Thanks for the support CrossFire. It is much appreciated.

Today, worked on thermal zones and case cooling.

The fans in the original G5 are thermally controlled. There were two circuit boards that come with the case. Presumably these are the temperature monitoring circuits that Apple builds into the G5 case. While I would LOVE to utilize them, sadly, I am no electronics genius and so will have to go low-tech:



Sunbeam Rheobus Easy Fan Controller. Nice cos it is able to switch off the fan entirely. Now obviously the G5 case has no 5in bays to speak off. So I'll have to mod this too...



Happily the Dials just slide off. Removing some nuts and screws leave me with the naked PCB and Rheobus. Interestingly, Sunbeam saw it fit to include some heatsinks too...



That much done it was time to cut some acrylic in order to fabricate the shelves that would divide the G5 into separate thermal zones. These were done after careful measurement and cut 5mm acrylic with my trusty Dremel into the following three pieces:



The lowest shelf goes right at the bottom of the case. Note the slot for PSU wires to enter and here is where the cable clutter goes... I may paint this silver in the future but so far, it looks quite neat to be able to see the cables and yet know that they do not interfere with airflow at all.





The next shelf has the Fan Controller built into it:

Finally the third shelf will separate the PSU compartment from the PCIe Graphics Cards. This is why I chose the Aquagate Mini 8cm version. The 12cm version simply will not fit in the narrow space that is available. No matter. The X2 runs very cool anyways...





And with the Apple sidepanel back on, it all comes together...





Well, that's it for now... Further updates may be a little delayed thanks to the presence of some new distractions... Namely these two beauties. A double punch of the best games this year!

Tested OK with Corsair ProSeries (the tall ones with the LED lights).

Have to take out the PSU first though...

It's in page 5.

You will have to use a rotary tool (I used a Dremel Multipro) to drill holes that correspond to the size of the standoff screws that you intend to use. The size must be exact or your acrylic will crack.

Problem with this was that the fan would then be blowing amongst the wires, which is exactly what I want to avoid. The point is the completely free the airflow from obstructing wires.

Not sure yet. A cover will block airflow to the radiator. A nice AMD X2 logo would be nice though. I have a nice nVidia SLi sticker too....

Thanks!

I've a buddy who is the boss/co-owner of a Apple Service Center... I was in his shop to purchase an extension of my .Mac account. I saw the bare case and asked how much it would cost to buy and he offered it to me for free...

Well, there's always my homepage... That's what I use to host my pics anyways...

(link in the sig...)

I fully agree with you on this. It would much simplify the shelves. Will have to make a "slot" in the lowest shelf to accomodate the fan controller. Added advantage would be that the fan and power wires will be hidden in the lowest "wiring" compartment.

Sorry bout the lack of updates. The Raya break and all....

Have been making some modifications to the overall plan. Am switching mobos to this:



The DFI Lanparty SLi-DR Expert.

The reasons are this:

1. The positions of the PCI/PCIe slots will give me access to ALL the PCI slots with no loss of performance. I will be using my 7800GTX in SLi mode, and therefore, can leave the lower PCIe card withing the case. I only need to access the DVI connector of the upper card. This configuration will not allow me to run with multiple monitors, but since I'm using a 23" ACD display, I don't need to run multiple monitors anyway. Major advantage: Can now use my XFi AND a PCI wireless card and still leave a heathy distance from the SLi array.

2. Four sticks, 2GB RAM at 1T. (hopefully)

3. RAM will be cooled by the fan on the Aquagate radiator.

4. Four phase power to the CPU, Cooler mosfets.

Unfortunately, this means that my Mobo backplate will have to be retooled. It is presently positioned to align with the lower PCIe slot. I'll have to make another backplate to align with the upper PCIe slot. Need to drill some more holes.

Have also recut the acrylic for the PSU. It being my first attempt at cutting acrylic, the results were not ideal. Have now realized how to use the jigsaw to cut straight and curves on 5mm acrylic and have recut all the pieces again. Bottom, front, back and sides have been recut and this time all in 5mm acrylic (the sides were formally 2mm acrylic). No top, now that the second shelf will act as the top of the PSU.

Have also got hold of another 12cm CoolerMaster Aluminum fan to act as a intake fan for the SLi compartment. Have not decided how I'm going to mount it but given my affinity to 5mm acrylic - I think I'll make a vertical plate with slots to mount the shelves. Am still thinking about this one.

Pics to follow. At present, busy sanding the cut edges of the shelves to a smooth sheen.

I've not got it as a dual exhaust. It's in a push-pull configuration. The front is an intake, the rear an exhaust. At the moment it's running with the stock fans which while quiet, are of rather low flow. May need to change this out with a faster (but noisier ) fan if required. Don't want to put vents as that would quite ruin the idea of heat isolated compartments.

Have completely redone the acrylic work for the PSU. It is now all with 5mm Acrylic. Am using chloroform to join the edges. This forms a very neat bond but requires the surfaces to be a perfect angle.

Yes I know, I owe pics!

Thanks for the input btw.

An update... (sorry still no pics. Keep forgeting to bring the camera to work).

COMPLETELY redid the shelves and the PSU. The previous shelves/PSU acrylic was cut with a dremel. This not only took an awfully long time but also it was very difficult to get a 90 degree angle on the cut surface. Why is this important? Becos if you use chloroform to join the edges (as opposed to glue) you need an absoulutely flush edge in order for the bond to form. As you will see from the yet-to-be-taken-pics, the newly cut shelves/PSU have perfect 90 degree cut surfaces.

The way to do this is to use a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade. Use it at the minimum speed in order to avoid melting the acrylic (you MUST have a variable speed jig saw - I use the Bosch one). Advancing at just the right speed is critical. Too fast and the cut tends to run off the chosen line. Too slow and the acrylic will buck and shatter. Experience is needed. Cut some spare pieces for practice first.

Initially I tried using a guide to cut a straight line. Even used clamps to hold the acrylic in position. Eventually I learnt to stabilize the acrylic with my left hand while the right held the jigsaw. With a steady hand (which *cough* I have) you can do away with the guide and even circles and curves are cut easily.

Have completed the mods required to assemble the G5. Only thing is: DFI Expert board still not available...

Shelves are done (redone actually)....

In order to provide for structural integrity, Have integrated the fan mounts into the structure of the acrylic shelves. In essence, it is almost a case within a case. The fan mounts are 5mm acrylic and will be bonded to another 5mm acrylic base and top. I will be drilling screw holes into the base and top which will be then screwed to the shelf above and below the fan mounts.

Rather like a house of cards. But with the rigidity of 5mm acrylic and the integrity of screw/bolts to hold it rigid and minimize vibration/noise.

This plan will also obviate the need to drill holes into the G5 case itself. The aquagate radiator will also be mounted to the acrylic frame as you can see in these photos. Other than the screwholes, all other drilling/cutting is ready.

Only the mobo awaits...

Pizzaboy... I guess pictures are better at describing what I've done than words.... Essentially am using the fan mounts to provide structural strenghth to the acrylic shelves.

Bear in mind I have NO fan mounts on this case. None that I can use anyways... And nowhere to secure the shelves that are required to divide the case into thermally separate compartments.

The building blocks...



The lowest shelf. Note slots for PSU wires and for fan wire/ power molex. There will therefore be NO cable clutter other than beneath the lowest shelf.



The PSU sits on the lowest shelf. Note the fan rheostat and on/off switch have been moved to the front leaving the top free. Need to find another CM Alu 8cm Fan...



Middle shelf containg the fan controller. Note that the fan connectors and power molex for the fan controller is directly opposite a slot in the lowest shelf. The acrylic frame for the casefans act to support the frame above and below. Screw holes in the bottom and top of the frame hold it securely to the shelf.





Top shelf holds the 12cm CM Alu Fan to cool the SLi array. Nothing else in this compartment.

This...



But also needed the dremel for the screw holes, Assorted files of different shapes for finishing touches... and a sanding block to get the cut edges smooth and at the right 90 degree angle.

This post has been edited by MacDaNife: Nov 15 2005, 03:32 PM

Moved the acrylic array into the G5 case. Everything fits perfectly.

Now if only I could get hold of a DFI NF4 SLiDR-Expert.... This rig would be complete!

Well, still have to do the backpanel plate, and the front USB/Firewire/On-Off switch....

So guess it's still a work in progress. BUT it would be the primary rig while work continues... Praps I'll stick with the SLi-D board after all... hmmm...

With a jigsaw and a metal cutting blade...

First draw your planned hole with pencil onto the acrylic. Then drill a hole within the circle but NOT on the line of the circle enough to enable the blade of the jigsaw in. Then cut along the circle that you've drawn.

The trick is the speed of the cut. Not too fast, not too slow and a low speed on the jigsaw blade reciprocation. Takes some experience though... (as with everything in life).

Still have one DFI-SLiD in the WorkRig....

Won't have to buy another...

There are lots of em out there...

But what I want to do is preserve the IDEA of the case. Which is the seperation of the components of the rig into separate thermal compartments.

Guess this will have to be filed as another "not so useful" suggestion then...

Really?

I bought my jigsaw blades as a set from Ace Hardware. Tried with the wood blade at first. Lots of juddering. Switched to a metal blade and it cuts very smooth. I suspect the metal and acrylic blades are similar - thicker and rather inflexible.

I'll look for the HCS 100-1 blade the next time I'm at Jaya DIY. Thanks for the heads up! All my acrylic cutting is done though. Just waiting for the mobo.

May go with the Asus Dual x16 PCI-e board instead of the DFI... Nice benchies on SLi reported on this baby. Plus it has a neat heatpipe cooler on the NF4 NorthBridge...

An update before the weekend...

Still waiting for the mobo. Leaning more towards the Asus board now... Benchies look good for SLi-ed rigs....

Worked on the back of the rig today... The G5 has two rear fans which attach to the case via a plate with two fan grilles. Thing is, between the fan grilles is a plate which would block airflow of any fans which are placed anywhere but directly opposite the grilles. Try as I might, I could not arrange the fans for the Aquagate Mini nor the PSU to align to these grilles.. So it was time to get the Dremel out again...

Before:



Half-cut:



All cut:



Also cut out the case where the backplate connectors will be. I'll be making a custom backplate for the connectors (probably from 2mm acrylic) in order to maintain neatness.

Before cutting:



After cutting:





Even redid the mobo acrylic backplate.... Still waiting for the mobo...