+60129023308 Mr Lim based in Bandar Sri Damansara. A very nice elderly gentleman. Did and serviced my Wateq membrane and washed my tangki. Every time I backwash, my water is like Cham/Kopi O colour for first 10-15 seconds.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Feb 6 2014, 10:29 AM

Ask your neighbours of their experience and how long before they change. Certain areas they clog fast and membrane works well. Personally I lean towards leaving the chlorine intact all the way and cutting it out at usage point like shower or kitchen (esp washing vege). membrane usually replaced every 3-5 years depending on dirt and water pressure loss. The downside of sand media is having little grit finding their way to the tangki which does not happen with membrane. Those may clog showerheads. Usually I combine first installation with a tangki wash. My installer does both.

This looks good as a pre-filter for sand or membrane. Do you use this?

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Feb 13 2018, 05:48 PM

For appliance protection from sand mud grit rust yes. I have friends with sand filter that are overcome and they had to replace shower wand and water pump spoil because of this. They had to install a pre-filter to exclude those then it was much better but a small amount of sand from the filter media still seen in water tangki. Based on their experience, I installed a membrane in my old DSH and it was sediment free. The tangki had to be washed after that just to ensure any remnant are eliminated. Water pump and shower wand still working like new since I sold it after living close to 7 years there.

Some of them use RO as their drinking water system and the Doulton ceramic was clean for a long time as contrasted to before where they had to clean it every so often.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Feb 14 2018, 07:54 AM

What was used before this and how did it compare?

Membrane degradation? Normal use is 3-5 years. This filter can only withstand 4 bar max. Add a sediment pre-filter such as the Secure water filter which is back washable by a twist of the filter body. Bro weikee uses that for his mother's house. Search this thread for aeiuo228's post. You can still have the membrane optionally after the Secure water filter. This way it doesn't have to deal with sediments which should reduce biofouling and should lasts 7 years. The other way is to move the membrane after tangki and water pump but have to ensure pressure cannot exceed 3.5bar and if it bursts measure, must be in place such the it had a safe place to leak to without causing a flood on the roof.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Sep 26 2018, 05:03 PM

Water pressure gauge affixed to the piping before or after or both sides will indicate the pressure on those side installed. Most pasang after but there are those who insist will pasang 2 sides but rare.

The gauges will measure in Bar, Psi, k/MPa depending but just memorize the rates will do:
1bar = 100kPa = 0.1MPa or approximately 14.503775psi.

Most likely the membrane is worn out. Normally it's recommended to change after reaching 5 years. To protect its service life, the filter like I mentioned earlier would be used as it's pre filter. But because others find the water clean enough at 1 micron, they find it that it's good enough. If you prefer it cleaner (I would) 0.01 micron is still ok for what it protects e.g. shower heads, tap aerator, washing machine, water pump, solar heater, drinking water filter, etc.

To ensure that the pressure do not exceed say a predefined threshold say 4 bar, you can pasang what's called a pressure reducer valve. Some pressure limiter /reducing valves can set between 2.0-4.5bar depending upon application. Solar water heaters or centralised water heaters in their manual will say not to exceed a certain limit and that's where they are installed usually at their inlet side. Some models also come with water pressure gauge affixed.

Also, if your home is near the water utility pump house, like just downstream of it, expect stronger pressure.

Match gauges and valves according to inlet piping diameter which usually is about 3/4" (DIN 20) nominal plumbing thread (NPT) size. Your plumber can advise what's to be used for your installation's case.

Also, I would advise that the piping (from meter to filter and filter to indoor after meter) to use HDPE rather than PVC. HDPE has higher thermal stability. PVC softens in excess of 45°C. If you can shade the filter area, all the better.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Sep 27 2018, 02:46 PM

No worries. You have to go back to membrane water filter seller and verify if the max pressure for the inside filter is 3.5 or 4 bar. Most membrane made of PAN should be 3.5bar. Rarely can it withstand 4 or 4.5 bar except the pressure vessel which can take more. There is another type of membrane media called PVDF which withstands fouling better but it's pricier. Last time a company called Euroflex(?) used to sell and they have their own booth outside Ace hardware but they are no longer around.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Sep 27 2018, 04:03 PM

Air block? Turn on another tap along the same plumbing line like washing machine or floor washing tap in the backyard.

Hmmm...lookalike of Perfect Steel models.

You can ask zheilwane as he sells them. The link I gave refers to the thread where Perfect Steel is discussed.

Chlorine must be retained in tangki. Outside filter to 1μ (micron). Sand filter is not effective beyond 10μ and only very expensive ones guarantee down to 3-5μ. Mud and silt are very fine thus the reason above for 1μ.
There are back washable ones called Secure Backwash or Dykas.

These are locally made. They are searchable on YouTube and Google.

Membrane is good for condo and even landed esp if pump and water heater even solar. The backwash requirements as you stated is necessary otherwise it will clog very fast. To protect it, a German type pre-filter up to 50μ is necessary to extend its service lifespan. This is common in China so Taobao or even Lazada can find.

If yours is landed single story have a little extra backyard space to accommodate (or condo with the piping come through here) and after tangki and pump (landed), a "sand" filter with carefully selected media that does not add more calcium into the water than there already is (Malaysia water hardness mostly is considered soft) should cut out chlorine, heavy metal and the other baddies will be fine. The one in the front already filter the brunt of the larger particles - sand, silt, rust, grit, mud- leaving this one to do the essential and do it for a long long time. Condo's bonus with sand if space is available in the balcony is you get to shower chlorine free. In Taiwan, they do this as seen below:

In Taiwan's context, they add a water softener naturally because their water has more calcium. From the video can see the German type sediment prefilter before the water softener and carbon filter SS801.

For landed, this is practical for kitchen and washing machine and is the proper way actually to centrally filter before usage and extend the service life of the filtration media. A pleated filter or membrane after that should prevent stray media from clogging any outlet. However that means rerouting to tangki from the front of the home through the roof rather than the traditional through the front, under living room floor and then to through back, kitchen, WM and up along the outer back toilet and finally tangki. The piping goes to the back descending at the point along the back toilet with a branch to the tangki along the way. At the back or goes to the washing machine then finally kitchen. The usual plumbing outlet in the kitchen that routes from the front is disabled. My old neighbours' son did it this way for them because the piping is already 30 years old and had a lot of rust inside causing low flow and rust particles which would be costly to hack and replace esp when they have marble flooring. But they filter at the front before it reaches the tangki.

Very rare but there are home owners who go to the trouble of segregating WC from the main cold distribution to bathrooms after tangki so that toilet flushing is independent of pump and filtration. This add to initial plumbing cost and it's usually done during renovation. This is because a leaky toilet valve can develop over time and empty the tangki in minutes. And compared to showering, toilet flushing is more frequent thus doing so isolate this line avoid unnecessary pump usage, even more so when a leak develops unaware wasting water and electricity and eventually harming the pump when it's dry. Isolation from post tangki filtration because WC cistern should at least have chlorine retained. This is moot in condo where point of entry filter already cut out chlorine.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Jun 14 2020, 12:11 PM