays. one of em didnt reply me after i left a msg more than twice, and this happened a month ago.

may i know about the gpu cover or i believe it is called a back plate or something??
if let's say the back part of the gpu is bare meaning, the pcb is visible, what kind of plate can i diy to make a nice clean back plate? any recommendations or idea sharing? would an aluminium piece be good? or can i use a piece of mirror..any suggestions?

This post has been edited by Jinster: Jul 26 2012, 09:10 PM

Hi, currently, I myself using aluminium. but i think it is safe to be painted, making sure it's non-conductive, to prevent short circuit, plus aluminium is light, wont place higher amount of load on the gpu itself, prevent straining. as for mirror, i nvr heard of it though, but i think its quite heavy la, if u want mirror finished, u might can look for mirror acrylic. Bt i searched quite some places, and only large supplier carries them.

Photo still cannot see.

okays, thanks for the info =)
well i plan to get the windforce from gigabyte and it's a blue pcb..thinking of placing a black back plate to cover the blue..though the blue can't really be seen during the night lol...

The photos are perfectly fine. this might due to ur internet connection or server problem.


it can be visible ~ more or less, covering it will of course, achieve non-compromise looks

Anyway, some pictures of the ram i bought yday







Hope you guys like it

That ram.

GO GRAB IT DEN !

Mobo searching still in the process ~ ~ i wonder any shop in lyp carries asrock z77E-ITX

that ram heat spreader r removeable like old dom?
as alwayas nice mod bro

This post has been edited by [Krauser]: Jul 28 2012, 02:39 PM

Its the Platinum Edition right.?
must be damn expensive...

Wow..u must have a good budget for this

with that speed can get at RM3xx only..for 1600Mhz above is damn expensive

This should cost rm350-rm400 .

Correct me if I'm wrong.

I think its possible, since there are some small hex screw in sight.

It's around 360.

that ram..must be premium for 4gbx2..

nice res u have there

..why not take the frozenq res?

the only thing frozenq res has is an internal tube within the res, and personally (no offense) i don't like it.



This post has been edited by shuhong90: Jul 28 2012, 11:44 PM

While waiting for the paint of GPU I/O bracket to dry, I disassembled the GPU block for some cleaning . I was worried bout

staining and corrosion due to colored coolant, as I've seen major stain occur with the use of EK blood red coolant.

Fortunately, no stain were found :thumbsup:, jz some minor fouling :foot:. Let's have the photo do the

talking shall we ? =)



Fouling effect of blood red particles !





Cleaned up 8-)



Cleaned up both



Fixed the acetal back to where it belongs, pop a beer to celebrate the end of cleaning progess

As for the custom GPU bracket, I'm still thinking whether to use it or not :think: as the result is not what i had expected. maybe i

should modify it a little more.

care to share with me the dimension of the gpu plate dun feel like pulling it out assuming u're using the 560ti hehehe
I have some alu to wreck ...and some white acylic *if u interested I can send some of the white acrylic 2mm I got plenty

As for mounting it ...I think you could use plastic spacer and a longer screw . If u found the perfect spacer and screw I want some hahaha

another way ...is to use high temp double tape .. stick it on some clear part on the back of the gc ..the bad thing is ... scared the adhesion from the tape are too strong ..maybe can put some automotive sticker then double tape ...the oracal 651 sticker can go up to 78C ..I have tons if u wan to try hahaha ..I dun think the gc would shoot up to 70C with wb since I get 69 on stock cooler while folding.

glad to see the block clean and shiny now I dun have to worry much hahaha

Cheers

Errr, I'm not sure if i still keep the original dimensions, since this i had sanded it and filed it. might not be accurate.
:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:

Some update. finished the cpu bracket as well as back plate









Oops a gold sheep :gasp:







More of it ! ! :panic:

dont tell me those adapter were the black one?

exactly !

u use paint stripper with them ? damn nice got the brass/bronze look

nope, i sanded it.

no wonder it got the brushed look abit. awesome

BTW those screw on the back of the gpu are plain hideous hahaha

This post has been edited by devilish_yin: Jul 29 2012, 07:14 PM

yes, dats y i said i might ditch the backplate or maybe create another one. and thinking to get the one from evga and paint it

or the backplate screw change with countersunk screw?

Somehow it looks uglier with backplates on. arghhh i m so confuse lol. anyway, too much filling has been done on the backplate, making the surface uneven, not nice, so gonna ditch dat.

Anyway guys, any guide to make sure how to drill proper holes ? lol. I'm reli worst in drilling holes.

Use center punch to mark drilling point or a nail and hammer
the bit would stay on the path as long you have steady hand.
that what I always do

+1
if u have press drill then no need lo.
for me i like to print the plan 1st then stick to the plate

Thanks for the suggestiong guys =) Guess my problem is weaken drill bit. since the drill itself its very powerful one, but it takes 5 minutes to drill a 1-2mm thick aluminium. that's just hilllarious



This post has been edited by shuhong90: Jul 30 2012, 12:34 PM

Hmm.. I wonder who's selling aluminium plates now in LYN.

Just buy new drill bit. Aluminium 1-2mm needs about 1 minutes to drill with a new bit
buy the brand evacut just get it from the bolt and nut shop near monash
should be about rm3-4 each
and then you can a buy a m6 drill to do the countersunk for the csk screw

bear in mind brass will turn color once its oxidize. Will turn blackish

This post has been edited by sam sam: Jul 30 2012, 01:57 PM

U would need some solid carbide bits would cost around 25~35 per piece if I'm not mistaken. Those 3 ringgit might do the job but they would break if u put force upon them.

He might still be selling it ..wondering what grade is that ..
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1214124/all

carbide bits are for stainless steel
and normally will also break, compared to HSS bits carbide bits break easily as they are much harder and less ductile as they are meant to be harder than stainless steel
A HSS drill bit can actually take some lateral force while drilling around 10degree and still will not break

if you using a hand drill, carbide is a no go as a slip can break the bit. However they don't blunt easily
DO note any drill bit will go blunt when working with plexi or even wood.

as mention buy industrial drill bits like evacut or Sandor, they cost around rm3 from screw shops and reputable hardware shops

AFAIK carbide doesn't mean for stainless steel particularly... ..I drilled mostly using table drill ...so the force are steady and high rpm ... I might be wrong ...but I drilled like a boss TBH ...hummm

I do bought those 3rinngit but I dunno what brand ...
2 pieces broke ==" then I opted to something else available in the lab ...

carbide is mainly for stainless steel this are slightly yellowish
bench drill just buy HSS they are meant to drill normal steel, make sure you buy the branded stuff which cheaper than the cheap hardware store stuff from china
If you buy from a screw shop or a proper machine shop then the bits are important stuff from NZ or UK, or even germany
a evacut brand new HSS drill takes 30 seconds to drill m4 hole on a 1.5mm Stainless steel. and about 2 minutes on a blunt bit to cut thru 1.5mm stainless steel.

most people are not aware that you are not suppose to use high rpm while drilling. RPM for most drill just set around 800rpm as its the most versatile for small bit. Too fast it would blunt the drill bit, there is a chart you can follow. As the bit diameter increases you are suppose to drill at a lower speed. High speed above 1000rpm is meant for small size like m2 and m1 where the speed dictates the acuracy

LOL you guys. . . so much for a "drill" nevertheless your knowledges are very valuable to me who are really newbie when it comes to tooling =)

but what I learned are really different ...
HSS mostly can be used but they broke easily and would need to resharpen most of the time. We mostly use them since they are darn cheap
Carbide are much more stronger but yeah they cant handle impact but since I'm using a table drill ...less impact + high rpm does help cut aluminium faster ...

what make me weird is that I cut through 1.2mm 6061 T-6 in a matter of second ... I didn't bother counting ..m3 hole

I rechecked in case I'm wrong ...I found this http://store.curiousinventor.com/guides/drill_speed/
suggested that 2000 rpm would be a good range to cut aluminium


It good to learn something

YES bro, it is always good to learn something. now I've learn something =) cant wait to put into use straight away

Some results of the fittings painting ! :crazy:









Project is progressing very slowly.. due to time constraints, hope i can squeeze more time for this ! :facepalm::facepalm:

white! oo aa white 45degree fittings following the 90degree leader~

Boss, can you help me make some backplates?

LOL bro, dat backplate is a failure

Nowadays you become pro modder and don't want to help me. Sad

Ur psu damn nice man.why didnt u use led fan for it

I think since no point ...the psu under mobo tray hahaha

LOL boss mai sad ! u more pro one

Personally, i dont like led fans, they make the whole system looks less elegant if were'nt use properly.
besides, without proper light dispersion technique, some corner will be unexceptionally bright, while others dark, can look very ugly or in other words, cheap, but still its reli my personal taste though, no offense

Weekend is the best day for modding and updating worklog !

So here I am again, to share some progress, thought its only a few pictures, but still, am so eager to share :foot:

The original XSPC 240 radiator in matte black !







Next, spending approximately 2-3 hours sanding~





Next will be white primer and pure white paint



and finally the result :beard:





With some fittings on

love everything that u've done so far bro!

Wow!this is really osssssum!!

Thanks for liking it, more to come soon

nicely done bro

wow the rad look gooding

U can paint yours too

i dun have WC and retired from computer stuffs like oc and modding
but i joined audiophile

neat looking paint job... cool lah bro....

jizzed christ....

LOL why yearning for christ



This post has been edited by shuhong90: Aug 7 2012, 04:37 PM

Upcoming...



sigh fittings are jz not enough

your not using fan for your rad?

only top and and rear fan only. its jz system in the making, havent decide still. mayb, gonna shift the res backward a little, or placed it right above the mobo, so that i can put 1 fan on the rad. but putting 2 is impossible becz of the pump. besides, i dont want the case became way too cramp, which results in even worst air flow. and for an itx board, i m not gonna do extreme overclocking, or i might not even do any overclocking at all =), hence, i think its feasible still.

only top and and rear fan only. its jz system in the making, havent decide still. mayb, gonna shift the res backward a little, or placed it right above the mobo, so that i can put 1 fan on the rad. but putting 2 is impossible becz of the pump. besides, i dont want the case became way too cramp, which results in even worst air flow. and for an itx board, i m not gonna do extreme overclocking, or i might not even do any overclocking at all =), hence, i think its feasible still.

Oops, sorry for the double posting

what coolant you plan to use?

Will u do some side panel window for it?

I'm not sure, planning to use mayhem but gt no mayhem. maybe getting some colored coolant from cyntrix. purple or yellow. not sure.

yes of course bro, lol without window, all effort will be futile , or... maybe not

Feels like monochrome

i oso want to make a window. can i send my side panel to you

haha bro, This is my second time making window. I'm not sure if i can make a perfect one

Well. I'm thinking to make a window of particle shape, as rectangular windows does'nt seems to please my eyes

why not a bitfenix styling =)