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 PROTON SAGA BLM, FL, FLX CLUB V16, Saga FLX SE 1.6 -> PRESSURE YOUR PEERS

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xandras
post Oct 29 2011, 09:38 AM

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BOOM!! Wa sudah datangggg.... brows.gif

QUOTE(jflcorp @ Oct 29 2011, 09:17 AM)
I talk rubbish?! Whatever! Now Proton already delay Cvt delivery for 1 month due to recall of the Cvt cooling system....

many reported jerking and stalling of cvt gb.....

-Ketchup sos mana? Siapa report? I also interested to read hmm.gif

Go ahead and bluff yourself. I don't give a rat's arse.....

-Then why are u so angry bout it? hmm.gif

*
This post has been edited by xandras: Oct 29 2011, 09:41 AM
xandras
post Oct 30 2011, 12:15 AM

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QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Oct 30 2011, 12:08 AM)
hahahahaha..its alright

he said campro can take in all 4L worr

rclxub.gif
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Usually that's what Proton mechanics will tell u. In some way it is actually bad for the engine and the overall performance of the car.

QUOTE(sg999 @ Oct 30 2011, 12:11 AM)
haha
ya i saw that in tesco too.
icon_rolleyes.gif hope got bigbig discount when i purchase rclxms.gif
VS+GC+denso IT20+sirodum air filterl=PERFECT MATCH? drool.gif
*
Speaking from experience, some of the members in Persona club (including me) really don't feel any difference with the presence of VS, in terms of performance. GC yes, u will feel that ur gearshifts are smoother. But that's about it.

Why do I feel like us Persona members are not so welcomed here? hmm.gif
xandras
post Oct 30 2011, 12:20 AM

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QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Oct 30 2011, 12:18 AM)
saga ppl are weird rclxub.gif
I fully understand.....
*
Why saga ppl weird? hmm.gif

V26 coming next.. whistling.gif
xandras
post Oct 30 2011, 12:22 AM

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QUOTE(sg999 @ Oct 30 2011, 12:20 AM)
the VS ...just depend on what brand u using
mine one got significant effect after using 20hours...when starting sad to say have zero effect...
now during the car idle, when ac kick in the rpm is stable and during driving, i stlll can feel the ac is kick in but the power lost decrease significantly.haha laugh.gif
GC i had no install yet.. planing to install too. thumbup.gif
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Which is why I said 'in terms of performance'. I don't see how it is mechanically possible for a bunch of capacitors to improve ur car's performance. Yes, it may stabilize the voltage and reduce power loss when the air cond compressor kicks in, but that's about it. The difference after installing VS is too minimal to be considered as a 'performance mod'. Hope u understand what I'm trying to say here.


Added on October 30, 2011, 12:28 am
QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Oct 30 2011, 12:22 AM)
i masuk persona tered no prob

u guys masuk but still dead
get what i mean? laugh.gif
*
Well at least it's moving now.. whistling.gif

This post has been edited by xandras: Oct 30 2011, 12:28 AM
xandras
post Oct 30 2011, 12:40 AM

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QUOTE(vccy @ Oct 30 2011, 12:36 AM)
The performance only shown at 1st time you install. after that it has no effect at all. i do enhance the VS. actually i do made a VS myself with 100KuF capacitor(total of 25-30 capacitors). The VS that i built has higher capacitance compare to outside sell one. as u said 1st time install, air-cond kick in the rpm stable and the head lamp is bright. but after some time. it went back to normal. LOL.

But for grounding cable you can see improvement in gear shifting. Outside accessories shop sell de grounding cable like hks 5 points (RM25) or other brand don simply buy. check carefully, some of them sell aluminum wire and all are very thin wire. there are useless. good ground wire are thick and made from pure copper, the cost is around RM 15-20 per meter.

for good grounding cable you can get from this seller. i also get mine from him.

http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...grounding+cable

conclusion= don waste your money in VS.
really too minimal even for 100K uF.
*
The perfect formula for increased performance is still:

Increase airflow + increase fuel.


Added on October 30, 2011, 12:41 am
QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Oct 30 2011, 12:37 AM)
Ya, but the saga owners diam liao

laugh.gif
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hmm.gif If dunno, can ask & learn.. smile.gif

QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Oct 30 2011, 12:38 AM)
you must not drive below 120kph during the first 5 minutes after engine start.
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And u know those SA didn't hantam ur car more than 120kmh during delivery? wink.gif

QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Oct 30 2011, 12:39 AM)
best advice.
*
doh.gif My car 1st day dapat already hantam 170-180.

This post has been edited by xandras: Oct 30 2011, 12:41 AM
xandras
post Oct 30 2011, 12:45 AM

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QUOTE(vccy @ Oct 30 2011, 12:42 AM)
fuel? you mean step more fuel? laugh.gif

now need to alt tab to change to persona thread and saga thread.  laugh.gif
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Well... Literally.. But increasing fuel & fuel pressure can be done by installing a fuel rail & fuel regulator.. Not just stepping harder on the pedal.. smile.gif

QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Oct 30 2011, 12:43 AM)
They dint hantam, thats why owner need to hentam.

Need to balance it out.
*
They sure hantam wan lah..
xandras
post Oct 30 2011, 12:52 AM

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QUOTE(shelby_yong @ Oct 30 2011, 12:47 AM)
i get new car.. sudah hantam 120km/h.. from perak to KL..
no pantang 1 la... direct hantam gao gao.. so if got problem.. claim warranty
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laugh.gif

But when u get ur car what was ur mileage? Do u still remember? hmm.gif Mine was 30+ KMs. Duno where they drive my car to. When I first got my Myvi it was 7KMs on the odo. And that 7 KM came from the distance between the Sales Office and my house (they delivered it to my doorstep).
xandras
post Oct 30 2011, 12:56 AM

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QUOTE(sg999 @ Oct 30 2011, 12:53 AM)
lol i already installed..what a sad case cry.gif
ya
im looking for eric also for gc tongue.gif
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Well.. It's not a bad thing to have in ur car.. Serves as an extra, u'll never know when it might help u.. smile.gif

QUOTE(vccy @ Oct 30 2011, 12:54 AM)
i got my persona at 4 KMs on odo. i go showroom take myself.
*
hmm.gif Then probably the night before delivery the SA drove my car out to go cheong clubber chicks la whistling.gif

laugh.gif Introducing bad elements here...
xandras
post Oct 30 2011, 11:30 AM

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QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Oct 30 2011, 10:25 AM)
You believe my mech said our cars cannot use full synthetic?

because campro quality subpar......
*
U punya mechanic mana belajar?

QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Oct 30 2011, 10:30 AM)
Kolej Universiti bawah pokok kuala sepetang
*
Kuala Sepetang laksa very nice leh unsure.gif
xandras
post Oct 30 2011, 11:48 AM

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QUOTE(vccy @ Oct 30 2011, 10:22 AM)
i plan to use 5w-40 one. mobil 1

don ever use grade 30. the grade 30 oil is too thin. your engine's wear and tear will be high. use grade 40. even proton manual also got mention need to use grade 40 lub.
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Actually, xW-30 weighted engine oil can be used for CamPros, but you will have to follow a very strict service schedule & service your car on time. With xW-30, you shouldn't be exceeding 5k KMs every service, and it is always better to alternate between xW-30 and xW-40 (not using only xW-30 all the time). This is to reduce wear & tear on the internals of the engine, such as pistons, piston rings/valve seals, etc. Some car owners prefer to use xW-30 on their CamPro due to the promising performance, lighter throttle & slightly quieter engine, but they do not know what's happening to their engine when they are using it.
xandras
post Oct 30 2011, 11:58 AM

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QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Oct 30 2011, 11:56 AM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
hmm.gif Reminds me of my wira
xandras
post Oct 30 2011, 12:01 PM

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QUOTE(vccy @ Oct 30 2011, 11:59 AM)
that why i don wan them to use grade 30. to play safe and protect their engine. since some of them not so familiar with the lub.  laugh.gif
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nod.gif

QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Oct 30 2011, 12:00 PM)
pagi pagi sudah start tint.

laugh.gif
*
Sunday mah.. No mod car do wat? whistling.gif

ph34r.gif
xandras
post Oct 30 2011, 12:05 PM

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QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Oct 30 2011, 12:02 PM)
find siham lo whistling.gif
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hmm.gif Y u no go find? XD

QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Oct 30 2011, 12:03 PM)
my place here so sunny~

if i go stick my eyelids, sure i become black chicken edi.
*
Eat kampung chicken before? whistling.gif
xandras
post Oct 30 2011, 12:11 PM

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QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Oct 30 2011, 12:06 PM)
*click* >>>>> shocking.gif
xandras
post Oct 30 2011, 01:19 PM

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QUOTE(rajivshm @ Oct 30 2011, 12:26 PM)
hi.. thanks for ur detailed explanation. in this saga forum, sifus will only reply "according to your budget, got money go for more expensive one" .... my opinion, expensive is not always better!

btw i have been using petronas syntium now since 1st service, recently found one sc nearby (according to persona thread) can bring own oil so i wana try. do u think castrol magnatec and syntium is same or sure got difference? and the rm99 one is ok? some ppl said its seal is broken some say its for european use not suitable for malaysia etc etc.. what u think?
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Aiya.. It's ok ma.. smile.gif U can always come Persona link to ask if u have any doubts.

As for the engine oil price, cheap doesn't necessarily mean it's bad.. Sometimes it's because they keep stock. And the european lube part is true, but applies mostly to supermarkets like Tesco.
xandras
post Oct 30 2011, 02:08 PM

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QUOTE(rajivshm @ Oct 30 2011, 01:25 PM)
haha now that i got the link there, will drop by more often.. smile.gif

btw, the european part is true, so is it still ok to use tesco oil? or buy from spare part shop better?
advice..
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Erm.. What I meant was Castrol Magnatec, etc that they sell at Tesco that are European stock..

QUOTE(kudin @ Oct 30 2011, 01:57 PM)
One thing in common I don't like about myvi and flx is sleeping in driver seat is uncomfortable compared to wira or persona  rclxms.gif  tongue.gif  laugh.gif
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Thanks. I'm flattered laugh.gif
xandras
post Oct 30 2011, 02:55 PM

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QUOTE(vccy @ Oct 30 2011, 02:55 PM)
why? you wan to replace it inside your saga?  laugh.gif

now is our turn on our thread to become slow.  sweat.gif
*
Sunday mah. I also no time to check
xandras
post Oct 30 2011, 06:07 PM

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QUOTE(MR_alien @ Oct 30 2011, 05:57 PM)
for me....cuz when i bought BLM still use RON97
for me...tapping sound very obvious....engine noise very loud
seem to be like the engine really unhappy abt the oil...very angry
thn got 1 time i really go try pump 97 just to see its the oil or not
once i pump 97 and start engine...noise everything is gone...smooth like no business
but now not worthed already..RM1 difference
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Even my Cayman can run on Ron 95. shakehead.gif

I believe Ron 97/95 is up to users' preference. If u wanna be economical, u'll definitely have to go Ron 95. Not much could be said about difference in engine performance; I won't believe it unless it is dyno proven that Ron 97 makes more power than 95.

P.s: talking about campro engines here and the application/difference between 95/97 on performance.

This post has been edited by xandras: Oct 30 2011, 06:09 PM
xandras
post Oct 30 2011, 06:39 PM

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QUOTE(MR_alien @ Oct 30 2011, 06:17 PM)
i didn't say it doesn't run....it runs but pretty bad
two causes of this...1 is RON95 itself...2 is the petrol station
RON95 surely make it not that good for our car already...
the 2nd one is the petrol station....they usually will mix things into their petrol to make it look like more thus make more profit
and at the same time...the performance goes down becuz they added something else
dn't need dyno....just pump the petrol and drive with the same car with the same route...you'll notice it the difference
the noise...once pump and start the engine...step outside and u can hear already....the engine seem to be angry of the new oil...the engine very noisy and many tapping sound

ps: if nt wrong....it applies to lower CC car...higher CC car no problem one
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Have u tried different brands of petrol, then? Go pump Shell 97, then pump Caltex 97. U will definitely see the difference there. The problem is not with the Ron of the petrol itself, but rather the additives that they use in different petrol brands. It is recommended that CamPro engine uses Ron 97, but at the same time it is tuned to run with 95.

We members at PPLYN didnt waste our time & money trying different brands & Ron of petrol for no reason. AFAIK, campro engines run perfectly well on Caltex Ron 97. Arguably the best petrol u can use for ur CamPro. Very smooth, too.

If u think that higher CC cars won't feel the difference, then u're wrong. Cars with higher displacement are affected even more, and the difference is much more significant where knockings & power loss is greater felt. As I said, dyno proving is the only way to make me believe that Ron 97 is better than 95.

I'm not denying that Ron 97 gives smoother & better power delivery than 95, I'm just saying that if there is a performance difference felt in our CamPro engine, then it must be placebo effect. If u feel ur engine is smoother & less noisy while idling & accelerating, then yes, it is because of the additives in the higher priced Ron 97.

I can go further into how compression ratios and such affect the output of an engine using petrol of different octane ratings, but I think it should suffice that I stop here.

This post has been edited by xandras: Oct 30 2011, 06:40 PM
xandras
post Oct 30 2011, 11:10 PM

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QUOTE(MR_alien @ Oct 30 2011, 06:53 PM)
i tried every brand of RON95 available in sabah here
esso, petronas and shell
when i start change to RON95...i start by shell cuz u know their 97 is quiet good
but their 95 sarks like no business...the symptoms are as i mention above
thn i tried petronas...better but FC is very bad
thn i test esso...the best of all...power and FC but still cannot eliminate the engine noise entirely like any RON97
cuz i purposely go pump 97 be4 in the middle...the noise and tapping totally go away
when petronas release their 95 extra....i go pump...good..improved...on par with esso but i still like esso for their power
so 1st = esso > shell > petronas
thn it became esso > petronas > shell....i notice alot here gave up shell already cuz they feel it as well..it's very obvious

and i know the higher CC got won't feel any difference cuz previously i'm driving my dad's 2L car
last time also pump 97 like everyone do...thn petrol price increase...forced to pump 95
but when i sit in the car....between 97 and 95...didn't feel any difference in power and FC...maybe it was just my dad's car maybe...different car with different engine gives different effect
my dad's one is mitsu engine BTW
but 200k+ KM already...maybe thats why...haha

maybe your opinion more pro/true..but my opinion is based on my experience and backed up by members here in FnF
95 really sarks....or most probably malaysia's 95 sarks only...haha
*
I didn't wanna get into the compression ratio discussion cos it is rather lengthy, but you've mentioned out a good point that prompted me to share a little bit on this topic.

2.0 Mitsu engine? By looking at our market in the past 10 years, not many cars came factory fitted with Mitsu's 2.0 petrol engine on the road. Either Proton Perdana, or Mitsubishi Airtrek (correct me if I'm wrong). And if it is indeed the Perdana with 4G63 l4, then the compression ratio is 9.0:1, which is rather low compared to our CamPro's 10:1. The lower the compression ratio is, the lower RON you can pump for the car to still run as usual. If it is the Perdana V6 with 6A12 engine, I'm not at all surprised that it ran without any problem as the compression ratio is the same as our CamPro, which is 10:1. Most CamPro users will tell you that their cars can run on RON 95 without any knocking issues (me being one of them), but a fair share of CamPro-ers also said that their engines are facing it. So probably you're one of the lot. But let me explain further to enlight you on this matter.

To understand what compression ratio is in the first place, imagine a piston in a cylinder while it is at the bottom of its' stroke. The volume of air in the space between the piston and the top end of the cylinder is 900 cubic centimetres, while the volume of air in the combustion chamber on top of the cylinder is 100 cubic centimetres. Total it up, you'll get 1000 cubic centimetres, or 1000 cc. When this piston moves up and reaches the end of the cylinder, the volume of air left in the combustion chamber is 100 cubic centimetres (piston moves up, reducing volume of air left in the cylinder until it reaches the top of the cylinder, and what's left is the air in the combustion chamber, which is 100 cc at all times). As such, the compression ratio is calculated as 1000 (total of 900cc in cylinder + 100cc in combustion chamber) to 100 (the volume in combustion chamber), or 1000:100. Primary school maths, fraction reduction and you'll get 10.0:1.

And then.. I'll have to get into the part how does an engine with high compression ratio works, but I rather get to the point right away as to why there is knocking in an engine when you use low RON petrol in a high compression engine.

In high compression engines, higher RON petrol is recommended for a more complete burning. When you're using a low RON petrol in a high compression engine, there might be chances that the fuel could not burn properly. Now picture a spark plug firing and the piston goes down and reach the bottom of the stroke. When it comes back up, there should not be any large volume of air left in the cylinder; there should only be air in the combustion chamber. But then, our cylinders may have imperfections on the surface, causing there to be small air pockets on top of the piston. Because of the heat and pressure from the incomplete fuel burning in the combustion chamber, these air pockets 'burn' and 'exploded', causing the knocking sound that you hear.

What causes knocking? Many reasons.

1. First of all as you mentioned, usage of low RON/octane fuel causes knocking in our high compression CamPro engines. Solution? Pump RON 97. But then our engines are tuned to run on lower RON as well to comply with manufacturing standards, and so that the export units may also run well at countries which does not offer petrol with RON higher than 95. So proceed to reason & solution #2 & #3 as this is less likely to be the issue here.

2. Second, your ECU may have been tuned to run too lean, which means there are more air than fuel in any single time during combustion. As I've mentioned just now, knocking happens when there are air in excess in the cylinder. If this is indeed your problem, a quick tune by the guys at CoSE to switch your air to fuel ratio (or AFR) to slightly richer (more fuel, slightly less air) will solve it.

3. Third, most, if not all of the cars that are manufactured today are tuned to run on low octanes (including our CamPro). And as such, these cars are often equipped with knock sensors to detect knocking in the cylinder. When knocking is detected, the ECU will retard the ignition timing to eliminate it. This is usually what is done to allow cars with high compression ratio to run on low RONs. It is less likely for the ECU or ignition timing to fail in this case (as you wouldn't be able to operate/start your car at all if it does), so the culprit here is a failed knock sensor.

If you're facing a very bad knocking issue with your car while running on 95 (which you shouldn't), then have the 2 items mentioned above checked (AFR and knock sensor). It is a must, as knocking may cause detrimental damage to the engine pistons, which in turn may require a engine rebuild at the end of the day. Unless, of course, you want to (and can afford to) run on 97 all the time.

I hope this clarifies thing a little bit for you. smile.gif

This post has been edited by xandras: Oct 30 2011, 11:15 PM

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