It is expected, considering that the platform was not built for brushless power in mind, so durability is an issue.

New MT is only RM350 or so ma

How much?

---

Added on May 27, 2012, 1:06 pmWell, I think i'll stick with drift for the mean time...

---

Added on May 27, 2012, 5:50 pmChanged to OTA 1-way front (rm190)... playing great for the whole afternoon until the 'rear left axle' (I think, the part which spin the rear wheel) broke....damn. Need to change to alloy also...the brushless is really too hard to handle for plastic parts.

p/s; this thing bleed my wallet thin....

---

Added on May 27, 2012, 5:51 pmreplaced by this right?

http://www.myrcstation.com/webshaper/store...roductItem=5204

This post has been edited by sphiroth: May 27 2012, 05:51 PM

err.. that one is front one way.. i use plastic cup for my rear.. only the middle part is aluminum.. more flexible to abuse.. becoz u buy the clone version on street jam R-31 it tend to broke more often.. u're suppose tu replace it with this one --> Rear solid axle

---

Added on May 28, 2012, 12:00 amhere is a good guide for beginner ---> Drift Mission

---

Added on May 28, 2012, 12:03 amyokomo best known for its quality afaik.. even plastic it is a good chassis..

This post has been edited by kayFX: May 28 2012, 12:03 AM

anything broken, just change to ori parts.

Thanks for the input.

Everyday one part broken...

Agreed. But my wallet is crying bloody tears...

check your driving style. my fren use to be like this, always got broken parts. dont go bashing too hard. slow and steady

nobody said this hobby is cheap

be prepared to spend around rm2k until you get to the stable point. then there's only minor part need to be changed. be brave my fren. ahahaha

This post has been edited by ayiesz: May 28 2012, 11:42 AM

Yeah, my driving style is quite rough (the brushless punch is really addictive) but is actually can be expected, more power, less durability (plastic maaa). The shop towkey already source me a 2nd hand axle (from other customer), later he will confirm the price. If want to order new, might be more expensive and take time. Can't wait, hand itchy already...

So total cost so far:

RTR car set (RM370)
Rx (RM58)
Charger (RM180)
5100mah battery (RM160)
EZrun Brushless (RM300)
Front 1way (RM200)
TOTAL=1258

But the experience

Glad u like it.. Some ppl just got half way then quit.. Slow n steady until ur car stable than no need to spend so much already.. Unless ur hand itchy wanna buy better remote n receiver n esc n motor.. Heheh.. First there was replacement parts.. later i dunno..

Actually, I can actually use this as part of my student project. Maybe design ESC with traction control sort of thing, which imo can be cheaper. Maybe can be tune with laptop like real car....

drift why need traction control
nowadays ESC already have that function, but expensive. entry level have ABS function.

Well, for newbie like me is a good thing to have. Maybe can control the power curve, mapping between remote to throttle...

---

Added on May 28, 2012, 2:12 pmI target the price less than 100 with wireless setting function (can change the throttle sensitivity)... What else?

This post has been edited by sphiroth: May 28 2012, 02:12 PM

better get a decent remote, like MX3X or MT4. all the throttle sensor, curve, end point adjustment, already there.

Buying is not the same of developing. I want to try to develop it myself, just for fun. Can impress people if got telemetry function like F1

---

Added on May 28, 2012, 2:53 pmBut the main thing is, its must be cheaper than the ones sold. Any ideas?

This post has been edited by sphiroth: May 28 2012, 02:53 PM

it's the remote/receiver that control most of that things.

as for ESC, try to do temp. cutoff, safe cutoff(useful when remote suddenly lost connection), throttle burst (turbo).
what's most important is the sensitivity adjustment, and also precision.

Noted Any other useful or maybe nice to have for showoff function?

blow off sound ahaha. or engine sound/nos.

Nice. Actually im also interested in nitro rc because of its sound.

nitro = higher maintenance..
make own esc sounds interesting..
rite now im doing own aluminum parts.. trying to make improve ver. chassis..

Got one of this Freescale cup competition chasis. Two independant motor for each of the rear wheel. Might be a nice thing to experiment for drifting... (kinda cheating)



This post has been edited by sphiroth: May 29 2012, 12:07 AM

anyone here start to play with FR chassis already?

front mount, rear wheel only?