Of course, you have to change rim, then have to pay more for tyres, a lot more, and then you have to pay more for FC and then you PE jadi kura kura due to extra weight of bigger size tyres...

Note that if you change to 55 height, you car will be slightly bumpier than original. And altho 195/55/R15 are the most commonly available tyre sizes, PE should not change to that size due to diameter differences.

Lots of his money goes into investment, this guy knows how to earn money.....accountant to be mah...(I think).

Michelin Primacy LC has 195/60/R15 size, so is Falken ZE-912.

Same size I agree tho choice is greatly limited but then Proton did tune the car to this tyre specs, balanced comfort vs handling. If you're using NCT5, personally (altho other might disagree), its a good tyre for everyday non-reving drive. Tahan lasak but once it gets to 60% or less, performance degrades really really quick. Noise increase even more. NCT5 nowadays is not that cheap considering its performance.


Other tyres you can consider for this size courtesy of price list from users at autoworld forum
Bridgestone AR-10 - RM240 Hin Leong (Dec 11)
Continental CC5 - RM210 Hin Leong (Dec 11)
Michelin Primacy LC - RM295 JS Tyre, Glenmarie Shah Alam (Apr 11)
Michelin XM2 - RM270 Ban Hooi (Dec 11)
Michelin XM2 - RM250 Hin Leong (Dec 11)
Yokohama A-Drive - RM210 Yokohama Shop Pandan Indah (Sep 11)
Yokohama C-Drive 2 - RM240 Yokohama Shop Pandan Indah (Sep 11)
Yokohama C Drive 2 - RM 210 Setia Alam (V+B+A) (Sep 11)

Haha....if its for 4 tyres, that means each tyre RM50 only...you go find me one of this tyre at this price, those recon also more expensive...

Never did like Falken 912.

Anyway, this is what i copied from a car site.

If you increase or decrease your tire size over 3% of stock size (in outsize rolling diameter) it will affect your ABS braking system and VDC. Simply put, your car will sense the back wheels are rotating too quickly for example and the ECU will think you are spinning your tires/losing traction which will possibly cause your car to brake or cut off the throttle. In another words, its mostly likely not mechanical brake failure but risk of ECU (computers) detection failure. Quite a few car sites mentioned that on the computers (ECU). Not sure tho coz no tyre experts but VR2Turbo tyre sifu in Autoworld follows this limit as well.

Zen,

If Vincent got killed from following your braking advice, his spirit is going to haunt you forever. Imagine everytime you're "pumping" your CKT, a voice from your back keep whispering, "bear bear, bear bear".

Same here. Although I no fear PE box spoil this way, not going to be ultra expensive like the City's CVT gearbox. If you keep your pedal on "D" during idle a long, you might just slip at times and car push forward, a bit dangerous.

As for braking and slowing down, to a stop, this ah pek always practice the safe driving way, that is keeping gear on "D" until complete stop, then shift to "N" if idle long time. Why that rather than the fc saving "N" during slow down, one word, emergency. You never know what will happen during while your car still moving, a car might just swerve in your back or even front, you need the "D" drive to accelerate accordingly for emergency like that.

For PE, I don't know coz engine braking don't know exist or not but for other makes, engine braking is still there when you're at "D", it helps during braking as well as emergency situation. "N" free for all coasting is great for fc (I used to do that but as I have a family now, nah, safety first) but as mentioned above, not so great for safety reason.