I just to advised if possible do not use ABS water pipe.Instead please use normal PVC pipe. For PVC pipe please ensure that your contractor using Class 6 and 7.The ABS pipe is not resistance to acid, very easily 'makan' by acid.

This post has been edited by tomjason: Feb 24 2012, 12:27 PM

Isn't ABS some sort of plastic pipe?

You can't use pvc for the main pipe?

and... where does this "Acid" come from ?

your using ABS piping for potable water or industrial use ?

where ur acid come from??? I thought ABS pipe is as strong as Poly pipe ???

just in case you guys need to research acid resistance piping/chemical transport

http://plasticpipe.org/pdf/tr-19_thermopla...of_chemical.pdf

This post has been edited by JinXXX: Feb 23 2012, 11:41 AM

From underground soil or acid rain or mortar when the pipe need below?

when i renovated my house, my new extension house all using ABS (ABS – Acrylonitrile - Butadiene - Styrene
ABS is a modern thermoplastic polymer found in everyday applications such as construction site safety helmets.) and i also changed my existing pipe after the meter right to my new extension house (underground). Before i concreted...i pour anti termite treatment (this treatment is acidic), then i concreted the upper portion (underneath is ABS pipe). After a while, water seeping to ground. I hv to break the concrete cement and found that, the acidic cause the ABS leaking. I got the pic but do not know how to post in lowyat). I hv poured 5 location anti termite (underneath is ABS pipe). All 5 location the ABS 'bocor'. Terrible man... i hv break all my concrete cement. Then i had discussion with one plumber', he said he will never to use the ABS.He had experienced before.


Somehow the ABS pipe is more expensive and you have to wait for 12 hours before the glue and the ABS glued together. Not like normal pvc..sekejap can use.

Just bear in mind, PVC pipe joints are not capable to handling internal water pump, which many are installing these days. The pipe isn't the problem, the joints are.

My tips : for PVC joint..if you want stronger connection especially if you use water pump..please use special glue about RM30 per tin..do not use normal PVC glue.

One more tips, if you cant find that glue, tips to glue the PVC (so that become stronger)...please clean the pipe with eg thinner before glue and also put glue also the edge of the pipe, not only the around of the pipe before glue.



TQ

This post has been edited by tomjason: Feb 23 2012, 12:12 PM

The Joints are as thick as grade 6. Is fine.

Let me clarify, the thickness of Class 6 PVC Pipes is not the issue. The joints which uses glue are the culprit for leakage. Glue type joints are not capable of handling high capacity water pump. The failure may not be instant. It may occur few months or years down the road. But hacking and replacing leak pipes will be a headache, especially if it is in the toilet where the wall are all tiles.

why PVC pipe can't handle water pump??? class "E" already have pressure rating of 15 bar, class 6 & 7 > 20 bar buy those with sirim like "paling"/ "BBB" NOT those "www" found in hardware shop, u'll never face any joint problem for pvc piping.

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Added on February 23, 2012, 12:36 pmto me, i've experiencing Lots of ABS fitting leaking, esp elbow

This post has been edited by skng03: Feb 23 2012, 12:36 PM

SO what is the best for main pipe? SPecially underground from the water meter to the kicthen?

That is actually not glue. The liquid will melt the PVC, and it will seal like cement both.

the best for underground from meter to kitchen is stainless steel but the price is high. Just use poly or PVC....for PVC not recommend direct expose to sunlight..but for PVC class 6 & 7 should be ok. poly and PVC easy to maintain if leak.

tips : you should run the water pipe along at the fence (under ground) so that when leak easy to maintain. do no run the water pipe under ground through your hall,room,etc...if leak..problem.


for info...my renovation 22x42 feet is at the back of my existing main house. existing house already had 2 water tank..i add another 2 water tank for my new reno house..that means my house got 4 water tanks.

another tips to share: for my kitchen i design sink got 2 pipes..one pipe from water tank , the other one direct from main. So when water shortage..i have no problem washing dishes......


This post has been edited by tomjason: Feb 23 2012, 04:17 PM

I thought PVC has no problem with UV or the sun but not heat. Heated it melt like icecream. Infact PVC is the best plastic against UV.

ABS plastic will melt with sulpheric acid but ABS is very strong and unlike PVC heat is not a problem but of course you dont use it for hot water piping. ABS can take load and use underground and withstand weight and pressure. ABS is the pipe you must not expose to sun/VU it will disintegrate.

If you need a strong pressure cold pipe use ABS for pump in the wall for example. PVC class 7 will reduce volume flow due to its very thick layer. You dont use stainless steel or copper pipe for cold pipe it is very expensive, not only the pipe the joints as well many times over the price of PVC and ABS.

For meter main going underground to house use poly as it is flexible you can bend and turn around it and there is no joint. For underground never have any joints there. It should be one long pipe from meter to the other end surface up. You will never have problem leaking underground. From there you either use PVC or ABS for internal distribution. If you use PVC or ABS for underground you got to connect and when there are joints there are future troble. Same goes for S steel and copper not only it is expensive you cannot have long pipe but need to join. Joining is always no no no for areas you cannot access.

Use stainless steel joints at the end pipe (example) from wall outlets to connect to your taps, toilets, basin, etc. Becasue these "heads"at one time or other you need to replace the taps and to unscrew or rescrew on PVC and ASB you could use too much force and break the thread.

Copper is easy to install and connect and to disconnect and yet cheaper than stainless steel for hot water supply. But never step on it or bend it walking over. It shouild be on roof top or wall.

from experience and discussion with plumber sifu..PVC in long run that exposed to sunlight sometime it degrade and sometime you see the color a bit 'turun'/discolor..but with class 6&7 no problem...

for me...after what i had experience and discussion with plumber sifu...will never never use ABS for water pipe....

as long as u put under ground whether is its PVC or poly..there is a possibility to 'pecah' or leak..especially if accidentally dig and break the pipe..

i also used stainless steel connector to connect to 'kepala' pipe..no rust..

This post has been edited by tomjason: Feb 23 2012, 04:42 PM

Everything has its uses.

Underground you tanam at least 2 feet underground.

1. PVC cheap if have to exposed to sun cheapest and msot reliable is PVC. No problem one.
2. ABS cheap for pressure potable WATER pipe inside wall
3. Stainless steel for hot and weighted areas that some weight on top or run over.
4. Copper cheap and flexible easy fix hot water pipe.
5. Poly long distance uses easy to lay.

If you dig and it pecah you have to use heavy mechinary to do that. And if ;you can pecah it mean it is accessible so no problem fixing it.

Most plumbers dont go to school learning thru experience and hearsay of peers.

House no need class 7 lar, pvc class e = pn15; can stand 15 bar. household with pressure booster pump normally 40psi=3bar only