Haha, most of us here just normal petty consumer with budget minded so RE drives is expensive unless data critical mission.
For the 1TB/platter on RE drives, perhaps they have yet to find a reliable solution to store data on a higher density platter? I know technology is everything but does higher density platter also require much sensitive control on the read/write arm? IMHO.

Is your old hard disk an green (eco-green) hard disk? Most modern hard disk with eco-green features has the power management features that enable them to spin down after sometimes (can be adjust at Windows Power Options as well) to spin down after an amount of idle time (ex. 10 minutes).
IMO the normal Green series is no different than AV-GP (only RM30~40 different), possible the most obvious different is the 3-year warranty of the AV-GP series, slight plus if you needs to keep them in the long run. Some said it's designed for DVR and has no CRC checks, some said otherwise but I have yet find them in this market (Kuching, Sarawak) so I can't really gives much suggestion, no retail selling them here...

I bought WD Green 3TB just around June for RM499 (Kuching, Sarawak).
Price is started to drop, just a matter of time.

Please take just few seconds more, scroll up and read posts by jchue73.

Did you send printout of receipt for the RMA? This is will ease their procedure and will send you back within 1 day of process. You need to log RMA report in Seagate warranty website in order to make a claim.
If you send Samsung drive for RMA, they will send you back with Samsung label + Seagate model number printed, basically Seagate is now using Samsung technology, so they're the same thing.

Oh, if that's the case then just let the shop handle everything, I thought you send for RMA on your own.

I'll probably skip this due to the warranty, too short IMO, only 1-year, and most of them broke down right after 1-year+.
Maybe the SV35 series better choice, 3-year, but need to pay more than WDC offering.

Have a look at this link: http://support.wdc.com/warranty/index_end.asp?lang=en
Follow the steps to get your RMA done, if it still has warranty.
WDC has very tedious steps to follow.

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Added on October 11, 2012, 10:01 amAccording to Compu-Zone's lastest price list, Seagate CCTV (SV35??) 2TB price is equal to WDC 3TB CCTV (AV-GP??).
WDC is a better buy in this case

This post has been edited by wildwestgoh: Oct 11 2012, 10:01 AM

Yes, the AV-GP carries 3-year warranty.

I don't think that's reliability that everyone is recommending, it's the warranty, 5-year is great if you want to keep it for longer time.
But WD Black is quite hot compared to other series and good cooling is required to properly cool it off, otherwise WD Black is good for its performance as well.

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Added on November 9, 2012, 8:05 amUm, no one replying?
For laptop, I would recommend SSD for much reliability (check SSD thread).
For HDD, there's no "reliable" in them, just take the most value and 7200rpm if you want some good response speed.

This post has been edited by wildwestgoh: Nov 9 2012, 08:05 AM

The only pro is the 5-year, performance wise still the Seagate latest tech that acquired from Samsung but the price for the warranty is way too ridiculous.
As for the price, definitely worth it if you care about the warranty.
And temperature, yes, very high compare to other series, can reach 38C while other Green HDD barely touching 32C. If you put many HDDs inside a cage, the temperature will rise higher, good cooling is required.

I don't think there's any relation to HDD but you can use tools below to help you. (Google them)
HDDScan (Detect almost every interface, USB supported)
Speedfan (Almost all temperatures, SMART)

Use them to check the SMART attributes, look for keyword "sectors count", if there's some numbers in the RAW then you might need to watch out.
If you don't know, just paste your screen shot here and some guru may be able to help you identify the issue.

From the SMART attributes, you should keep a look out for the CRC errors, it has the exclamation mark there so that's the attribute that you should look out for.
I see that it has 1 CRC error, means either the controller, interface (cable, plug, socket) having issue, either way if you didn't see this increase over time then it might just be coincident so not much to worry about your HDD.
Perhaps you can open another thread at Technical Support or Q&A, list your HiJackThis result and see if any guru can help you identify the cause of your Diablo FPS issue.
HiJackThis can be downloaded here... www.filehippo.com/download_hijackthis/
Slower FPS in gaming does not necessary to be in 1 area, it could be anything.

Take 750GB divide by 30MB/s (USB2 speed), you get around 7 hours.
If you have USB3 then it should be faster, usually should be around half the time needed.

Pagefile will always be there, it'll keep itself to minimum if the RAM is sufficient, or you can set the pagefile size to your liking and it's not recommended to turn it off unless you know what you're doing.
If you have plenty of RAM then you can set to the minimum pagefile size, i.e. 512MB maximum, this should help keep most of the data at RAM.
This should reduce the swapping between HDD and RAM so the overall performance is increase, this is when you have sufficient RAM, but if RAM is small, and Windows hit the maximum RAM limit, it may just crash.

Which area is covered under the free pick up?
I don't think they cover East Malaysia as well?

1) It's sign of HDD failing, if the HEX numbers is low (< 10) then there should be chance to re-use the HDD again. But the chances of it failing again (bad sectors) is high.

2) I would immediately backup any important data, leave the programs and OS aside as they might not be salvage-able through cloning (sectors read error) and even if you do, you'll end up with corrupted system files instead.
As for your question, yes you can use the HDD as external as long as you have the external USB-SATA device.

If the system files is already unreadable (bad sectors), cloning will only copy the files as "unreadable" so it'll appear as corrupted. I have encountered this myself so I know from my experience, but if you're lucky then you may find the system will restore the system file(s) that's(re) corrupted and you don't need to re-install the whole OS. Best is quickly copy all the important data files, they worth more than your OS or programs files which can be re-installed easily.
USB-SATA is one that make internal for external use and yes it's for you to connect your SATA internal HDD to USB port.

It won't worth all your trouble and money to get it fix, it's much expensive than you getting a new hard disk that has warranty.
Even manufacturer won't fix it if you send in after the warranty period, and they'll charge you for sending it back to you again.

If Seagate Barracuda has 2-year warranty then Seagate, otherwise WDC.

Try Google for "low level format" tool to deep format the drive to rectify the pending sectors.

Note: Backup your Data first before doing so, this method is irreversible, nor can you recover data in anyway.

Free version of the tool only allows you to format at 50MB/s so if your hard drive is big then you might need to let it runs overnight or something like that.
After your runs it, check the SMART again to verify if there's any "Reallocated Sector Count", if there's none then your drive is fine as it's, but be warn that it might occur again. And if there's still "Pending Sector Count", possible your drive is also having issue, time to send for RMA or if it's already out then plan for a new one, don't try to use it any longer as it might causes lost of data without your realizing it.

Good luck