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 -+-LYN Official Proton Persona Owners Club V34-+-

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Cavino
post Mar 6 2012, 09:42 AM

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QUOTE(raimy_m9 @ Mar 6 2012, 09:24 AM)
haha..i only fill when it blinking..too much pressure build up inside tank when opening the tank cap..thats why advisable to pump when the lights up..
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Not really, it's actually advisable to fill up when there's at least 1/3 tank left. The emptier the tank, the more vaporization will occur. If you drive straight from house to station (not after long drive), there should not be much pressure build up.
Cavino
post Mar 6 2012, 09:51 AM

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QUOTE(haur @ Mar 6 2012, 09:43 AM)
Now which is which.......some say the Oil icon will blink, now some say [--.--] will blink.
I'm so blur now! My [--.--] blink very long de, I drive almost 40km, but still didnt blink. Balls shrinked, faster refuel on the way back from office. LOL!
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Don't bother with the --.--, just drive till blinking. Depending on your right foot, you should have abt 30 to 50km of fuel left. Personally I would advice filling up when it light up. Always play safe to avoid damaging your fuel pump and engine.
Cavino
post Mar 6 2012, 12:02 PM

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Technically they can void warranty if use own lube. However I have not yet hear a case of actual warranty void becoz we use our own lube. Just make sure the lube conform to the requirement W40 to W50 as indicated in the manual and its a branded original. The only thing they can argue is you use fake lube, spoil engine. Thus it is always best to get an official receipt from the store you buy. Still its a risk.

For my Honda, I very cautious, use their lube but then Honda using Idemitsu mineral, good and clean performance for mineral.

I'm going to use their lube till after 20K coz free service and part. After that, I gonna use my own lube, maybe Idemitsu or Havoline or Cusco if got source. When I install LCP, I sort of give up on warranty unless something major happen, then have no choice, change back CP (very mafan)...hope hope nothing happen..old ppl like me cannot tahan excitement and worry too much....

Actually if you change a light bulb yourself also void warranty liao on the wiring....

This post has been edited by Cavino: Mar 6 2012, 12:05 PM
Cavino
post Mar 6 2012, 12:07 PM

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One of the reason I won't buy Castrol outside unless its a know source. Castrol has one of the largest fake stock outside beside Shell and Bardahl...

Crossed finger Idemitsu no fake stock coz not available outside as Idemitsu only sell directly to workshop and never to spare part shops...very expensive thus not popular at all, less chances of ppl want to spend time to do fake for that..I hope.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Mar 6 2012, 12:09 PM
Cavino
post Mar 6 2012, 06:37 PM

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QUOTE(KKW @ Mar 6 2012, 06:35 PM)
You can feel the air is not cold suddenly and like extra boost to your engine..
Are FNF kaki? If not, need take a while let ECU to learn
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Err..are you sure its the ECU that do that to the air cond? It shouldn't.
Cavino
post Mar 6 2012, 07:02 PM

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QUOTE(VincentChen @ Mar 6 2012, 06:54 PM)
mah ECU also like to drag gear, i hate it
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If it does not drag...your car is not going to move much....thats why we need to the LCP to minimize drags...switch gear fast...
Cavino
post Mar 6 2012, 07:26 PM

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QUOTE(xandras @ Mar 6 2012, 07:10 PM)
Drag gear = gear doesn't go up.
Don't drag = gear goes up quickly.

According to my understanding of what u said = Don't drag gear = car doesn't move = gear goes up fast.
With LCP = minimize gear = switch gear fast.

LCP = Switch gear fast. = not dragging gear = not moving?

whistling.gif
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Oops....what I meant is with lower torque curve, it had to drag for more pickup before switching to next gear. However this also tend to hold back the car thus overdraggin.

Where when we accelerate forward in gear 1 to 2, mine used to pull back the car too much before it switch to next ratio range, thus we'll either overaccelerate on the pedal wasting fuel but car not pushing forward enuf or we just control our right foot and car not pushing forward as we like....ala lower torque curve.

For me, LCP enhanced this curve giving ample torque improvement at these ranges. No more gear pulling back for me, however it gear change jerk is definitely more obvious (earlier, can barely feel), probably becoz I still tend to accelerate more than I should when it change gear earlier (still used to older longer wait before gear switching). Unfortunately at mid to high speed, it tends to scream much louder than before....

This post has been edited by Cavino: Mar 6 2012, 07:32 PM
Cavino
post Mar 6 2012, 08:27 PM

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QUOTE(xandras @ Mar 6 2012, 07:54 PM)
smile.gif
Actually gear dragging is good in some points for high rev auto cars. It allows higher rpm dragging, as different engines have different torque peak @ RPM. Reaching this peak allows the car to accelerate harder, but shifting beyond this zone delays the acceleration as when the rpm drops in the next gear, it takes time for the RPM to build up again. Which is why DSG, CVT, PDK gearboxes are invented. To reduce shift time, ensure perfect shift or torque across the range. For CVT it maintains the torque throughout the RPM.
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Yes, that do makes sense. After installing LCP, the gear jerk SHOULD BE when the RPM drop thus the jerk. Thats why no feel jerk in before LCP. Mmm...I think that means its not performing optimally anymore. Sacrificing balance for more low end torque. I do feel a bit regret as noise seems higher (don't know long term detrimental effect) while its pretty smooth earlier. However the gain in low end acceleration is very noticeable but unfortunately, at higher speed, no gain but more noise...don't like it at high speed compare than before. Give and take.


Cavino
post Mar 7 2012, 08:53 AM

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QUOTE(xandras @ Mar 6 2012, 09:29 PM)
Yeah. Pros and cons. But perhaps the noise part is just u, cos others didnt really complained about the noise, rite? Or maybe their ears are just not as sensitive as urs.

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You're right on that, I'm quite partial to any extra noise from cars thus usually are able to notice something gone wrong before it turns major, I do drive with radio off for abt half an hour before switching on radio to identify any difference in noise and sound, a habit I practiced for a long time liao.

Zen do mentioned increased noise after I mentioned that in my post and some others do have a passing mention tho its not an issue at all for them. I guess they either like the bassier sound (a bit more vroom vroom feel) or like you said, I'm more sensitive to it. Main reason, there is still a lingering doubt on "possible" increased vibration and its "possible" long term effect.

I've always prefered comfort mod over performance but with PE, cannot tahan auto h-line start/stop low end torque. Actually low end torque is ok but ALWAYS got my queue cut in a jam coz cannot accelerate fast enuf, so a bit frustrated on that thus finally gives in to LCP....now that Zen mentioned Stiff Ring for comfort....cannot tahan again liao..

Oh...Zapdos, as much as I complain abt the increase noise, I also mentioned I don't like it at high speed....but I don't do high speed most of time while low end torque increment is a boon during jams that I usually get myself into....These past few days, I managed to close the gap FAST enuf while lots of cars try to aggresively cut into my lane...haha....the satisfaction of it beats out the bassier engine noise thingy...thus I will be keeping my LCP....

This post has been edited by Cavino: Mar 7 2012, 09:15 AM
Cavino
post Mar 7 2012, 09:20 AM

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And the extreme satisfaction of someone cheonging me until toll booth, then after toll the increased low end acceleration makes me runs way faster before the cheonger finally chase up. Before that, damn frust seeing these cheonger unable to cut me, then reach toll booth, from slow position zoom past me while my auto futilely try to accelerate ahead from near stop speed...
Cavino
post Mar 7 2012, 09:46 AM

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QUOTE(ngeo88 @ Mar 7 2012, 09:38 AM)
i wan ask Cavino wat car he outrun
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Saga, Myvi, Vios.....these are the cars that like to cheong ppl...no bmw or its like lar....if those cheong me, usually I step aside rather than accelerate, what can 70+ hp do.....

Mmm...I think if all goes well, I might be installing stiff ring on Saturday before my 15K service to see if it solve the up/down ramp steering shaft and below clang clang noise...

Heard some say bolt from subframe should not remove coz once remove, it will easily loosen next time compromising the subframe...not sure if its valid...so another doubt there....cautious me just cannot install anything without worrying this and that...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Mar 7 2012, 09:51 AM
Cavino
post Mar 7 2012, 10:20 AM

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QUOTE(ngeo88 @ Mar 7 2012, 09:57 AM)
your car still new and it should be no problem, if those car after few year maybe will face the problem, if you wan ring u better pre-order because the ring was not sell at the shop, need order than the seller will bring it to the shop for installation.
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Haha...I tot its those cars with a few years life that benefit the most from stiff ring installation...

Anyway, will arrange with Chin (the seller) if decided to install this week. A bit far lar this panel shop at Cheras. Have to travel far from Klang on Saturday. Hopefully at 11:30 to 12pm, Kesas and its road to Cheras ain't jam like shit....
Cavino
post Mar 7 2012, 03:53 PM

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Should not be no stock kuah....coz Proton report got too much stock due to the new Bank Loan requirement tightening.

Unless they going to phase out PE in preparation for P2 or P3 whatever cannot remember....
Cavino
post Mar 7 2012, 04:26 PM

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QUOTE(yOuNg$tEr @ Mar 7 2012, 04:19 PM)
will try, thanks.
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But then if they truly phase out PE, you sure you want to get a NEW car that will be phase out in a couple of month??? Why not check out their latest model, the Px-xxx something...
Cavino
post Mar 7 2012, 11:30 PM

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QUOTE(junhowe @ Mar 7 2012, 11:23 PM)
Warranty don't kacau/void..? your car warranty period over edy?
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Any mod also will void warranty. However never heard of warranty void cuz of spark plug. I think that is a pretty safe upgrade. As for drop in, it will technically dirty the throttle. So if you want to claim anything, just switch back the stock filter.
Cavino
post Mar 8 2012, 11:33 AM

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QUOTE(ngeo88 @ Mar 8 2012, 11:27 AM)
ha ha the whole bundle of banana gone half ? many tupai party at ur hose aldy
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You did the stiff ring, right? If yes, did you do at their panel work shop, Lian Hup. Want to know if their tyre alignment service ok or not. Will be installing stiff ring this sat at 10+am.
Cavino
post Mar 8 2012, 02:04 PM

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No need to know first wan....just go and when meet them, say "you're all so old"......they will let you know straightaway who they are...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Mar 8 2012, 02:05 PM
Cavino
post Mar 8 2012, 02:42 PM

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No lar...he say a cat scratch his car and a tupai ate the banana....
Cavino
post Mar 8 2012, 09:51 PM

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QUOTE(K.Lee @ Mar 8 2012, 09:40 PM)
Holy!!!!

Drex, my OEM CP got 7 holes rclxub.gif
[attachmentid=2727944]
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Waliaou eh!!! I quickly ran and check my cp....luckily only 1 hole. What a relieve!!
Cavino
post Mar 9 2012, 01:18 PM

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QUOTE(junhowe @ Mar 9 2012, 01:12 PM)
I mean for bulk purchase cusco oil.. I need semi, not fully syn bro  nod.gif

Which day u guys going.? Just slot in early morning like nobody business?  sweat.gif
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Yes, its best to use semi for now to save coz you still need to change lube at 5K....that's only over 4K mileage. Not worth it to change to FS. Some will say extend lar to 10K since FS but then I would advise you still need 2nd round lube change early to clear out the residue of metal shaving leftover after 1K lube change. For other cars like Honda, no need that coz they already done that in the factory.

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