QUOTE(malutapimau @ Mar 15 2014, 04:57 PM)
Bewith is a good oneNeed recommendation/advice for CarAudio system V2, Please use this thread (omg v1 Aug 2005)
Need recommendation/advice for CarAudio system V2, Please use this thread (omg v1 Aug 2005)
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Mar 17 2014, 07:44 AM
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#121
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48 posts Joined: Jun 2005 |
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Mar 21 2014, 10:18 AM
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#122
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QUOTE(malutapimau @ Mar 17 2014, 10:03 AM) thx To be honest I'm not a home hifi kaki. I've only seen what the bewith looks like, haven't really tested or used one. Probably a good idea to PM mnkh78 since he's a hifi guy and sells loads of hifi goodiesis dis it? http://www.bewith.jp/en/products/other/#/PS-30A/ its 30a, n 'not for consumer use' wor,,, ----------- looking for something like this, but something that available locally,,, http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/11552 where can get? thx,,, |
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Aug 11 2014, 11:21 AM
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#123
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48 posts Joined: Jun 2005 |
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Sep 4 2014, 09:33 AM
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#124
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Does anyone know what HUs (double din screens) have HDMI input?
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Sep 4 2014, 09:52 PM
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#125
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48 posts Joined: Jun 2005 |
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Sep 5 2014, 02:08 PM
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#126
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oh those are for mirroring. I'm talking about input from a HDMI source like a DVD player or Google Chromecast.
I'm still in the hobby but moving away from the traditional setup. Mine's running off the music from my Phone. |
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Sep 17 2014, 09:26 AM
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#127
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QUOTE(biatch0 @ Sep 16 2014, 02:46 PM) Anyone using a USB HU to play Spotify (iOS) via the USB only? Is this even possible or does AUX cable kung fu have to come out? Got the budget? I've been in a Camry that uses ipad Spotify as main source of music.Ipad--> Apple TV--> Alpine processor --> Amps --> Speakers Bypass the HU altogether and from Apple TV to processor using optical. Ipad to Apple TV using quite low loss or almost no loss connectivity. I'm going to be testing a slight variation of this setup minus the Apple TV because that has a 2 minute bootup time. |
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Jan 21 2015, 07:09 AM
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#128
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QUOTE(PedangGila @ Jan 16 2015, 09:51 AM) Underseat sub is so so lah not that great and not recommended for sound quality[/b] but it'll extend to more bass la than stock one. Actually, very recently I just heard an Eton component set powered by a cheap Crunch amp together with a MBQuartz underseat woofer in a Toyota Chaser, I was very impressed with the bass, sounded like the system had a small 10" subwoofer + sealed box. Way better than the Rogers underseat woofer I have in my Myvi. I think the new underseat woofers these days are way better than the old ones we used to have. These days sound systems isn't about the branding anymore, even the cheap and cheerful ones sound good. |
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Feb 4 2015, 02:47 PM
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#129
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Mar 17 2015, 07:38 AM
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#130
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QUOTE(lishan @ Mar 17 2015, 01:14 AM) hi all sifu 1. no cross over means your HU or an external processor is needed to process the crossover portion. Your amps will need to individually power the tweeter and midbass. If you have good amps and it can process highpass, bandpass, lowpass, then even better. Else use external processor or built-in processor in HU. More expensive setup but probably more rewarding.im planning to get components set before gst dominations 6s 2014 model that without crossover and dominations 6s 2015 model that came with crossover which one is better? i email dominations indonesia the girl reply me 2. with cross over - cheaper option. Only need one amp to power everything up and you don't have to think about crossover. All depends on what you currently got. |
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May 26 2015, 10:58 AM
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#131
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QUOTE(peaceboy97 @ May 25 2015, 05:48 PM) Hi All taiko taiko & ICE sifu sifu, I Personally think that you think too much. And I also personally think that the more devices you introduce to the system, the more "coloured" the sound will be. Less is more.I'm very interest in ICE, so I prefer for SQ & SQL, there are 2 options where the picture show below. so which is the best for SQ or SQL system.? TQTQTQTQ.. Don't be thinking too hard on all these things, sometimes it's the tuning that makes the sound, not just the equipment. |
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May 27 2015, 08:31 AM
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#132
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QUOTE(peaceboy97 @ May 26 2015, 03:45 PM) HI Izso, Whether active or passive setup, it's a personal preference. I am an active setup user and I'm quite happy with that. I've used custom passives, original stock passive and I just didn't quite like the lack of flexibility. But at the same time I know some people that use super expensive custom passives that cost more than their speakers and they are absolutely in love with their setup. I've heard their setup too and it's no doubt quite impressive. Then there's the issue of some passives that are massive power drainers like the Dynaudio passives. You need big power to drive Dynaudios via their passives. So you mean that I have to choose from which.? base on the draft .? 1) cause my concern now is to use a 3 way Electronic cross over with passive or w/o is better.? 2) rear speaker is it necessary to be use to enhance the performance.? So ultimately it all boils down to personal preference. Are you going to DIY this install? If not go find a responsible tuner and explain to him what you want. Listen to a few setups (that the tuner can introduce) and then explain to him what you want and what you don't want. Then just pay the money. |
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Nov 12 2015, 07:10 AM
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#133
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QUOTE(junlone @ Nov 8 2015, 07:15 PM) Anyone can give advise or comment on below? Why on earth do you need 2 sets of the same component speaker? Go with package 1 la. But personally I wouldn't use that unknown amp and that Focal component.1st package Focal auditor r165s2 components for front Re audio sa90.4 4 channel amp Re audio cvx 12" subwoofer 2nd package Focal auditor r165s2 X 2 sets Re audio sa500.5 5 channel amplifier Re audio cvx 12" subwoofer |
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Nov 12 2015, 06:15 PM
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#134
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Nov 13 2015, 05:42 PM
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#135
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QUOTE(junlone @ Nov 13 2015, 08:44 AM) How about below? Branding wise it looks ok. But sound wise I've never heard Pioneer coaxials before. If you're able to test the sound before deciding on whether to buy it or not, would be your best bet.Pioneer AVH-X5750BT Headunit Pioneer TS-G1645R 6.5Inch 2-Way Coaxial Speakers 250W Max Alpine PMX-F640 4 Channel Amplifier Class-A/B 640W Max ALPINE SWS-12D4 Type-S 1500W 12" Car Subwoofer 500W RMS BASS Stereo Sub |
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Nov 18 2015, 08:36 AM
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#136
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Dec 17 2015, 04:16 PM
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#137
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QUOTE(dlyz @ Dec 17 2015, 11:07 AM) - [b]My ride: Vios J 2015 10k very good budget. Dynaudio speakers for the car are awesome. You'll need substantial amps to power them though, the Dynaudios are quite power hungry speakers. Recommend something powerful like the Helix A2, TRU Billet 4x100, Brax 4x100, Genesis Dual Mono. I've never heard them paired with other amps so I wouldn't know what else to recommend.- [b]Prefers SQ/SPL/SQL: SQ. Like neutral/warm. Hate sibilance in female voice. Hate bright. - [b]File format/medium used for my source: FLAC, APE, MP3, CD - [B]Music genre: Female vocal, female jazz, pop, RnB, Country, Oldies, mainstream. - [B]Budget: RM10k - [b]Setup type preferences: 2 Way - [b]Other requirements (if any): Is it possible to do without void warranty? Thinking of add DSP to stock HU, change speaker, add tweeter, add amp, better wire, 4 door sound proofing. Subwoofer can delay if budget not enuf. If i like Dynaudio home speaker, how is Dynaudio car speaker. |
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Dec 19 2015, 07:50 AM
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#138
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QUOTE(dlyz @ Dec 17 2015, 06:02 PM) Depends on what type of sub bass you're looking for. In a car, you can't replicate that kind of bass but it's pretty good mid-bass. Perhaps you could figure out a way to seal off the Dyns to make it work like a sub bass. |
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Jan 27 2016, 11:34 AM
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#139
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QUOTE(ZZR-Pilot @ Jan 25 2016, 10:36 PM) Got a Pioneer 10" dvc sub rated at 350rms... thinking of stuffing it in a sealed enclosure & hooking it up to a 5-channel d-class amp whose sub channel puts out 280w at 2 ohms. Nothing wrong with underpowering the sub, but it's pointless to do so since you'll be severely under utilizing the sub. Percussions has a lot of tapping and snares I would assume and with a weak sub you won't be able to get that feel.Is the amp too underpowered for SQ enjoyment? I listen mostly to latin music with lots of percussions. Not the headbanging fengtau type.... too old for that stuff. |
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Feb 4 2016, 07:45 AM
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#140
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QUOTE(ZZR-Pilot @ Jan 27 2016, 12:04 PM) Thanks Howie. You're not going to 'blow' the sub la, on the amp you'll get to fiddle with the gain and as long as you're not tweaking it to the absolute maximum, you're not going to blow the sub with 350w if you had that much to begin with. And generally speaking that's the RMS handling power of the sub, not necessarily the max. Personally I like to feed the sub more power than the RMS power for a few reasons. I like my amps to run less utilized so in future any upgrades the amp can handle. Possible also hoping the amp runs cooler with less gain turned up. The other thing is I personally have tried underpowering a sub before and it just didn't sound right. But I don't understand... how can a sub rated at 350W RMS blow when fed with 350W of power? Thanks. Got a question - how underpowered is underpowered? 25% below the sub's RMS output? 30% blow? I hear underpowering a sub will feed it with distortion which will kill the sub over time. Trouble is there's no rule of thumb on how low you can go when underpowering a sub before creating problems. I don't think most of us are rich enough to buy superduper powderful monoblocks, so I think my concern is shared by many. Your sub RMS is 350w (I assume), you don't need a super duper amp to give you 350w. Most bridgeable amps can give that sort of power and most monoblocks minimally provide 500w. So you don't have to be rich to buy a decent amp. The only thing is you need to know what you're buying. In a lot of cases, amps over-rate themselves and produce less than advertised or something along those lines. Just stick with reputable brands and reputable sellers and you'll be fine. This post has been edited by izso: Feb 4 2016, 07:46 AM |
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