Errr, I'm not sure if i still keep the original dimensions, since this i had sanded it and filed it. might not be accurate.
:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:

Some update. finished the cpu bracket as well as back plate









Oops a gold sheep :gasp:







More of it ! ! :panic:

dont tell me those adapter were the black one?

exactly !

u use paint stripper with them ? damn nice got the brass/bronze look

nope, i sanded it.

no wonder it got the brushed look abit. awesome

BTW those screw on the back of the gpu are plain hideous hahaha

This post has been edited by devilish_yin: Jul 29 2012, 07:14 PM

yes, dats y i said i might ditch the backplate or maybe create another one. and thinking to get the one from evga and paint it

or the backplate screw change with countersunk screw?

Somehow it looks uglier with backplates on. arghhh i m so confuse lol. anyway, too much filling has been done on the backplate, making the surface uneven, not nice, so gonna ditch dat.

Anyway guys, any guide to make sure how to drill proper holes ? lol. I'm reli worst in drilling holes.

Use center punch to mark drilling point or a nail and hammer
the bit would stay on the path as long you have steady hand.
that what I always do

+1
if u have press drill then no need lo.
for me i like to print the plan 1st then stick to the plate

Thanks for the suggestiong guys =) Guess my problem is weaken drill bit. since the drill itself its very powerful one, but it takes 5 minutes to drill a 1-2mm thick aluminium. that's just hilllarious



This post has been edited by shuhong90: Jul 30 2012, 12:34 PM

Hmm.. I wonder who's selling aluminium plates now in LYN.

Just buy new drill bit. Aluminium 1-2mm needs about 1 minutes to drill with a new bit
buy the brand evacut just get it from the bolt and nut shop near monash
should be about rm3-4 each
and then you can a buy a m6 drill to do the countersunk for the csk screw

bear in mind brass will turn color once its oxidize. Will turn blackish

This post has been edited by sam sam: Jul 30 2012, 01:57 PM

U would need some solid carbide bits would cost around 25~35 per piece if I'm not mistaken. Those 3 ringgit might do the job but they would break if u put force upon them.

He might still be selling it ..wondering what grade is that ..
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1214124/all

carbide bits are for stainless steel
and normally will also break, compared to HSS bits carbide bits break easily as they are much harder and less ductile as they are meant to be harder than stainless steel
A HSS drill bit can actually take some lateral force while drilling around 10degree and still will not break

if you using a hand drill, carbide is a no go as a slip can break the bit. However they don't blunt easily
DO note any drill bit will go blunt when working with plexi or even wood.

as mention buy industrial drill bits like evacut or Sandor, they cost around rm3 from screw shops and reputable hardware shops

AFAIK carbide doesn't mean for stainless steel particularly... ..I drilled mostly using table drill ...so the force are steady and high rpm ... I might be wrong ...but I drilled like a boss TBH ...hummm

I do bought those 3rinngit but I dunno what brand ...
2 pieces broke ==" then I opted to something else available in the lab ...

carbide is mainly for stainless steel this are slightly yellowish
bench drill just buy HSS they are meant to drill normal steel, make sure you buy the branded stuff which cheaper than the cheap hardware store stuff from china
If you buy from a screw shop or a proper machine shop then the bits are important stuff from NZ or UK, or even germany
a evacut brand new HSS drill takes 30 seconds to drill m4 hole on a 1.5mm Stainless steel. and about 2 minutes on a blunt bit to cut thru 1.5mm stainless steel.

most people are not aware that you are not suppose to use high rpm while drilling. RPM for most drill just set around 800rpm as its the most versatile for small bit. Too fast it would blunt the drill bit, there is a chart you can follow. As the bit diameter increases you are suppose to drill at a lower speed. High speed above 1000rpm is meant for small size like m2 and m1 where the speed dictates the acuracy

LOL you guys. . . so much for a "drill" nevertheless your knowledges are very valuable to me who are really newbie when it comes to tooling =)

but what I learned are really different ...
HSS mostly can be used but they broke easily and would need to resharpen most of the time. We mostly use them since they are darn cheap
Carbide are much more stronger but yeah they cant handle impact but since I'm using a table drill ...less impact + high rpm does help cut aluminium faster ...

what make me weird is that I cut through 1.2mm 6061 T-6 in a matter of second ... I didn't bother counting ..m3 hole

I rechecked in case I'm wrong ...I found this http://store.curiousinventor.com/guides/drill_speed/
suggested that 2000 rpm would be a good range to cut aluminium


It good to learn something