I think that means you have to service there. Cannot just buy the lube and cabut...
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Mar 9 2012, 01:23 PM
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#21
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I think that means you have to service there. Cannot just buy the lube and cabut...
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Mar 9 2012, 01:34 PM
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#22
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QUOTE(abong8 @ Mar 9 2012, 01:22 PM) Actually for PE, got no exp. Now I still using Petronas Semi and gonna use back Petronas semi at 15K coz my 20K service include FOC Petronas Semi. Only thinking to change to other brand at 25K mileage.CKdenion (I think) when used Idemitsu FS 5W40 experienced either leaking or vaporization meaning somehow go lesser after some time. Might be his engine problem or he measure wrongly initially, no idea. I've only used it for both my City. Mineral ok, FS strongly recommended but had a bit of bad experience with semi, engine noise and vibration worse than its mineral. I might be trying out Idemitsu semi again at 25K to see if its ok or not for PE. However Idemitsu darn expensive lar....practically same price with Syn 800. I used Idemitsu FS for my City for my wife takes half a year to hit 5K if ever and the fact that I can get Idemitsu FS at RM140 to RM150. If go workshop, the lube will cost abt RM200 including service....very expensive for 3 month change at 5K mileage. May as well use Cusco from Xan... Added on March 9, 2012, 1:40 pm QUOTE(junhowe @ Mar 9 2012, 01:26 PM) Then those voucher should be wasted.. Yes, it should be original. Either that or get from Castrol Authorised Center, whereever that is....You can always stick back to Petronas SS 800, buy at petrol station or directly from SC even better coz same price. No great performance but actually not bad either. Just skip Shell lube, either too many fakes and its not performing well for PE even if its original. If you want, you can just go Caltex and buy Havoline Semi. Xan swears by it and its definitely original from Caltex station (I doubt Havoline got fake anyway, just like Idemitsu)..Added on March 9, 2012, 1:29 pm That other day i went Jusco and they do sell Castrol Semi-Oil, around Rm9x.. So we have no worries about imitation product being sold over there..? Thanks This post has been edited by Cavino: Mar 9 2012, 01:42 PM |
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Mar 9 2012, 02:59 PM
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#23
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QUOTE(abong8 @ Mar 9 2012, 02:56 PM) Ooo.. Like that one.. Magnatec at sparepart shops around 80-85.. But ori or not is the matter la.. For magnatec, if want sure ori, have to buy at higher price in SC for 118.. For your choice, its better to play safe and go for havoline semi. Just too many fakes out there, even mechanics or spare part shops ppl cannot differentiate... |
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Mar 9 2012, 03:57 PM
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#24
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QUOTE(raimy_m9 @ Mar 9 2012, 03:53 PM) thanks for the advice..i'll be sure to use it..haha.. and i'll wait for another for flirting 101.. You will be seen as a stalker if you continue doing that....MOST STALKERS started that way.but the thing is..i dont really speak to her..in one week..even though meet her everyday i never speak to her... its just that i troll her on facebook everyday...she knew that i troll her...i even troll on her saying i like her...haha..but even that..even when were on a lift alone togehther, i never spoke a word.. You have to find you guts to approach her face to face and chit chat, jokes if you're good at it....found lots of girls relaxed when you joked with them, one of key factor in getting a girl....don't practive myself but the casanova I know do that in front of me....man you should see how many girls APPROACH him rather than he goes after them... Oh....joking does not mean making a clown out of yourself, that is not good to get a girl... AND if you do lame jokes.....on second thought, don't even try joking. This post has been edited by Cavino: Mar 9 2012, 03:59 PM |
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Mar 10 2012, 03:53 PM
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#25
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Just back from stiff ring installation. Spend additional rm80 to replace a damage a camber screw and dough to adjust all 4 camber and alignment.
@#%$&, while driving back, realise car veer to the left so reach klang and go to my usual tyre shop with trusted alignment skills. @#%$&....all alignment and cambers, entire setup veered to the left. Had to redo everything. Bloody rm80 fly liao. This post has been edited by Cavino: Mar 10 2012, 04:16 PM |
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Mar 10 2012, 05:51 PM
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#26
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QUOTE(ngeo88 @ Mar 10 2012, 04:20 PM) luckly my alignment not doing there I reach klang only realise when I let go steering, it goes left. Not worth to go all the way to cheras for that. Somemore not sure their machine ok or not now.This post has been edited by Cavino: Mar 10 2012, 05:59 PM |
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Mar 10 2012, 05:58 PM
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#27
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QUOTE(ckdenion @ Mar 10 2012, 04:51 PM) You do alignment there?I like their installation of ring. Look quite pro, nice guys. Suspect machine problem cuz he does adjust to balance as indicated by machine. Added on March 10, 2012, 6:00 pm QUOTE(jackyap84 @ Mar 10 2012, 05:04 PM) Rm 190. Turned out total alignment and camber adjustment cost total equal.This post has been edited by Cavino: Mar 10 2012, 06:05 PM |
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Mar 10 2012, 08:48 PM
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#28
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QUOTE(junhowe @ Mar 10 2012, 08:04 PM) You have to call chin first cuz shop no keep stock. chin will bring the stock.Preliminary drive, actually I don't feel any improvement in handling, maybe becuz I'm already very satisfied with with stock handling. On vibration, err more noise appear instead, a bit more than usual. Don't feel any improvement on vibration for now. The only improvement I felt is the crossing bump and rough road. More solid, firm, very good to minimize rattling. Rough road very minor improvement maybe because my current stock actually handle rough road pretty well. Hline does have better nvh. Overall its quite possible my current subframe hole already quite tight thus putting the rings only gives minor improvement. The alignment still had very slight veering to the left, can be ignore but then can it be an unintended side effect. Also possible the bad things already there all along and the tightening and improvement from the ring makes all these becomes obvious. Finally I will only drive my car on tuesday onward on daily basis. So will give my actual daily driving exp feedback on thursday or something. This post has been edited by Cavino: Mar 10 2012, 08:52 PM |
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Mar 11 2012, 08:20 PM
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#29
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QUOTE(ZenGTMM @ Mar 11 2012, 03:55 PM) Mmm, maybe that is the reason stiff ring have more improvement on anti vibration on you while mine practically feel no improvement from that aspect. My ride current cabin noise is quite silent except for my driver right air duct area occasional rattling that actually increased frequency on the day I installed the rings. The almost silent cabin is one of the reason I'm more sensitive to engine noise. |
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Mar 11 2012, 08:45 PM
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#30
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QUOTE(muslayer @ Mar 11 2012, 08:24 PM) Not so much. Don't feel improvement on vibration cuz my ride does not have much vibration on the first place. Handling don't feel improvement cuz I feel our stock already very good liao. Only improvement I feel is minor firming when going thru bump and rough road but honestly my ride stock bump and rough road noise very quiet ler.However this is based on one way ride back to klang. Not enuf to be conclusive. This post has been edited by Cavino: Mar 11 2012, 08:47 PM |
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Mar 11 2012, 09:17 PM
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#31
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QUOTE(ziggy87 @ Mar 11 2012, 08:48 PM) u both sleep earlier and dream la Older car definitely more obvious. Car with lousy handling would like that too. However let me drive a week before making final conclusion. Not fair to judge so soon just like one of swift guys. Say no improvement at all but after a short while come back raving about its massive rough road improvement.if he win olympic, maybe got la so i assume this stiff ring is more useful for older cars..? |
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Mar 12 2012, 08:34 AM
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#32
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QUOTE(ZenGTMM @ Mar 11 2012, 09:27 PM) Nope, at least I did not notice it unless you mention it. Probably going to try feel any other difference in handling, anti-vibration response on tomorrow onwards. Today still driving Civic. |
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Mar 12 2012, 11:35 AM
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#33
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QUOTE(The_FQ400 @ Mar 12 2012, 01:58 AM) Chill chill... I came from cave ma... XD I don't get that in olden cars that's why I don't know... I mean the seatbelt pretensioner Seat belt pretensioner is an addition to the standard locking mechanism. While original locking mechanism prevent seat belt from extending further, those equip with additional pretensioner (most modern car do) will pull back instead and tighten the seat belt pulling the passengers in into their seat in the event of a collision. As for bear bear question on air bag can pop up even on slight collision kah...no it would not UNLESS its sensors are faulty. Usually the sensors of air bag are place in front, slightly behind the MAIN CAR FRAME in the engine bay. Main car frames can be 2 sticks left/right extending to front within the engine bay. Its very strong and usual minor hit will not damage it...it needs a strong collision to squash the frame to the back. And when it does, it will reach the sensors. When its about to hit the sensor or when it does at split seconds, signal will be send to activate the airbags. So go crash until radiator, also won't reach the frame, go in further deeper it will reach the frame and the strong frame will stop the impact, but impact too great till it started squashing the frame like pancake, there comes the airbag.. Oh...btw, my Civic fully stock, tyre also stock...except for new PS3 replacement at rear, low mileage 30K. City has some very minor cosmetic mod but no engine mod, just bk, 4point strut, VS, photo conductor cable and Hankook V12 tyres, over 90K mileage liao. Great enuf for daily drives but wife cheong kong, so now driving PE for daily working trips.. This post has been edited by Cavino: Mar 12 2012, 11:54 AM |
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Mar 12 2012, 01:16 PM
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#34
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QUOTE(ZenGTMM @ Mar 12 2012, 12:09 PM) Irony.....cannot afford PS3 the game console (I still drool everytime I passby a console shop but everytime I want to buy, something else will pop up...kid want extra class, households items rosak, need to repair things, grrr........but can buy PS3 the tyres at dealer price of course, safety first mah...if not, tak boleh tahan cost of overpriced Michelin tyres. Had to admit....PS3 is a more balanced and better tyres than previous PP2. This post has been edited by Cavino: Mar 12 2012, 01:18 PM |
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Mar 13 2012, 08:45 AM
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#35
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QUOTE(VincentChen @ Mar 12 2012, 06:56 PM) if you didnt drive car like mad, you dont really actually need a strut bar, it doesnt help in anti roll, neither comfort, only to prevent chassis deformation Ooi....that is not the only benefit. Its not an anti-roll that fits at bottom, of course no help anti roll. None of those bars increase comfortability, all are about enhancing rigidity....and as we know rigid equal less comfort.As you mentioned, its to prevent chassis deformation but stiffening the body thus reduced flexing. The main benefit to standard driving is increased responsiveness due to flexing reduction. PE already has good handling, installating a strut will only help increase responsiveness slightly. However putting it into a car with not so great handling like City, it works like a charm on responsiveness improvement. THAT is the EFFECT of chassis stiffening besides chassis deformation. Added on March 13, 2012, 8:55 am QUOTE(raimy_m9 @ Mar 13 2012, 12:36 AM) well..for bulb..then okay lor..i'll take it..pm me the numbers.. Have you tried re-balancing your tyres? Balancing runs can also cause vibration at high speed, at low speed, most won't vibrate unless balancing runs out very badly.i dunno about rims..usually vibrate at low speed..this one high speed...i dont suspect the rim would be the culprit..cos before with wira i got jatuh into lubang and the front wheel vibrate a lot..cant even do 50kmh.. This post has been edited by Cavino: Mar 13 2012, 08:55 AM |
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Mar 13 2012, 09:32 AM
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#36
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Darn, running on higher speed, my PE still veer to the left but not as badly as before, in some cases, can still go straight with slight steering adjustment but if left on its own, will still veer left eventually. Haih....maybe have to re-check with shop later and see if can re-correct.
Maybe, its possible the re-alignment of subframe (maybe only slightly depending if my subframe bolt hold runs earlier) has this unintended side effect or is it possible its caused by the tyres due to rotation from the rear (no obvious tread makan)? Maybe the stiffening of the bolt hold movement makes what has been there all along more obvious with the installation of the ring makes the steering wheel slightly heavier (increased responsiveness?) thus I realised I'm adjusting the steering all along to correct left veering since its heavier now? Lots of questions but no answer yet. This post has been edited by Cavino: Mar 13 2012, 09:37 AM |
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Mar 13 2012, 12:58 PM
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#37
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QUOTE(ngeo88 @ Mar 13 2012, 11:36 AM) Cavino when you do balencing did they chesk the rear wheel as well ? i had done the rear wheel checking last saturday and found my rear wheel chanber is out like / \ wide at botton narrow on top abot 15 degree, this is the first time i do rear whell checking, normally tyer shop will not check the rear wheel and the said FR car where got alignment for rear whell. After i done that my car more silence. Did everything front, rear, camber, alignment. TWICE. One at Cheras and recorrection at Klang. My Klang wan darn expensive but quite trust their alignment service. One guy specialize just doing alignment. Also wondering if the veering might be caused by the tyre or not coz I rotate the tyre at Cheras, so the current front tyre is from the rear. No obvious treadwear tho......For the veer left i have this issue since before i ring my car, and i was told by the installer my subfram has been out, after stiff ring i go do angain the alingment my fornt chamber are \ |, and a little bit of aligment off, now my car as you only high speed >130km/h hand free car will veer left, it may be cause by the tyer unevent ware. Any way i target will change tyer on May. Recent i want change tyer because my first time balancing 9 mont ago the tyer shop found 1 of my original NCT5 tred was not in good forming, when the tyer rotate on the balacing machine can see the tred running a bit zig-zag that time i was aldy 6k km so not able to claim warranty. This post has been edited by Cavino: Mar 13 2012, 01:00 PM |
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Mar 13 2012, 02:39 PM
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#38
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QUOTE(KKW @ Mar 13 2012, 01:09 PM) "From the MSDS for X1R it states that its main active ingredient is Chlorinated Paraffin, this is the same stuff that has got Duralube in trouble.. trouble being when Chlorinated Paraffin�s are exposed to high temperature (at even lower temperatures then you can expect in the engine) they break down to hydrochloric acid which consumes other standard beneficial additives in the engine oil such as VI improvers etc and turns the whole shooting match acidic.. leaving the engine unprotected and eating away at the seals."In another word, Chlorinated Paraffin works BUT not for high temperature usage. Unfortunately ALL engine falls into high temperature category....in another word "might" have short term improvement AND very bad for the engine life... Other reports on ANY and ALL oil addictives Ed Hackett, chemist at the University of Nevada Desert Research Center, says, "Oil additives should not be used. The oil companies have gone to great lengths to develop an additive pack age that meets the vehicle's requirements. If you add anything to this oil you may upset the balance and prevent the oil from performing to specification." There were at least 2 companies that used clorinated parrafins in oil supplements. Both of those companies were fined by the FTC for false advertising. The stuff can work at first but there are issues with accelerated wear over time. The oil companies apparently tested this stuff a very long time ago and rejected clorinated parrafins as oil additives a long time ago. This post has been edited by Cavino: Mar 13 2012, 02:40 PM |
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Mar 13 2012, 02:43 PM
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#39
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QUOTE(VincentChen @ Mar 13 2012, 02:31 PM) I think someone is using bear bear account and type stuff that finally make sense...either that or bear bear pay someone to type sifu level stuff for him to make himself looks good.... |
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Mar 13 2012, 03:10 PM
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#40
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QUOTE(Fubar20 @ Mar 13 2012, 02:58 PM) Added on March 13, 2012, 3:00 pm Oh...the link. The first paragraph is a respond from Autochild (2005) in AW forum. The other, go read this...very good report ler... http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/snakeoil.htm The last paragraph from a post in Bob is the Oil Guy Addition "Consider this: Most gear lubes used to contain chlorinated compounds but was removed because of the corrosion problems associated with it, and with the environmental/biohazards associated with it as well. Gearlubes now have additives contain a mild potassium borate additve and or a PZS additive with a basing compound." "Chorinated Parafins are real tough on copper bushings, with out a specialized copper corrosion inhibitor as well. The corrosion protection is almost always depleted within a normal oil change interval. A very short term performance gain. A definite long term disaster. The reaction with ferrous metals is ferrous chloride, under heat and pressure." Short term gain....long term damage... This post has been edited by Cavino: Mar 13 2012, 03:17 PM |
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