Hi guys, wanna check if any of you VDO guys have this problem before :

http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=2180416&st=

Hey guys, wanna ask about an annoying problem with my wiSE vdo 2005..every time run on highway above 3000 rpm the check engine light will come on..so far ive been to two proton center with their MUT and my usual workshop and done the following over a period of 6months :

1) clean TB (diy) usually do every 2 oil change
2) replace O2 sensor
3) done mut engine diagnostic, no error code (wtf?) so they reset it to factory setting
4) my usual mech did normal inspection check for fluid leaks, check vacuum leak (test drive and monitor vacuum meter) ,check whatever wiring he knows etc...doesnt seem like anyone knows the problem..and in 6 months i have nothing unusual like no increase in FC,no breakdown,no smoke, no rough idle..

any ideas?

forgot to mention, my service is always on time, semi-syn engine oil every 5k,clean air filter, change oil filter
every 2 oil change clean TB, replace spark plug

no major changes or modifications done before problem started

daym..2 days i dont drive manual ill start having withdrawal symptoms already..

I dont think ECU.. it should be one of the sensor ko..i suspect it was the O2 sensor cuz after 3000 rpm, vdo will go into open loop..screwed up part is its not consistant..few days rempit no prob..then suddenly will appear..go mech,pulg in the pdt2000 no error code..damn headache

lol..damn a lot need to change..all the sensor,full wiring,ecu,TB..VDO is actually a pretty decent ecu..good FC and self learning capabilities

Once pass 3k..the only thing that came to mind was the O2 sensor cuz that cuts off at 3k

Speed sensor? what does it look like?what do i need to look for and diy? also how much? so far your solution seems the most promising..

is it that thing that looks like a fuse, near the star ground point?


This post has been edited by ryan_hustler: Jan 14 2012, 11:24 PM

Found it..sure its a reed switch? Reed switches are usually magnetic in nature,this fella got no shielding at all..
yup, i think youre right. VSS used to determine open loop,closed loop operation which is why mine shows up at 3k rpm, which is the switch point from closed to open loop.

Hope your right, cuz if you are, youre the only person who managed to solve my problem compared to my sifu mechanic, few proton guys with their pdt's and my usual kaki kereta mamak shop gang.


Attached image(s)

bought the sensor for RM25 and diy installed it in the afternoon..havnt "test power" yet

didnt work dude

fast signal usually because one of the signal bulbs burnt out. Put on your hazard light and do a quick check around the car to see if all the signal are blinking.

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Added on January 28, 2012, 6:53 amScared join monster TT..

This post has been edited by ryan_hustler: Jan 28 2012, 06:53 AM

Should be ok..when cold start or your first start of the day, rpm will be higher because of autochoke..

the reason the signal blink faster when one bulb burnt is because the overall resistance of the circuit seen by the relay is less, so will on/off/on/off faster.. the longer you prolong this, the other bulbs or the relay will KO next.

problem you are facing is radiator fan not working..

ouch..10 bucks for fuse? ive seen few ppl fitted the evo2,3 fan on the outside of the radiator, claim better cooling..what you guys think?

I feel cable worse..harder to press

my slave cylinder bocor after work once..i use duct tape to wrap it up nicely and top up with new motorbike dot4..managed to make it back and service.

If cable putus, cant do any DIY at the roadside

ex BOT..retired d

now running on super stock 4g15

yup, on my dinosaur 4g15

Power window normally got 2 things go wrong. Either the motor jam/farked or the cable mechanism farked..have to open the door panel and check to be sure
Workshop price im not sure as i change myself, the motor last time was RM40++ and the cable mechanism thing is RM28 For WiSE and RM20 for normal wira..

not really because of the block, but the piston crown is dome shaped for high compression..normally for turbo prefer lower compression..

Must lower the compression..Need to change the pistons to lower compression..I know a few 4g13 bot..but mostly bore to 4g15

mine as well..the rubber foam thing all reput in my car already..removed the dashboard, vacuum everything out and fill the gaps with the superlon..now no sound already

I think I bought at brothers..been some time already

Wow distributor so expensive? If im not mistaken normally when dist KO, its just the dist cap that needs replacement because the contact brushes work out/ bakar etc..thats relatively cheaper brand new right? Not very sure on this though..