I've seen only pricing for smaller capacities. I don't know if a 240GB edition exists.

I think it's using asynchronous NAND, slower but should use less power. But it is still plenty fast.

*looks at signature*

But you already have one.

Mine is work related. Projects, data, a VirtualBox Ubuntu server (I'm a novice), and XP Mode for WinXP and IE6, all encrypted on a laptop.

This post has been edited by everling: Apr 7 2012, 12:32 PM

If you have plenty of space left to fill in your SSD, you could put in other stuff like your downloads, songs and other miscellaneous things. Use up those p/e cycles. It is unlikely that you'll exhaust your p/e cycles in five years and by then there will be more affordable and even larger capacity SSDs.

On my desktop's SSD (the one without all the work stuff) I put my torrents and random downloads on it. And then move them to my HDDs whenever they're completed or I need more space on the SSD.

If we measure in terms of performance per ringgit, you probably cannot justify the upgrade to a SATA 6.0 Gbps motherboard.

Marvell controller, Indilinx firmware.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/5741/ocz-con...l-based-silicon

This post has been edited by everling: Apr 21 2012, 12:10 PM

Probably because yours has twice the number of chips, and thus twice the channels or bandwidth. Although it doesn't translate to twice the performance for a variety of reasons, it is enough to perform a little better.

This post has been edited by everling: Apr 23 2012, 01:01 AM

Could it be that the sound were your HDDs waking up from sleep? Because there is a power saving option, if enabled, that will turn off your HDDs if you do not use them in a long while.

Strange, the High Performance profile's HDD option is set to turn off after 20 minutes of idle, at least in my default settings.

To manually configure the option on Windows 7, hit the winkey, type "Power Options", open the "Power Options", click "Change plan settings" on your current profile, click "Change advanced power settings", "Hard disk", "Turn off hard disk after", change the current number to 0 (zero). This means Windows 7 will never turn off your hard disks.

I don't know how the Green or Eco drives will behave. They might choose to ignore the Windows power settings. I don't know.

This post has been edited by everling: Apr 24 2012, 09:41 AM

You could try looking for OEM editions. You'd sacrifice your warranty period, but they might possibly get that low a price.

I wish that a 330 240GB existed.

It's safe.

Although, if your HDDs were turned off by your OS due to idleness and you accidentally hit/shake your rig, you don't have to worry about your HDDs getting damaged. But that is something not to depend on.

I leave that option on because I have HDDs that I rarely access. Waiting for your HDDs to wake up can be annoying, but I feel less annoyed because I know why they are taking a while to respond.

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Added on April 25, 2012, 9:58 amDid you cloned your OS or fresh installed it? Cloning from a HDD can cause problems.

This post has been edited by everling: Apr 25 2012, 09:58 AM

Align 1024 is good enough.

1. You may do that. But buying local may be more convenient and timely. And sometimes even cheaper. What SSD are you looking at and its price on Amazon?
   
2. Drive-only probably means just the drive. You might get some screws, but not a 3.5" bay adaptor, cloning tool or other stuff. I don't know about the Reseller Kit.
   
3. Reliable: Intel, Samsung, Crucial's M4 are reliable. SandForce-based SSDs have an old reputation for poor reliability, but their current reputation is uncertain.
   
   Capacity: Having a storage capacity of about 120GB should be good for your OS, applications and games. If you intend to put it in your laptop, a larger SSD might be better; especially if you are also using it for work.
   
   Cost: If you have several SSD choices that meets the first two criteria, you should consider the cheaper option. There is not much value in buying the fastest SSD or longer lived SSD. All SSDs are very fast. All SSDs are likely to last at least three years (assuming no manufacturing defect) and likely for many more years, and buying a replacement SSD then will be rather cheap.

If you can use the extra capacity, how about Intel's older 320 SSD 160GB SATA 3.0Gbps? It's currently RM620 at Cycom, only a little more expensive than the 520's 120GB and it does give you an extra ~40 GB to play with.

As for compatibility issues, you probably won't have a problem. SSDs are designed to be drop-in replacements for HDDs.

Am I imagining things or are Intel SSD prices seems to be dropping quite rapidly lately?

At least there is a possible stopping point, in about two or three more generations/years. They might have difficulties in breaching the sub-10nm range. If they get stuck there, prices may stagnant at around $0.16/GB (12nm) or $0.08/GB (8nm). Which is like RM480 or RM240 for a 1TB SSD.

There may also be a similar point of stagnancy in CPU, GPU and APU technologies, unless alternative technologies can take over to continue the drive of performance. You probably can't develop durable wires and transistors that are smaller than single atoms, which is a problem that you start hitting at at sub-10nm.

Windows will not change or disturb the alignment if you do not repartition the first partition. This is why you can align it (at least create the aligned first partition) in another computer and then install Windows on it. You only need to align the first partition of a HDD/SSD. All subsequent partitions will follow the first partition.

Simply freezing doesn't mean much at all. There are many possible causes of freezing, some hardware and some software. You'll need to determine the cause of the freezing.

That is because ATTO benchmarks with easily compressible data, which is an advantage for SandForce-based SSDs, because they compress the data before writing to the NANDs.

ATTO is useful in determining if your SSD meets the manufacturer specs. But for normal performance, you want to use a benchmark that uses incompressible data, because most data are incompressible - applications, games, songs, videos are typically incompressible.

You can limit the size of your pagefile to whatever you want through "Custom size" in your "Virtual Memory" options. You can even disable the use of pagefiles if you like. This is safe for most users with 8GB or more of RAM as it is still rather rare to encounter a situation where you need more than 8GB of RAM. If you prefer to be on the safer side, you can simply set your page file to 1GB and Windows will force expand it when it needs to do so.

Another way to save SSD space is to disable hibernation. The hibernation file is as big as your RAM capacity. 8GB of RAM = 8GB of hibernation file.

Personally I wouldn't bother unless I was forced to do so. Most of our junk would take at most only a few gigabytes.

The 330 is a SandForce-based SSD. For any SandForce-based SSD, please test with ATTO. It should be close to the manufacturer specified performance. If it was not, please check if you are using SATA 3.0 Gbps or SATA 6.0 Gbps.

This kind of performance optimisation should really be done only if you have spare cash to burn or if you have an exceptional reason to do so. Compared to the feeling of owning your first SSD, this kind of upgrade will disappoint because you won't feel your computer getting twice as fast. It is really not worth staying on the brink of bankruptcy for.

How did you installed your Windows? A clean install or cloned from an existing Windows installation on a HDD?

That is a performance optimisation tip. You are never required to do optimisation tips, you choose to do them or not.

For a 64GB SSD, as a system drive and 5 Mbps BT 24 hours for 365 days a year for 5 years, you just might reduce its lifespan to only 10 years. Is that good enough for you?