Not sure the actual duration, but you can tell when the VR is working; There's some sort sound from the lens.

Some people love it; It give different kind of feel. I guess it's an art/creativity!

For me, it depends on situation.

Yea...
By default the D7000 jpeg sharpness setting is set very low; Did you adjust it?
If you shoot raw, you will need to apply sharpness manually.

The above picture you posted is jpeg process from camera? Any sharpness adjustment?

Your friend unit could have front focus or back focus issue; As I know, these sigma lenses are common to have this problem. Very annoying; This actually can tarnish it's review if the reviewer didn't notice it.
The bokeh of this lens is actually smooth and buttery.

RM3.9K for NEW???? That's very low??? As I know, it's selling around/close to RM5K street price? Nikon official price is almost RM6K?
I thought Kent bought 2nd hand around RM3.5K?

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Added on June 28, 2011, 1:56 amTrue, totally agree on the sharpness and focusing speed & accuracy, something which is very important.

As for the 24-70mm, of course not like after few years upgrade to FX; I mean, soon, like few months down the road or something like that; If so long, surely it's better to stick to something more practical and usable.



This post has been edited by Andy214: Jun 28 2011, 01:56 AM

Because I don't know when, that's why I said "if" and "soon". My thought is, because it wasn't long since he bought the D7000, I remember it was a tight budget situation as he was choosing/deciding on lens with the body; Then he got the SB900, and now the DX King, supposedly is it's close to RM5K; That's a big jump in short time, so I would suppose FX is possible in short time; Just a wild estimation based on the upgrades.

I think Canon also have more "saturated" colours or they call "colourful"? I'm not really sure, but I get comment from Canon users that the Nikon colour is a bit on the dull side.

Bro, don't worry so much about the noise; You won't really notice it if you don't pixel-peep (zoom in); Besides, did you notice you loss some details and sharpness when you apply the noise reduction; In the luminance slider, there is detail, which default at 50; You can preserve more detail by adjusting the slider, but the noise will be more apparent. Don't worry so much about it.

I think the picture you shot under? It looks dark; What you can do is try to shoot different exposure, use EV; Then compare the difference of the noise. You might see and learn more from the experience. But again, don't worry so much about the noise.

vearn27,

It's ok; There's no wrong or right, just choose which you think is best for your and your affordability; I'm just sharing some suggestion/opinion to you; No harm testing out other lens, you can decide how much it's worth; Everyone have different opinion and preference or how they value things (or how much it's worth).
Of course, field test is a different thing. If you have the budget for it, then go for it, especially if the price is a bargain!

As I said, if I can afford it and I have choice/option, definitely the DX King, no doubt; But for in budget, the other 2 works pretty well for it's price; After all, it's 1/4 or 1/3 of Nikon's price, unlike other models, which don't differ so much.

Totally agree with you; Don't worry so much about noise, unless one is shooting underexpose, limiting the ISO; Just try to get the exposure correct, properly expose.

True, it's all up to the person to decide; I'm just giving my personal opinion/suggestion; Didn't say not to get or to get which one, but I would highly recommend him to test out other lens as well.
As I said, the 24-70mm is "IF" one is moving towards FX "soon", one might want to consider investing on a cheaper "alternative" for the DX, such as the Tamron or Sigma equivalent. Then the rest of the budget can fund for FX body and FX lens. It's just one of the many options available.

Did you use the carbon part of the lenspen?

You can try breathe gently on the lens surface and then use the carbon part to clean it.

See the steps here:

after you buy make sure you experiment with it more first before you go out and shoot the bon odori. Wide parture gives you more narrow depth of field, you will get more out of focus shot if not handle correctly, and also when using focus-recompose technique.

Kitty lens still can get bokeh, just like N8. When you shooting close up, you will get more narrow depth of field.

As for shooting video, Nikon and Canon don't have in body image stabilization, it depends on lens. So iof your lens does have VR, then careful for shaky video. And using wide aperture for video, you can get nice effect but at the same time, you need to control your focus a lot more due to the narrow depth of field.

So, you will need some time to experiment and shoot with the lens before going for the event.

You can still use the 35mm, you can stop down the aperture anyway, e.g. f/2.5 or f/2.8 to get more DOF yet still have wider aperture than your kit lens.
The difference is your kit lens is more versatile having the ability to zoom and also the wide angle.

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Added on July 6, 2011, 1:52 am2nd battery is not necessary, unless you want to shoot a lot of video or you use the live view a lot?


This post has been edited by Andy214: Jul 6 2011, 01:52 AM

You need to be extra careful on such expensive lens; There's one guy in PM bought a problem unit, when he test everything was OK, later the problem emerge; When he send to Nikon centre, the repair bill was very high and there was repair record as well, apparently, according to the buyer, the previous seller opt for the temporary solution repair which makes it work for a short while or something like that; Not sure the details, but it's a good example of how bad it can turn out.


Video and using a lot of live view will use up a lot of battery; Unless you want to use wide aperture for video shooting, your N8 probably does a better job for "general" video recording, and more easy to handle and capture.

As for the N8 f/2.8, it's also because it's a wider angle lens and the smaller sensor, the DOF is more compared with DSLR; Thus, you get more in focus in N8 and less bokeh, unless you shoot in close up mode, which if you shoot your DSLR close up, you can get "more" bokeh as well.

Increase used in Single-Point Focus??? When taking portraiture especially, you should be using Single-Point Focus; Do you mean you have been using Auto Area (multi-point) all this while?

As for camera focus on the background, remember that camera don't see what human eyes see, it's uses set of algorithm and depends on how it identifies the subject, contrast, etc. If you're using letting the camera to decide where to focus, then there is chances the camera focus on something not you wanted because camera wouldn't know what you want, it just choose/determine based on which matches the condition best.

If you're standing quite far from your subject, and you're using AF-S (single point) and you focus on the eye (which in this case, you're far away, the focus point pretty much covers the entire head; There is possibility here than it will focus on the background depending on the condition.

Bro, AFA is depend on the camera algorithm, calculation, etc to determine. Camera cannot see what human see, so no matter how powerful the camera is, it cannot see like human (at least up to current technology); You can try use 3D tracking I suppose? Or use LiveView mode, use FaceDetection, which will detect face.
Using DSLR is different with point and shoot; and try to use AF-S so YOU control what you want to camera to focus.

About the article, that's what I mentioned to you, if you stand far enough, the focus point (focus bracket) can cover the person face, then there is chances that the camera will focus on the background instead of the subject.

You can look harder into the viewfinder and make sure the subject is in focus and re-focus if it's not; For such situation, you will need to review your picture after snapping to make sure the subject is in focus.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Jul 7 2011, 05:56 PM

No, I think you interpret or understand wrongly. it depends on your distance and focal range, if the area around your focus backet is the distant background, it is possible, read POSSIBLE, the camera may focus on the background instead. The focus backet is just a reference, its not of the focus point.

err... I think depend on how you handle the camera, DSLR is different with point and shoot. For each to use like point and shoot yet powerful like DSLR, people should look at mirrorless camera like Panasonic G, Olympus PEN, Sony NEX, etc. Try the GF2 or G2 or GH2, see how fast it focusing performance, touch screen lcd, touch focus, it's blazing fast.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Jul 7 2011, 09:40 PM

Yes, another reason is the contrast-detect focusing applied; With DSLR, if you use LiveView mode, you can have less focusing problem plus you can see it more clearly in your LCD; Especially for people who are used to PnS relying on LCD rather than viewfinder; When they use viewfinder, there like a total new person using camera again, composing becomes different, pretty much a lot of thing changes. One can be a pro using PnS, but when using DSLR, the picture can turn out worst than his/her PnS quality, composition, etc.

As sensor size, some (like Sony NEX series) have APS-C size sensor, while some others are using Micro 4/3 (Olympus, Panasonic).

The main problem as I see and experience before, is actually using the viewfinder and handling of DSLR vs PnS.

EDIT: Plus, viewfinder you don't see any effects or changes on the settings you applied, until you snap and preview it in your LCD. With LiveView (mainly PnS; DSLR one a bit poor in this area), you pretty much get to see the effects immediately, e.g. overexpose, underexpose, whcih part in focus, etc.
One major reason for people getting a DSLR expecting to get professional image quality, without understand why they need a DSLR, or what they actually need.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Jul 8 2011, 09:14 AM

OT:
This time cannot wear yellow, so fill the entire stadium with Liverpool color?

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Added on July 8, 2011, 4:45 pmThe Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 is good for it's price; Get the non-VC at around RM1250 (official warranty by Tamron Malaysia - 2 Years). Just make sure you test it thoroughly for back-focus or front-focus.
Forget about the VC which need additional > RM500, unless you think you absolutely must have it.
Another alternative is Sigma 18-50 f/2.8 MACRO or Sigma 17-50f/2.8 with OS; both these are more expensive than Tamron.

It's good because you get wide angle for group shot, useful for events. If you're using the 35mm, you will have problem shooting groups (especially big group) and or tight space.

Add a flash, it'll be good to go; That's why you need to consider is it really you need to spend the extra for the VC/VR/OS.


Ultimate? The price is more than double f/1.8 counterpart. For budget/hobbyist who don't earn a lot, that's crucial. For loaded people, or people earning money from photography, then it's different story.

The 50mm f/1.8 is very sharp at f/1.8, plus the price for it, it's amazing deal. Check PhotoMalaysia thread for many poisonous sample.
You've been warned....



This post has been edited by Andy214: Jul 8 2011, 04:45 PM

That's why I said, whether you really need it; If you know the rules of Shutter Speed, then you should understand how to reduce/avoid shake. With VC, the good thing is you can go below the Shutter Speed up to 4 stops. This is advantage for still subject in lowlight, you can use slow shutter speed handheld.

With prime lens, like 35mm, 50mm, 85mm, there's NO VC/VR/OS; Old lens have no VC/VR/OS, yet people take amazing pictures. It's all about knowing how to utilize your equipment and not too rely on technology.
Technology advancement is to "HELP" provide or "improve" on something, not to be abuse by relying on it. Technology helps to improve lifestyle, reduce our workload, makes it easier to do things. As with VC/VR/OS, it's give the advantage for people to use it when they want/need it, but it's not a "must". It's should become something that is a "must" until cannot live without it. It's something that is "nice" to have.

So, there's no wrong or right; If you feel it will help you, and you feel it's worth spending the extra RM500++ for the VC, then by all means go ahead; I have nothing against VC or non-VC, it depends on individual preference. Those prefer VC have his/her own reasoning to get it, and he/she feels worth it; For those that think he/she doesn't need it, and/or feel not worth the price, will disagree to get it; It'll never ending debate because it really depends on how one person feel, think and value things, there's no wrong or right here.

If you research on it, you may find comments/reviews that the non-VC is slightly sharper than the VC; then again, it depends how important is the "difference" to you and if you pixel peep. To some, the sharpness difference can mean a lot, some may say "ok (with the) lah". Again, individual preference. As for problems, there's also complains that the VC has more issues, but then, I'm not really sure.

If you don't have any wide angle lens, and you're on budget, tamron is a good choice for its price, providing f/2.8 from 17-50mm range; useful for events.
For events shooting, usually we try not to use too slow shutter (shooting people, etc), so VC may not be useful plus you need to wait for the VC to kick in first. But shooting still subject (e.g. wedding rings, objects), and in low light and no flash, the VC can come in handy for you to use slower shutter speed handheld.

If you feel worth to pay the extra, RM500++ to for the VC, then go ahead;
There's always 2 side of the coins:
1. Didn't get the VC, later regret when you feel you need it, should've paid the extra money and get the VC.
2. Got the VC, later feel you don't really utilize it (plus you need to wait for the VC to kick in), you regret for spending the extra money, you could've invest on something else (e.g. Flash).
Well, it depends on your budget, if you're low budget (don't earn a lot of money) and this is a hobby, the amount difference is a lot; But for those who can afford, they would probably just get the VC version.

So, no worries, test it out and decide yourself, most important if you are satisfied with it.
Btw, there're Tamron lens that made in China and those that made in Japan; look out for it. Get official set (with 2 years warranty from Futuromic) for less hassle and better support.

There're wedding photogs using the Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8; In the end, when you look at the picture, most (if not all) people can't tell it's taken with which lens anyway. More importantly, is the skill, technique, creativity, etc.

Anyway, non VC still can take still subject, you just need to understand the shutter speed rule.
Just in case you're not sure:
If you zoom to 50mm, the actual focal length for crop sensor is 1.5X, so 50mm X 1.5 = 75mm; Thus your minimum recommended shutter speed must not be slower than 1/80. Try shoot at faster shutter speed. If you use slower shutter speed, you need to hold the camera very steadily.
NOTE: It doesn't mean you can shake the camera la, just that holding it properly, the recommended shutter speed should eliminate the shake problem.

See your budget, the test out those lens within your budget.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Jul 8 2011, 10:55 PM

If your shoot properly with the non-VC, you will get sharp image; The result as claimed by reviewers out there is the non-VC is sharper than the VC.

For the VC version, the advantage is you can use slower shutter speed and shoot (provided you wait/let the VC kick in first); The VC will help you stabilize the image, in the event of camera shake (depend on how much shake and your shutter speed); If your shutter speed too slow, you will still have problem.

Hard to explain in words, it's best if you test it out; Go to a nice shop, the sales person will tell you the differences and show you the differences and how it works. I think you can understand and see a clearer picture by seeing how it works.