They said they allowed Proton to use their 4B11 engine, never say Proton cannot modify or tune the car & engine in whatsoever way. Proton already meddled with the suspension, so what are the odds of them turbocharging the car once their R&D with CPS Turbo is done with?

---

Added on August 19, 2011, 9:38 pmBtw many Mitsubishi fans already farked Mitsubishi for letting Proton rebadge the Lancer.

On Castrol Magnatec and those popular lubes in spare part shops. Banyak fake in the market especially Shell and Castrol. Unless you have a reliable spare part shop to go to, if you get cheaper than market price, there might be a chance its fake.

One of the many symptom of fake lube is .....very fast degrade. There are 2 types of oil used generally for fake. Normal cheapo engine oil put into semi and fully syn....if kena this, at most, quality degrade faster and at 5K change oil, not that much damage, not that much protection either. What most worry is reused oil. These oil when reused...no addictives liao...go thru a process to make oil clear again like new but totally no addictives....engine wear, damange is almost immediate..

Tak ada lar...too expensive. Mobil 1 CAN last more than 10k, so does a few FS but the claim usually had some hidden cavaet. A true group 4 FS like redline was designed to last over 15k to 25K.....also with cavaet.

In the end, all lubes no matter what manufacturer use this term "We suggest you follow your owner’s manual recommendation".

One of the common critical cavaet is IT CAN LAST depending on engine make (really depends on what car you drive coz different engine make got different cooling system, lubrication function, etc), driving, weather, road, dust, humidity and traffic conditions.

Due to our Malaysian "severe" driving category and our so-call small and mid-size sedan engine design, I would not recommend 10K mileage. At most by 7K to 8K, should change. Personally I gonna change FS at 5K to 6K max to keep my engine performance at optimum condition (change before lube addictives even started to wear out). Yes, its more costly but if you cannot afford to change at 5K mileage for FS or semi, can always switch to mineral...engine will be even cleaner than using FS 10K change in the end.

It could be ur battery is not properly connected. As we all know our PE uses ignition coils, and ignition coils requires a constant current flow from the battery to the PCM to run. At any point where the circuit is interrupted or disconnected, the car engine will die off. But since u said that the air-con, radio was on, it could be a case of weak battery supplying insufficient current to the PCM. Ur best bet will be to check whether the car battery is properly connected and also if the battery is weak. It's safe to drive the car, but be aware that if ur battery disconnection is the case here, u may risk overloading all the electronic boards on ur car and fry them all.

yup but they all terminate at the battery terminal, one wire loose all also kena.

---

Added on August 24, 2011, 9:23 am
sam where you buy the spry foam, i have seen the thread before but i forget at what forum, seller also got teach how to spray inside the abc pillar with picture on the thread but realy can't recall at which forum liao.......

Agreed.. Probably because Proton cut cost here & there lah.. the 16 inch tyres somewhat feels too thick lah..

Yes, the battery is connected parallel to the alternator. If u understand how the battery works, then u'll know what I'm talking about.

In a car, the battery merely provides power to start the car & power the accessories such as lights, radio, etc when the engine is off. Like what u just said, after the engine has started, the alternator provides most of the power needed for the car. But the lesser known fact is that the battery completes the circuit, and it acts as a large transistor to absorb and regulate current spikes from the alternator. The current provided by the alternator is not consistent (think of how ur headlights dim when the compressor kicks in), and so the battery smoothens this out. Irregular power surges, as we know, are bad for electronic boards in the car (ignition coil, ECU, radio, etc). If the general electrical load on the car is more than the alternator output (more than 50 amps), the car engine will stall. The best example that I could think of is the compressor which uses quite a lot of power to run. When the compressor starts running, ur RPM drops a little, then goes back up to the normal idling RPM. Which is exactly why I wouldn't recommend installing a LCP that's too light or small as it may reduce the alternator's ability.

The PCM (Powertrain Control Module) draws power from the battery rather than alternator. If the battery is weak or faulty or the connectors are loose, the PCM may not be able to draw a constant power to the ignition coils, which explains the engine dieing off in the middle of the road. Although in that particular member's case I don't deny the possibility of a faulty PCM.

---

Added on August 24, 2011, 9:49 am
Finally come back liao? U go cheonging where lah till ignore this thread for so long?
Do not ever do that with PE if u're not willing to spend money to replace crucial e-boards on ur car.