Mozguard. Can get from Guardian. There are several cheaper local brands but I use the more expensive one coz our skin has to take care, use good wan...UK branded. Good for mosquitos, sandfly, etc..

However I only use that when going on hiking or beach. Wanted to sleep comfortably, not going to spray that on me....

For passive usage, like sleeping use those stick on sticker type wan...the smell will drive mosquito away...if one not enuf, stick few more pieces around your body...at least body won't feel sticky. Guardian also got sell. 10 strips per box.

Initially I also tot the bosch brake pad sucks big time. Then after it settled in after a few hundred km, its turns out to be ok for normal avg non rev driver.

Those used to 500C brake pad will feel brake pad tak makan langsung, but those used to standard 300C brake pad, the Bosch provides similar performance. Braking not too makan but it quite suited me somehow. Unlike the more makan brake pad, I doubt this brake pad is going to makan the disc plate, so usually no skimming needed even after long time.

Honda City original nissin brake pad provide exactly the same feel.

HOWEVER there are 2 cialat issue with this bosch pad...

1. Produced brake dust like nobody business. Those who like black rim, no need to change rim wan, leave it a couple of weeks, garanteed black as hell...only no shiny.

2. Noise...this brake pad was main suspect in lots of noise issue like creaking when start/stop, turning wheel while idle, etc. Not acceptable. So..if it turns out the brake pad is one of the cause of the darn irritating loud noises...it just have to go.

How to delete post hah...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 12 2011, 03:35 PM

Err..your car already weight more than a tonne without pasu bunga..

I believe you meant City 1.5 got rear disc brake...only pay over 35K more mah...cheap cheap..

btw. H-Line has disc brake lar...thats why I mentioned this pad performance still ok for non rev driver. It produced similar performance like City wan....at least with rear disc brake.

Should be ok kuah....my City got 4 points UR still performance nicely after 5 years, nothing spoil....yet.

My ex-Wira also got 3 points UR strut....also nothing spoil when I sold it....except engine retak.

That got me thinking. It might be better for non ABS brake system to use the lower performance pad. It might not makan as much but it will minimize brake locking.

Those with ABS don't have problem with lock brakes, so high performance brake pad more suitable kuah if they want more brake power.

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Added on July 12, 2011, 4:15 pmHaha...I know. Its actually a manufacturing defect there....at least thats what my mechanic said...prob becoz he's the one causing it when he open engine for overhaul years ago..

However I have to say, our PE handling very good liao... cornering is superb for stock. Would installing a strut bring any negative affect to its original "proton" tuned handling..

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 12 2011, 04:25 PM

Ya, I've tasted ultra racing bar...got 4 points in my City. Excellent cornering after that, since stock City cornering sucked. Wira 3 points improve greatly as well.

Abt the bend thingy on chassis, so far I don't think that will happen. If using celup brand, maybe...but ultra racing bar should be ok kuah.

However I need PE to be semi soft...so putting a UR 3 points might make it too hard liao. Main reason...our PE so many noise liao, put a hard strut there stiffening the chassis, lagi more noise will appear especially when going a lot on rough roads....happens to my ex-wira. Win some, lose some.

These are of coating are quite popular nowadays. Its a glass-based sealent that once harden can withstand at least 1.5 to 5 years without renewal. No need to wax anymore. Just wash car and it'll glow like newly polish. Rain don't stick as well.

I'm using Magic Glare, one of those glass-based sealent. One of the first to develop Glass-plexin sealent. 1.5 years to 2 years warranty without repolish. Car shiny after every water wash at home. RM480++.

My neighbour Forte's goes for another newer company, Sierra Glow in Subang. Glass-based sealent with 5 years warranty without repolish. Not sure if its better than Magic Glare but with almost similar price structure yet 5 years warranty, its extremely tempting.

I've been doing it for the last 5 years for all my 4 cars. Quite costly at 1 shot but at least for 2 years no need to polish anymore. Just wash and it will have glass like high gloss for those 2 years. Some more all swirl marks and minor scratches are greatly dim when I go for the magic touch (sort of scratch dimness and removal) to remove those marks occassional. Cost me Rm70+ tho at each shot but I only do it like once a half a year or even once a year. Car will look super high gloss again without those swirl and scratch marks.

Did renewal sealent every 2 years tho..got 2 centers in Klang.

The Sierra Glow in Subang offers 5 years warranty high gloss without needing renewal. Wonder if it really can last that long but their center damn pack...have to book weeks in advance to get a slot.

Best to do it to new car or paint coz it will sealed unscratch paint and protect against UV, etc. Provide a couple layer of long lasting sealent to minimize swirl, bird droppings, etc.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 12 2011, 11:55 PM

Hah...you wish. Chances are they will spray some silicon over window panel and declare problem solved. Yes, it is solve for half a day before it comes back...

Michelin PS3 is good. Quite silent for a performance tyre and excellent wet traction performance. Dry traction also good, all improvement over its predecessor, PP2. Only pricing cost quite a bit as usual for Michelin..

What noise? The creaking sound during start stop like an old ship esp during traffic light/jam or those sharp noises during braking?

Ask SC change, they charge u kau kau....all brake wear and tear, alignment, etc, better do it outside. No need change brake fluid, its just a pad only...

Creaking is normal !!!! Sure or not, I know those sound appears years later, only recently in my over 5 years old City and still not there yet in 2.5 years old Civic.

For normal auto, it usually appear in the morning, when its wet or something but for my PE, its creaking (yes...the kraak kraak sound), so loudly EVERY SINGLE TIME I do start stop, at traffic light, jams, at any time, wet or dry...

Still wondering if its the brake pad or not...so if anyone after changing brake pad, kraak kraak sound as mentioned by Xandras, disappear, please comment, so I can identify if it is the pad that cause it.

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Added on July 18, 2011, 11:00 amConfirm rear brake pad smaller wan...most cars with rear disc pad also smaller wan....

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 18 2011, 11:00 AM

Err..I doubt the creaking sound appear BCOZ the braking is working well. I don't face that with any stock brake pad I had with any of my other cars (auto). It might be the brake pad compound instead.

Normally during slow brake, there is no creaking sound. Of course, if let go the brake slightly while in D, can feel the grip is there along with the creaking. I don't mind the noise then coz I can feel the brake is gripping the disc causing the noise. Its the very loud creaking when you stop and the car body flex forward a bit that causes the irritation. Do that often in start/stop jam.

NCT5 is the oem stock for lots of cars. Honda included. Its average in dry and wet. Not bad, quite durable BUT once its worn to abt 50% or so, both its dry and wet performance degraded quite a lot. Strong noise start appearing, a bit slippery when running fast.

Overall tho, its hard compound makes it long lasting thus a fav for oem tyres. Its definitely better than those silverstone oem tyres, in my opinion.

However recent price increases for NCT5 makes it not quite worthwhile to get. Michelin PS3 is only slightly above that price and wet / dry performance is heaven and earth when compared with NCT5....PS3 heaven of course, PS3 is a couple of grade higher mah..

However I don't think PS3 got 60 height tyres, if I'm not wrong. The new Michelin XM2 is also around that price. So lots of ppl stop buying goodyear tyres and switch to the Michelin and others nowadays..

If new tyre, it takes a short while to wear in. So grip might not be that good. IMO, tyre squealing means grip loosen liao...if very new tyre, understandable as above. If not, either you corner too hard (remember out PE darn heavy wan) or maybe tyres loosing grip due to sand kuah...remember, you're not using high performance tyre ler...NCT5 is entry level.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 19 2011, 01:19 PM

Heard a lot on CC5 too.....maybe I used it on PE next time I change tyres...years later.

So far my PP2 and PS3 doing well on 50%. Mmm...one set of PP2 down to 70%, grip still ok but sometimes, it do slip, I can feel performance degraded quite a bit. Overall grip still there. Anyway I would have change tyres at abt 80% at most leaving abt 3-4mm tyre thread. Anything lower than that, brake performance goes down 70%...not willing to take that risk to save money.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 19 2011, 01:24 PM

No lar...I also don't dare. I refill 12 liter myself while going empty. Jalan 2 more days, then fill up FULL with my wifey's company fuel card. No choice have to balance the card with 2 cars. I usually pump up to 35 liter at most for full tank.

Last time wira goes dead coz fuel meter spoil and habis minyak. Result...damage engine, have to overhaul within 1-2 years. Not going to risk that anymore.

btw my PE special wan...once fuel light up, can jalan 10km some more. Then stop for 2 hours, jalan again slowly, fuel can go up wan...haha...refill itself. In the end, light up near PJ, reach subang. Goes all the way to Klang still no blinking. So more fuel increase themselves...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 19 2011, 01:32 PM

Foot is light..notice my fuelly either 65% or 50% highway drive. PE quite efficient in highway. I coast a lot, notice rev kaki rarely coast. AND in morning, abt 20-30km, I no on air cond coz 6.30 to 7am, still ok. Hit subang (from klang) only on. I think THAT save a lot.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 19 2011, 01:56 PM

Mine also auto ler...federal highway, how fast can you go with all those cars. Normally abt 100-120km/h only. Opening windows slightly won't affect much unless your those where every milisecond counts. For Malaysian road with all those dust, I never open window wan except if forget to bring smart tag. Generally once exceeding abt 100-110km/h, makan minyak. So I stay within 110km/h unless I go on Kesas, then only go up to 130km/h cruising.

However hit jam in Klang, Subang and KL. I don't tekan minyak much during jam, tekan, then coast a bit, so sometime lag a bit during start/stop but minyak ok lor..

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 19 2011, 02:15 PM

Keep your speed below 110km/h, sure you can get much better FC. If red lining car all the time, even most FC frugal car also will makan minyak lar...