yo guys~ anyone have the lobang for the FB modulo kits?

hes just pointing u to a place where ull get even more and even better answers.

the FD owners in this thread all senyap already... the active ones are the ones who are more performance oriented

all engines are durable... but at 306k...id recommend u open it up and do a simple overhaul... mebbe the sleeves need re-honing /reboring and new pistons to fit into the sleeves... check on the bearings etc.

good opportunity to upgrade to B16B pistons also.. then can do ur timing belt etc 1 shot.

putting 81mm pistons into an 81.5mm bore will mean the need for slightly bigger piston rings.. which will increase the chances of the engine eating up engine oil and not giving a good seal for the combustion chamber

displacement wise...

B16A with 81mm is 1595cc
B16A with 81.5mm is 1615cc

lol...just ask her to take a picture of the numbers on the firewall and send to u la

difference between the regular FD and Type R

Yeah, the rear undercarriage diffuser, but that' considered cosmetic difference for me.

Yeah, but it's missing the self levelling headlights if you noticed, since it requires the lower control arm potentiometers that isn't available with the regular FD. The standard FD headlights also not motorized.

chassis stiffening is doable. I'm debating to do spot welding on mine end of this year. depends on time I have I guess.

Was it that expensive? I'm getting quoted 1K for entire chassis.

found a buyer? congrats!

So... in future when suddenly someone post on this forum he/she has a problem on a recently purchased 2nd hand FD it could be your car.. 

Change to what car?

Compression fittings for inlet and return hard lines x2 RM140
Various AN bends and banjos + braided hose - RM300
Fuel regulator (stock one not AN compatible)- RM450
Fuel filter 150ish.



Just for that fuel filter, I spend a lot to accomodate it.. FOR ZERO PERFORMANCE INCREASE.

The ultimate in stupidity, feel free to laugh at my mistake.

My friend using the K-series says he might be interested in buying the whole setup and convert his returnless to return system, so I hope it goes well and I can recuperate my costs.

what is the problem that u have with ur FD? FD1 or FD2?

ur car is brand new car?
i have heard of the steering rack problem for majority FD
u must have spend a lot during this 3 years 

the ES also boleh tahan ma 

Damn, I always wanted a del sol, but never found one with a working transtop.

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Added on September 20, 2012, 6:05 pmFor me, the best fun and relatively cheap (compared to the supercar category) car at the moment is likely the CRZ with the K20a, the best honda car NEVER made.

Or the Japan GT CRZ, powered by the J-series 3 litre powerplant.

Haha. Mine was working perfectly until last week.. It fails to open somehow.. So was seeking any Delsol owner around to recommend me a mechanic that knows how to fix it.. 

thanks...might consider them for the future..or actually mebbe soon hahaha
shah alam...can try search for them in mudah

ES is crap, even the last batch, limited edition one RX2... It's my DD, I agree that it is crap. 

Previous DD was City VTEC, also crap. But not enough $$$ to afford anything better, what to do. 

Your target too high for your budget.

Try like mine, old EG/EK chassis, brand new monotube suspension & bushes. Having new bushes and monotube suspension makes all the difference in the world. Heck the only time you'll find monotubes are in BMWs and most continental cars that are made by bilstein, this is why you find those conti's very comfortable at any speed. It's all in the suspension and of course, the weight, with civic chassis, it's lightweight means low speed damping is quite poor, not due to the shocks, but due to the car's weight.

A friend that drove my car says it drives like a new car, and steering also quite tight. You can't get distracted driving it, you move the steering a bit, the car turns, you move too much, oversteer.

Of course, this is not something people are easily convinced to do, since the price of monotubes is 10K thereabouts, with the cheapest being the locally made ones like titan and GAB.

Mine is also midrange brand made by Omnipower. I wish I could buy ohlins/motons/tein/bilstein/etc, but those brands are 10K plus plus, quite close to the amount I spent on engine. 

As for compression, I can tell you that no matter what people tell you, below 12static compression is the best option for longetivity, you don't get much knock, you also don't purge bubbles through the gasket like most 12+compression engines do. My friend's B18C is making 200hp, but he's also having air purged out through the gasket, requiring him to run an air seperator tank (bubble tank)

After rempit with my friend's K, I'm still in love with my B20B low end torque. It's just fun when you have 60-80hp at 2-3K rpm.