Minor mod (increase acceleration)
1. Remove air filter. (Penang people can find me, FOC)
2. Reset carburetor air-fuel setting. (Penang people can find me, FOC)
3. Set valve tapette to 10 IN and 15 OUT. - RM30 labour charge @ New Bee Hock motor, Penang.
4. Change to 15-40 with 415 chain. - RM100

Major mod
coming soon...

acceleration + = increase by xx%
acceleration - = decrease by xx%

15-35 - 1st : 48kph,  2nd : 90kph,  3rd : 130kph,  4th : 180kph;  acceleration - 10.0%
15-36 - 1st : 46kph,  2nd : 86kph,  3rd : 125kph,  4th : 175kph;  acceleration - 7.8%
15-37 - 1st : 44kph,  2nd : 83kph,  3rd : 122kph,  4th : 169kph;  acceleration - 5.1%
15-38 - 1st : 43kph,  2nd : 80kph,  3rd : 118kph,  4th : 160kph;  acceleration - 2.6%

15-39 - 1st : 42kph,  2nd : 78kph,  3rd : 115kph,  4th : 155kph;  acceleration no change

15-40 - 1st : 41kph,  2nd : 75kph,  3rd : 111kph,  4th : 151kph;  acceleration + 2.6%
15-41 - 1st : 40kph,  2nd : 73kph,  3rd : 108kph,  4th : 148kph;  acceleration + 5.1%
15-42 - 1st : 39kph,  2nd : 71kph,  3rd : 105kph,  4th : 144kph;  acceleration + 7.8%
15-43 - 1st : 38kph,  2nd : 69kph,  3rd : 102kph,  4th : 140kph;  acceleration + 10.0%

After changing racing CDI >> top speed for 4th gear can add about 10 - 20kph.

*Note* The above data is an estimation of potential top speed for each gear, and may vary from bike to bike.

A. Change the idle air-fuel mixture setting 1st.
B. If still not satisfied, change the needle position.
C. If none of the needle position is good, change the jettings.

A. Idle air-fuel mixture settings
1. Air screw set at about 2.5 turns for stock airflow. Modified exhaust + air filterless can use 2 turns.
2. Idle rpm increase a little more than normal.

B. Needle setting
1. There are 3 ticks on the needle jet.
2. The lowest tick will give us good FC, as it limits more petrol to flow from mainjet @ half throttle
3. The highest tick will give us bad FC, as it let more petrol flows from mainjet @ half throttle.

However, highest tick does not mean best acceleration. If too much petrol flows into the venturi, the mixture will become too rich. This will decrease the power at high rpm. So, try different needle clip position and feel which one has the best results.

C. Jet size setting
1. Change mainjet to #107.5 (stock #105)
2. Change pilotjet to #22.5 (stock #20). If there is no performance increase, then stick back to #20.
3. Change mainjet to #110 + pilotjet #22.5. <-- this should be a good pair.

Anything more than #110 mainjet will make the engine feels heavy, bcoz the mixture becomes too rich.

The theory covers the relationship between the total areas of the brake pots (Note, its area not count), brake pads, masterpump, the rigidity of the brake hose and the property of the brake pads. The point of improvement is to look for the limit of the system and upgrade it.

1. Single pot is less prone to uneven brake force compared to multiple pots when in case one of the pot jams.

2. Changing the brake rotor is a start. But if you do not see improvements, that means rotor is not the limitation, and you need to change other things to do a stopee (Nose brake).

3. Change brake hose to steel braided, so it is less likely to expand and eat up the brake budget. Try this, wrap ur hands around standard brake hose, and press the brake you will feel it expand. Anymore you press also won't increase braking performance.

4. Change to DOT5 brake oil (normal 1 can, but easily overheat. I go hill run for >1 hr, DOT5 is mandatory)

5. Change brake pads, I use Ferodo imported by Racing Boy. Ask for original ones, one set front about RM30~40. You can see more copper strands on the pads. Other good pads use metal strands so u can see silverly metal strands.

6. Must stiffen front fork absorber, and add a stabilizer bar. Use 15W-20 fork oil, make it about 25% stiffer than stock. 20W-50 fork oil is too stiff bcoz the oil is too not lean enuf, the bound and rebound SUX, I feel like riding on a horse. The traction sux too, because front tyre can hardly grip on the road when going through uneven road (esp penang road).

7. Use ABS device (about RM100) <-- optional

For step-by-step and detailed guides on how to tune your monoshock / fork, please refer to the following link since the whole guides are too long to be pasted here. Many thanks to bro Aaron135LC for the link
Click Here

Click on the link to know more on how to break the barrier [Top Speed] of 2011 Yamaha 135LC HERE