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Photography The Official Nikon Discussion Thread V12, 1Darkside ! 1Nikon ! D800 rumor !

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geekster129
post Sep 26 2011, 11:58 AM

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Test your gear expertise

http://edition.cnn.com/2011/IREPORT/09/22/...irpt/index.html
geekster129
post Oct 2 2011, 11:14 AM

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All camera salesman should poison people like how celciuz did. brows.gif tongue.gif
geekster129
post Oct 9 2011, 06:28 PM

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QUOTE(piscesguy @ Oct 9 2011, 12:58 PM)
Oh really.. biggrin.gif

Here's another friend of yours.. smile.gif

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «



Added on October 9, 2011, 1:00 pm
Me too.. sad.gif
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Dreamy. smile.gif
geekster129
post Oct 11 2011, 06:39 PM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Oct 11 2011, 06:37 PM)
I like Vivid  wub.gif even for my portraits  laugh.gif
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So do I!
geekster129
post Oct 11 2011, 06:49 PM

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QUOTE(vearn27 @ Oct 11 2011, 06:47 PM)
I wanted to know the differences for technical knowledge, but not trying to compare as for what you thought of. For example some of Nikon's pro grades have Nano-coat, do Canon or Sony have anything equivalent to Nano-coat performance?

Something similar like Honda, Toyota and Mitsubishi have VTEC, VVTI and MIVEC technology respectively.

Therefore, anyone care to share the knowledge for lens comparison?
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I think the Nanocoat is purely marketing strategies, I believe there are so much more features to look into (newer) pro grade lenses, e.g. amount of glass elements, etc. These lenses no doubt will give extraordinary color renditions, bokeh rendition, sharpness, etc when used correctly. So called "premium" image quality of what you have paid for to give you the satisfaction in the outcome.

DISCLAIMER: This doesn't mean cheaper glass sucks. Just more satisfaction from more expensive glasses.

Does Nikon pro grade lenses have weather resistance?

This post has been edited by geekster129: Oct 11 2011, 06:52 PM
geekster129
post Oct 12 2011, 11:44 AM

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QUOTE(jchue73 @ Oct 12 2011, 11:13 AM)
Errr... That's because Vivid does not do a single thing when you open your NEF under Lightroom. So whatever set is just placebo effect in your mind. It's the same effect like using Standard or Neutral picture style.
I think it all boils down to surface coating / treatment. Where I work in a different industry, we do a lot of surface treatment on metals that we consider company secret / proprietary information. So chances of getting more info is close to non existent.
There is a point of diminishing returns. More elements can give a lot of rise to flare.
Got... Lens mug.
The prices screams of pro price.

I rather have non pro price on a no pro or pro grade lens.  biggrin.gif
Very envious seeing SD cards selling much cheaper than CF.  cry.gif
Usually CF is faster. I think fastest SD is only 30MB/s.
Really? Can you share which website is this? I never knew serial numbers of lenses and camera bodies are embedded in the EXIF?
Then when you put the 50mm on a DX body, some people will find that it becomes too "long". There goes the money spent on the 50mm...
Good quality as using it on the same system? No idea but people are using Nikon's 14-24mm f/2.8 on their FF Canon bodies and getting better results than from their own Canon wide angle lenses. Does that not answer your question partially?  biggrin.gif

You can use Nikon lenses on Canon bodies. Not the other way around unfortunately since Canon have bigger mount.
The 24-70mm f/2.8 can be a little long on the D70s. Better test it out first before the 24-70mm f/2.8 becomes a white elephant investment.
The trend that I usually see is using Nikon wide angles on Canon FF bodies where you can afford to have manual focus only using hyperfocal technique. Metering works fine. On something like the 24-70mm, AF becomes more crucial.
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Yalor... more like a syok sendiri effect...chimp at the viewfinder... feel damn syok... tell the models "wah sui ar!" "this and that", but go back home at LR.. eww!! I have to do RAW edit everything from scratch... sweat.gif
geekster129
post Oct 12 2011, 06:33 PM

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QUOTE(tatagal @ Oct 12 2011, 05:45 PM)
I bought from Digitalsmania, Rm3750 wif kitlens, good price or not?


Added on October 12, 2011, 5:59 pmact. i ma quite new to DSLR and I am going to take wedding photos for my fren, of coz is FOC!

The wedding is a dinner held in the chinese restaurant!
and i dun have a flash gun!

Is there any useful tips for photograph taking with kit lens for beginner?

I saw some website recommending to use AF-S with AF assist illuminator. Is it a better idea to take photos in A mode or P mode?

I have read the manual and try playing the camera using P, S, and A mode! It is quite simple to understand and differentiate S mode and A mode! But once it comes to P mode, I am abit confused what is the main diffrence compare to the other two mode (as for A mode, when you increase the F number, the shutter speed will also increase,so does P mode, in order to achieve optimal expossure)?
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Remember these few hints if you're shooting wedding dinner indoors (without flash)

1. Depending on your focal length, use correct shutter speed to prevent shaky photos. If you're shooting action, don't lose those shots to low shutter speed, you would rather bump the ISO so that you have a good shutter speed and have some noisier photos (this can be fixed in PP), than shaky photos that are totally irrecoverable

2. Get your WB (white balance) right. Usually the restaurant will have more yellowish lights, so it's better if you could set to a correct WB. I bet most shots are "normal" group photos, and people will argue with me to shoot RAW then fix later. Well, you will appreciate how much lesser PP will be done and speed up your workflow. Besides, any layperson don't really like yellowish photos and that will be usually the obvious "flaw" they comment.

3. When shooting group photos, try to use a smaller aperture (e.g. about 5.6-7.1) so that you can ensure a larger DOF to have everyone in focus.

4. For A mode (Aperture-priority mode), it's a semi auto mode whereby when you fix the aperture value and let the camera figure out the shutter speed to get you an optimal exposure based on how you meter your subject. Remember also that not just making the f value bigger (smaller aperture) will make the SS slower (to get more light). If you increase the ISO, it can make the SS goes faster as well, which goes back to tip #1.

1 thing I want to point out about A mode is that many beginners tend to become careless when the camera decide the shutter speed for them. When you use a flashgun, you can lock down the minimal shutter speed like let's say 1/60s for the A mode. Sometimes, if you're not paying enough attention, the camera may decide for you a very slow shutter speed like 1/15s, 1/20s, 1/30s while he/she may be zooming at the longest focal length, say 55mm on a 18-55 kitlens or 18-105 kitlens. I've seen a case before where the person using the DSLR was shooting at a very low ISO rating, around ISO200-400 indoors without flash, resulting very shaky pics and almost close to became unusable. So you have to be extra careful on this.

S mode (Shutter-priority mode) in weddings, well the common usage I can think of is during the Actual Day whereby you would want to do a panning shot at the wedding car as you would lock down to a slow shutter speed and let the camera decide the F value for you)

This post has been edited by geekster129: Oct 12 2011, 06:53 PM
geekster129
post Oct 12 2011, 07:28 PM

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24mm should be damn wide on FX, but 17mm on DX not so wide.... sad.gif
geekster129
post Oct 12 2011, 07:57 PM

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Hehehe... I'm kind of greedy at that 1mm extra. tongue.gif
geekster129
post Oct 13 2011, 04:09 PM

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QUOTE(Everdying @ Oct 13 2011, 03:55 PM)
so how many of u here are in this pic? tongue.gif

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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I saw a lot of "red rings"

geekster129
post Oct 15 2011, 01:23 PM

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QUOTE(hidden830726 @ Oct 15 2011, 12:53 PM)
I've joined. But can't find any class to join in KL le. Particular interest in Flash le.
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You can look out for Ted Adnan's workshop at his blog. He's doing a lot of flash photography workshop lately.

http://tedadnan.com/blog/


geekster129
post Oct 15 2011, 09:19 PM

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QUOTE(vektor_sigma @ Oct 15 2011, 05:50 PM)
Hi everyone, i got a D5000 and kit lens 18-55mm 3.5-5.6G.
In Manual Mode, when i zoom, the screen would shows the aperture varying according to the zoom. Before this, i never realize. So far i adjust the aperture by using command dial only (+/- and dial). As before, when i rotate the zoom ring, aperture would not change. Is it i never realize or my camera got faulty already? Anyone can answer me? Thanks.
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It's normal. The label on your lens which says 3.5-5.6G has a meaning. It indicates the largest aperture the lens is capable to be set at different focal length. This is called a variable aperture lens. Meaning depending on how much you zoom, the maximum aperture allowable will change as well. At 18mm, probably you can open as big as f/3.5, at 55mm, probably you can open open as big as f/5.6 only. Most Nikon zoom kitlens behave this way.

Unlike fixed aperture zoom lenses, like the 70-200 f/2.8, no matter what focal length you choose, you can open up as big as f/2.8, be it at 70mm, 85mm, 100mm, up to 200mm.

This post has been edited by geekster129: Oct 15 2011, 09:19 PM
geekster129
post Oct 15 2011, 09:56 PM

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QUOTE(Agito666 @ Oct 15 2011, 09:53 PM)
but the lens size also big right?  laugh.gif
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This:

user posted image

Compare to this?

user posted image


geekster129
post Oct 17 2011, 01:47 PM

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QUOTE(Agito666 @ Oct 17 2011, 08:42 AM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


old nikon p0rn ads  biggrin.gif
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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Seeing the photographer's Godlike skills of advancing to the next frame of the film so fast, that's what I called a Pro! thumbup.gif

At one part, the Nikon logo looked like the Nintendo logo..lol

This post has been edited by geekster129: Oct 17 2011, 01:49 PM
geekster129
post Oct 17 2011, 05:44 PM

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^
Looks quite f/1.8-ish to me...

There are some other pictures in that blog, some of them probably at f/2.8 maybe?

This post has been edited by geekster129: Oct 17 2011, 05:45 PM
geekster129
post Oct 21 2011, 11:36 AM

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I had bad experience with Fotokem too. I think it was around 7 years ago when my dad bought me my first digital point and shoot camera. It was a Canon Powershot camera, and digital cameras at that time can easily reach more than 1k.

The service and experience and not so good in terms of the pricing and the customer service. Pay by credit card and they use dirty tactics try to charge more... and free gifts need to wait somemore.
geekster129
post Oct 23 2011, 04:20 PM

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QUOTE(ikki9394 @ Oct 23 2011, 03:46 PM)
I see, so I should always zoom out more and get at least more than half a body so that i can crop it into my liking in post processing? Is that what u mean?
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I have the same remark. You could have shown more of the ladies body using the headroom on top. I think you leave too much headroom and made the pic looked a bit empty. How you crop the hands made the pic looked a bit imbalanced and not comfortable to the eyes. Psychologically speaking, the viewer might be curious about the part that is missing in the photos, they would like to see some of the hands which can contribute to the body language of your subject.

Having said so, it's not definitely wrong to leave some headroom (probably you want to use the rule of third concept and put the subject's eyes on the ROT points for artistic reasons). Like the pic celciuz posted, the headroom is there but at the same time, it still looks natural, because the photo looks "complete", however, if you leave the headroom and wasted it for parts of the body which you should show, then it's not so good.

This post has been edited by geekster129: Oct 23 2011, 04:23 PM

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