I must say, I like the screen of iPhone better, resolution, I mean but its too heavy for my liking and a bit too small and finally iPhone is for Sissy..just cannot tahan big guys typing away on that sissy phone....but have to say, small screen as it is, its touchscreen keypress sensitivity and accuracy are next to none. Cursing like shit when trying to type in S2 and finally used SWYPE keyboard instead, mispress will still comes out correctly (auto adjust).

A few of my cousins got Galaxy Note, yeah, its better for reading and surfing but look like an ass putting putting a notebook on his ears..unless he/she is a big size "ang mor", then it still can get away with it.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Feb 9 2012, 04:29 PM

FD1 very easy to tapau....I'm driving one as well. Lack of power at low end, almost similar to PE but much bigger roomspace....but handling, IMO, still lose out to PE.

I like Chiffon Green better but maintenance wins out, so I go for the most common color or used to be most common, silver. No wash car for 3 weeks liao...

Red, bu nai kan....after a while get tired...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Feb 9 2012, 04:58 PM

Handbrake got level 1, level 2 meh. Anyway, its normal, car will move even you only pull handbrake slightly. If pulling up hard, still can move, then only consider worn liao.

Err....I always press the unlock button and pull hard, no sound. Just a habit.

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Added on February 9, 2012, 8:14 pmI never want to sit in your car....sure got lots of white stain on the seats....

This post has been edited by Cavino: Feb 9 2012, 08:14 PM

My City buddies that installed LCP (same size as stock) mentioned 3 cons...faster RPM drop, reduced engine braking, losing top speed.

The first 2 (RPM fast drop and engine braking) is a deal breaker for me. RPM fast drop for me, negate faster RPM rise benefit coz I cruise and glide a lot. Engine braking reduction is a no no for me. I guess I'll keep my hands off any engine mod for now.

Losing top speed is not a prob for me as well, barely run more than 130km/h.

RPM fast drop actually affect everyday driving as well such as when we release the accelerator pedal and glide forward to slow down. Faster rpm drop means it will be a shorter glide. In a start stop traffic, LCP lower end torque (faster rpm rise) helps but it will also be negated by the faster rpm drop coz it cuts our gliding forward time (no accelerator press). Of course for pedal happy guys, accelerate and press brake to stop harder, repeat, RPM drop will not matter. For FC conscious guys like me, rarely hard brake, just glide forward and slow to a stop, it does affect.

My City with CVT drive actually drop its RPM quite slowly (due to CVT mah), thus it allows maximum gliding time (no accelerator press) while car moving forward to a slow stop. This save FC. After driving City for 5 years, sort of brought this technique to PE as well, tho PE rpm drop quite fast comparitively.

Engine braking of course still require actual braking especially for downhill. Engine braking only supplements our braking power that helps in pulling back the engine to help increase braking power. I also don't know how LCP changes will affect this (thats why I asked abt it) but it was based on comments by fellow City members that have experienced this with Myth LCP.

I'm totally noob in engine mod except for a couple of very minor mod that I've personally used. ie VS, grounding, PC cable.

Does that means the Myth LCP that is actually smaller than stock is consider undersized?

If you want a balance of protection and performance, use semi 10w40. I do not recommend 10w50, too thick. Its wrong perception to say thicker lube equal best protection, it does not. W40 offer the best balance. Damn cialat if you actually use mineral w50. That is actually the worst lube range you get for Pe cuz its too heavy increasing fc while the protection is not any better than the lighter w40 lube. A good lube does not matter if its mineral or semi but mach 5 is an old lube, all pe using at semi nowadays.

I would recommend servicing your car at 5k, not 6k as suggested by others. Those are looking at cost saving without looking at engine protection. 1k servicing will drain away most of the metals shaving. There will still be lots of metal particle residue left. Thats where the 5k servicing at 4k mileage will drain out. The shorter the interval, the better, so do not wait till 6k.

Change outside but that is going to cost you since semi cost any rm80 and above.

People here has been complaining about helix ultra and yet you go use this lube some more kah!

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Added on February 12, 2012, 12:12 pmCheap. If u want magnatec and its convenient to pickup from shelby without too much petrol cost, go for it. There is a lot of fake lube out there but shelby ones are original, he using himself.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Feb 12 2012, 12:12 PM

I guess you never read what I have suggest not to use fs for up to 10k. Not worththe cost saving on long term engine protection. Gonna cost you more in the end either in performance and our wallet. Unless you are using specifically mentioned long life fs. At least not in our categorized severe driving conditions.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Feb 12 2012, 12:19 PM

[quote=dares,Feb 12 2012, 04:46 PM]
synthetic oil breaks down less easily, and lasts longer in high operating temperature. Which is why people say full-syn oil can be used for longer oil change intervals.

Semi-syn oil is a blend between mineral oils and synthetic oil.

[/]

Actually most of our fs also a blend of mineral and syn. Fs used highly refined mineral instead of the standard grade that semi and mineral uses. True fs like the one zen uses, amsoil uses either pao or ether.

Unfortunately most ppl look at extended interval from what you mentioned but totally forgot about the most critical parts of lube, the addictives wearing out. Unless the lube specifically mentioned long life meaning it is designed for extended service interval, most lube addictive can last 5k only when it started degrading.
You can still use when it started degrading, thats why some go for even further to 10k but with degraded additives, you can bet performance is not optimum and must importantly the lube can no longer guarantee its effective protection and function anymore. It is always better to change a lube BEFORE damage is done rather than after.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Feb 12 2012, 05:43 PM

That why I have also mentioned whether true fs is really suitable for our car. For high performance car requiring really high temp requirement, etc, it might make sense to use true fs but most of our engines that is designed for every day econ drive, true fs offer no added advantage. As matter of fact it might not be suitable at all. Our highly refined mineral based fs might be more suitable for our car range be it proton, honda and toyota.

When last time zen mentioned he gonna change to amsoil. I also mentioned don't know suitable or not. So waiting for his feedback.

There are mixed reactions when using true fs for honda city, etc. So its not confirm but heard some sifu who knows about lube mentioned the conflicting report on usage of true for most of our locally available cars. Normal fs has no such issues.

For stock, I also still using Petronas Syn 800 10W40. Ok lah but using it becoz I'm at 13K mileage. 20K mileage got free lube change with same Syn 800, so will continue using it until 25K mileage then only change different lube.

However if you're not binded into maintaining with Syn 800, there are quite some lubes outside that are supposedly better, magnatec was vouched by most member here. Caltex havoline also some say good also. Just don't get Shell, most have negative comments on those lubes with PE engine.

Cracking will be better, can change straight away ASSUMING his insurance covers windscreen. If not eat himself liao but then his mother can definitely afford it (not an insult, just a fact).

Those fap a lot also can have premature ejaluation.....after eject, fap somemore....

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Added on February 13, 2012, 3:31 pmbtw Anyone has experience with Havoline semi or not, don't know if its good vs magnatec, etc.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Feb 13 2012, 03:33 PM

Although its going to be abt 10k service more before I switch, hati itchy to try out Havoline semi liao. I have bad experience with Idemitsu semi W40 for one of my City, so not going to consider Idemitsu semi for PE although I can strongly vouch for Idemitsu FS. Still don't trust magnatec much coz some say lube still golden at 6-7K.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Feb 13 2012, 03:53 PM

Now I drive pe, wife drive city, civic family drive at weekend and mom driving another city.

Someone else mentioned lube still golden after over 5k. Not zen, I think. Can't remember who, but a couple of posts.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Feb 13 2012, 06:53 PM