PH : 6-7
GH : 5-6
water temp : 28-29C
substrate : ADA new amazonia + white river sand on the left

PH: 6.4 - 7.6
KH: 0 - 10
GH: 4 - 14
TDS: 80 - 200
Water temp: 18 - 23

PH: 6.4 - 7.6
KH: 0 - 10
GH: 4 - 14
TDS: 80 - 200
Water temp: 18 - 23

PH: 6.2 - 6.8
KH: 2 - 5
GH: 4 - 8
TDS: 100 - 200
Water temp: 20 - 25

PH: 6.2 - 6.8
KH: 2 - 5
GH: 4 - 8
TDS: 100 - 200
Water temp: 20 - 25

PH: 6.4 - 7.6
KH: 0 - 10
GH: 4 - 14
TDS: 80 - 200
Water temp: 18 - 23

Shrimp bought at the store or sent via (express) courier service need to be acclimated slowly and carefully to their new environment. The transport is stressful to them even if they are well packed in a styrofoam box and breathing bags.


So why is drip acclimation such an important step after you purchase fish/shrimp?
Generally speaking, one should always use the drip method to acclimate new invertebrates (and fish, for that matter). The drip method takes at least 1.5 hours, but best for 3 hours or longer depending on how much the original water parameters differ from your local (or tank) water parameters.

Drip acclimating gives your fish or shrimp the time they need to adjust the balance of salts, minerals, and the like in their bodies with the salts and minerals present in the water in their new homes. If the salt content in their bodies is high (origin is hard water) and they are moving into soft water where TDS is low, just dumping the fish/shrimp in may cause them irreparable harm, stressing their bodies and making them susceptible to disease. Their bodies will not be able to adjust quickly enough (via the natural process of osmosis) and lead to shock. This is less likely to be as a result of pH shock, as we discussed previously, but more like from the inability to adjust to the new TDS level. Osmotic pressure changes are much more severe for aquatic organisms.

By doing a slow drip acclimation, you change the TDS content of the water gradually and allows the fish/shrimp to slowly adapt. The water flow also need not be constant. It may be a good idea to even stop the flow of water altogether and let the animals sit for awhile and then restart the drip. The technique can be adjusted as you see fit.

The diagnosis of shrimp diseases is a very complex area and it is often not possible to distinguish at first sight which or if any disease is present. In many cases, livestock are already affected when an outbreak becomes visible. It may start with one dead shrimp each day, and while water parameters may seem suitable, it can lead to molting problems and further fatalities. If shrimp turn white inside the body and their usual coloration fades, this only shows there is a problem in the circulation and a lack of oxygen in the body. Any fungal or bacterial infection in the body or harming of the gills can cause this. Most of these infections are secondary, meaning the actual cause is environmental, reducing the resistance of the shrimp. Some affected shrimp even lose antenna and other extremities (e.g. legs, eyes). In a later phase, shrimp are inactive and may ‘stagger’ through the water. These shrimp are more likely to die sooner rather than later. Some bacteria populations also erode the exoskeleton and shell: rusty, brown or black spots and holes are the visible signs of this. Also the gills can sometimes be damaged by bacterial pathogens.

-The most important thing to do is: to improve water quality which in turn reduces harmful bacteria.
-Clean the tank and gravel from mud and leftovers regularly.
-Check your filtration set up and clean pipes and filter if it is very dirty or running slow.
-Use filter booster bacteria like Mosura Bacter 9 to raise beneficial bacteria (probiotics) in your tank.
-Inject oxygen with a simple air stone or similar.
-Do change the water daily, with a minimum of 80% (not less!) for at least two weeks. This lowers the quantity of bacteria. If you change less than 80% of the water, bacteria will bloom again. It is important that the incoming fresh water has the same water parameters as your tank. Changes in parameters e.g. pH or GH will stress -your shrimp even more.
-Feed less in both frequency and amount and remove ill or dead shrimp as soon as possible.
-Add Indian Almond Leaves ('Ketapang Leaves') to support/promote healing.
-Reduce stress for your shrimp.

Clindamycin
esHa Exit
JBL Furanol (2)
Seachem Paraguard
Sera Bactopur
Sera Omnipur S

Hydras are tiny animals, which are closely related to jellyfish. Green Hydras live in fresh water, such as streams, rivers, lakes, and ponds. They are very common.

A Green Hydra can grow up to 30 millimeters long, but usually they are less than 15 mm. Hydras are found in shallow water, where they attach themselves to plants, stones, twigs, or other objects. Unlike their jellyfish cousins, they don't like to float around.
rey of Green Hydras includes aquatic insects, crustaceans (such as water fleas and scuds), flatworms, aquatic worms, fish fry, and other small creatures in the water. They also eat a certain type of algae, called Chlorella, which is what makes hydras green. Chlorella stays alive inside the hydra. Since algae makes its own food. The hydra lets the Chlorella make food for it.

If a hydra needs to move (perhaps it's not getting enough food), it can detach itself and move like an inchworm. They are notoriously well known to kill shrimplets and fish fries in breeding tanks.

Planarias are free-living, primarily carnivorous flatworms-with a three-branched digestive cavity and comes in a varieties of colors (White, Rusty Pink and brown). Planarias may eat other living, as well as dead, invertebrates, detritus or decaying organic matter. That is why sometimes even if you stopped feeding for a few days, the planarias do not died from hunger and may even attack freshly moulted shrimps and shrimplets when there is a lack of food. Planaria usually slides on the gravel and tank walls in search of food and or bury themselves in the gravel to hide away from the light.

is orange considered neocaridina shrimp ?

sifus one question here,cherry shrimp and sakura red shrimp are they same ?
can i mix it ?