Assuming that you already have done wiring, use this for router in the closet. For AP, use 2 of these then add Raspberry Pi3 so that you can install the god-damn controller software alongside Pi-Hole for DNS-based adblocking.

What speed is your internet? For now, best bang for the buck would be the hAP AC2. Amazing routing performance. I use it as a router only, radios off. Slightly cheaper than that, the RB750Gr3. May struggle at 800Mbps if you're doing more than just default config.

As for APs, I just recycle my old wifi routers. The fastest one I have is the Aztech FG7008GR(AC) which has 4x4 5Ghz. Got mine for RM145 at Lazada. This is the freebie that Singtel gave away with the 500 or 1Gbps service. Not a particularly great router so many used ones available for cheap on the market but makes a pretty good AP. Someone else here got one for RM80 from carousell.sg.

The only other AP (& vlan switch for HyppTV) in my house is my trusty old RB2011UAS-2HnD, this serves the 2.4Ghz for the entire house for all the IoT stuff, Airport Expresses, older phones and laptops. It's also the RouterOS user manager (aka discount RADIUS).

Wifi is not a huge priority for me. Most important stuff are already on cable. I'm happy with 50-100Mbps on 2.4Ghz and 200-300Mbps on 5Ghz. My laptop can get 750Mbps+ in my office but no point because if I'm in there, I'll be using the LAN cable anyway.

Still have my eyes set on the RB4011 but for now the hAP AC2 is good enough. (and a lot cheaper)

As long as you have a cable, you can go PoE anytime. Either with a PoE switch or PoE injectors. At one time my RB750Gr3 was powered by the PoE from a hAP AC Lite. Just for fun.

If your cables are long, just make sure voltage don’t drop too much at the output end.

Yeah, you'll need a power source. The PoE injector can be anywhere along the cable. If the distance is quite far, you can put it somewhere in the middle.

You can calculate the voltage drop. Simplistically speaking, it's V=IR. What we learn in Sek Men. The R will depend on the quality, material, AWG and length of the conductor (the cable). Probably easier to do it experimentally. If you're using the same box of Cat6A for your house, just wire up a 10m length and test the resistance or voltage drop. That'll give you pretty good idea of what you can expect from your cables.

But for me, I just plugin 12V and see what comes out the other end. Not enough, plugin 24V. Most devices which accepts passive PoE (also known as fake PoE by another well informed forumer here) will be able to handle a range of voltages. Example: my Mikrotik AP accepts anything from 8-30V. UBNT is probably the same.

And then there's 802.3 af/at PoE. This one I never use before.

Please don't use cheap cat 6 cable or cat 5 which is not full copper.

Got heh fake poe i thought fake cables

Even though short distance 5 meter also cannot power up ap

guys, don't miss out the chance